ooops your right I got mixed up a little. When he said "roller" I was thinking either the top or the bottom. I guess I should have read a little closer.
Do what mds2106 said Its alot6 better that oem.
did you take the carbs apart all the way?? maybe some junk still in there? here try this....Take the carbs off and tip them upside down and on there sides to get all the gas out. Then take some fuel line (couple inches or whatever you have) and slip it on the gas inlet. Then blow with your mouth (not compressed air) into the hose. slowly start tilting your carb upside down as your blowing. It should stop passing air as your simulating the floats raising. if you can still hear air passing through then take your bowl off and remove the floats and clean out the....shit brain fart.....the valve that lets the gas into the bowl. I know the name just having one of those moments. by the way this will work so try it its a fast and easy way to trouble shoot. Let me know how it went if you decide to do it k
oh I see...so they say their 28's but there really 29's? stupid me I thought since I bought them from a guy used and he said they were 28's I thought he taper bored them cause my calipers read 29.2mm..........Hmmmm interesting.
ok thanks. I was just wondering if I were in the ball park. And the reason why I thought you or any of you would know is because this is the "HQ" and im sure at least a few people out there has ran this similar set-up before. Anyway thanks again for all the help.
im running a 350 with cpi's, ripps cool head, vf3 reeds, K&N's, race port, and im always running at the beach. 52 pilot-160 main-and needle on forth clip. what do ya think?
im running a 350 with cpi's, ripps cool head, vf3 reeds, K&N's, race port, and im always running at the beach. 52 pilot-160 main-and needle on forth clip. what do ya think?
My banshee is a 1990 so i figure my on/off switch just wore out but then again I was just wondering what the chances are in that happing or maybe something else? its always on so I just pop the clutch to kill it. has this happened to any of you before?? should I fork out the 107 bucks for a new one from yamaha? or just find a used one? :shrug:
well i can tell you that I just went through this. I would stick with oem on everything except for the rears it seem to me that maier front plastics suck but their rears are pretty darn good. I bought all mine through http://www.cascadeinnovations.net/ I live only about 20 miles from them so I didnt have to worry about shipping. The reason why I bought maier rears were for 2 reasons....they were 40 bucks cheaper and they dont have any warning lables rivioted to them. You might want to call to double check but id I remember right it will cost you about 440.00 for everything. fronts, rears, tank, and radiator.
I live only about 20 miles from Cascade innovations (http://www.cascadeinnovations.net/) And I go in there about twice a week since Ive been doing a rebuild on my shee. My eye keeps wondering over to that dyna f.s ignition sitting on the shelf but im having a hard time bringing myself to throwing down $325.00 bucks. Should I?? Is it really that noticable of a difference??
dont do it man. you might open up a can of worms in you electrical system....electrical problems to my are the worst. Oh and about you question, Im not sure of the difference.
this sounds a bit familiar to me........do you have a cool head?? if so it is very possible you maybe lost a o-ring. when this happens exhaust will pressurize the cooling system and spit out your overflow. also causing your compression to drop. How do I know? cause it happened to me twice. Yeah that was a bummer!