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Bump for a nice guy who is running out of ideas. Daj...any chance you have any ideas here???

Have you used it yet. I have been looking at one, but I would love some feedback first.

When you get your tap started you want to back it out a little. Basically you want to run the tap in about a full turn and then back it o half a turn. That way the shavings don't get bound up in the threads. Taps that small actually break fairly easy, and then you will play hell getting it out. If you start to feel excessive resistance, back it out and start again.

My local Les Schwab does them for $8 a wheel. Old one off, new one on. I have done them by hand, but it is a bit of work to break the bead.

Thanks..I will give it a try.

Can someone clue me in on how to post a picture? When I uploead the file it says that it is too big for the space allowed. It won't even post a single picture. Do I need to convert it to a different format???

They are 68mm. If your interested shoot me a pm with your address and I will send you some pictures. These things look like brand new. They never even got broke in completely. If I am too high on the price then feel free to chime in, but I think it is reasonable.

I'm interested too. Pictures would be great.

Will do...thanks.

I just sent them your way. I can't seem to get them up on here, so if anyone else is interested in pictures, let me know.

These are bare cylinders and head body. No domes, studs,or powervalves. I am keeping everything as spares for mine. We had them on my wifes bike for 10-15hrs of ride time, and took them off because it was too mutch motor for her. These are 421 cylinders, ported by Trinity. They are flawless, they look the same as the day I opened them new (maybe a little dirty). I bought everything as a kit, but I would think that $700 for both would be fair.

I am located in Lake Stevens WA. but I spend alot of time on the coast. I just havn't found anyone around here that I would trust. I know this guy is not much of a Banshee guy (unfortunately) but he has been building fast four strokes and riding himself for years, thats always a plus. I would like to talk to a few people that have had motors built there. I appreciate the feedback. If anyone knows of a good builder in the Seattle area please share.

I can't remember off the top of my head. I will have to check his card. I have been getting parts from them for years while on vacation, but I have never had him do any major work. They do have a in house dyno, and seem to have a good reputation with the locals. I have seen some of there bikes run, and they are definately fast, but unfortunately I haven't had the chance to talk with anyone that has had a motor built. If anyone else knows anything about them I'm all ears.

Does anyone have any experience with this guy as a builder? Sesms likes a stand up guy. He quoted me a good price for a 720 kit for my wifes Raptor.

The Cheetah PV have a main jet that screws into them. I assume that changing that jet will have some effect on when the valves open. I think I am going to play with it to see how much effect it has. I am curious what other folks have found. Any imput would be appreciated.

You modify and reuse your stock one. It works fine but the pro-design kit is much cleaner.

Are there springs on the air screw? I guess I haven't had them all the way out yet, but I didn't realize there was springs on them. Possibly I called them the wrong thing. It' not the idle screws, but the air screw that you fine tune your pilot with. Thanks for the replies, I like the idea of a small dab of non drying sillicone, maybe #2. That would probobly make any adjustments later a litter easier than the locktite.

I have the same plate. Your on the right travk.

Anyone have feedback on this? every couple days of riding I have to even out my air screws. I was thinking about maybe a dab of blue licktie on the threads. I was just wondering if anyone has had the same problem.

The penitrating oil is a great idea. I soak it overnight and then put heat to it with a propane torch (rinse it off first obviously). When it starts to cool, smack them out. The heat makes a big difference.

What is the best way to cut the threads to do a plug chop. I have used a couple methods and I can't help but think that there is a better way.

Idle adjuster/slide stop screws have a spring between the screw head and the carb. Maybe your talking about a pilot screw.

Blue loctite and a tourqe wrench. Thats the right way to do it. You can't trust an impact, you have no idea how tight it really is. It could be under tourqed or over. Neither is good.

I aggree with these guys when it cones to the cub, not a trail bike. The Cheetah pv does really well on the trail. But it is overcall. And in the sand or drags it makes great power. In my oppinion it is a motor that you can use aywhere. It is expensive though. Your looking at the 4 grand range to do it right. Then of course you will never be done.

White smoke generally means coolant. Do your pipe tips smell like coolant? Hows your coolant level? Does it blow white smoke out both pipes, or just one?