addicted

Most of your seals will have a concave groove on the inside. You want to pack that groove with waterproof grease. Also I clean the mating surfaces of the case halves down with contact cleaner or grease remover and a q-tip. Most guys probobly think its overkill, but I like to make sure the yamabond will adhere well. It's just like preping something for paint, imo.

Well, 95psi is prety low. It may be time for a rebuild regardless. What domes do you have in the coolhead? Have you pulled your main and pilot jet out and cleaned them? It doesn't take much to plug the pilot. Look in it and make sure you can see through the holes. It could also be your float level. It may be pushing in more fuel than it can burn. If you have a clymers, it will explain how to do it.

Thats strange. I thought the threads on the puller were intentionaly softer than the threads on the flywheel. I have stripped 2 pullers, but never the stator. As stated above you can use a 3 jaw puller but I haven't seen it done with no damage.

Botom only.

You can just about put a cub together for that.

Well said...

I would say thats a dealer only part. Or maybe you can get them from Hot rods. Vito's might also be a good place to check.

Anyone else running atf. Just curious. I can imagine that it does shift nicely, But can it really lubricate enough.

Well. its been awhile since I've had mine apart but I know for sure they only go in the lower case. They do not make a complete circle. Unless I'm mistaken one goes on the right side of the crank and then one on your rear shaft and that is it. There is a great thread on here giving complete step by step instructions with pictures. Do a search, your sure to find the info you need.

It is supposed to leak between cylinders. Thats why you only pump up one side when you do a leakdown test. You should be able to find the where the air is escaping using soap and water. Good luck.

If it's sucking air into the pipe it's most likely a reed.

Good luck if something with the warranty if something does go. I've experienced hardship with warranty companies. Also you may want to check your paperwork. I have bought a few 2-strokes brand new, they all came with a warranty and I was offered the extended, but neither would cover a 2-stroke motor. Especialy with any mods.But i aggree, with your mods you should have no problem with the strength of your crank.

If a crank seal leaks on the clutch side it sucks gear oil, if it leaks on the stator side it sucks air. I do a leakdown test every time I put a 2-stroke together. I do it on the bench before it goes in the bike. If you do it then, you can catch a problem before it causes harm and it only takes few minutes. IMO, a leakdown tester is a must have tool for engine assembly.

I'm with you. I have one on my shee and my raptor and love them both. I will admit there was an adjustment period, But it only took a couple rides to get comfortable with it.

I'm beting your problem is jetting. What do your plugs look like. Also I would look for an air leak, spray your carb boots down with carb cleaner and listen for change in idle. I would also ditch that boost bottle. They really don't help much (if at all), and the weight of them is prone to causing intake boots to crack. That's just my oppinion though, everyone has one.

Good idea

I had the exact same thing happen a couple years ago. Exept I only had 4th. I ended up with a gear welded to the shaft (cant remember wich one). Maybe you will gey lucky.....

You definaltley sound rich. There is a great thread in the jetting section. Jetting takes time and experience. I find that you get the best results by tuning one circuit at a time and making small adjustments.

I'm curious to see others oppinion on this. I use a very small amount on both sides of the gasket. I actually rub it in to the gasket. I can't see how this could hurt other than making dissasembly and cleanup more work. But Ive done it this way for years and I have never had an air leak in that spot.

As far as your parking brake goes, you have to keep that circuit complete. The easiest way is to cut the wires and just splice them together. unless I'm mistaken thats all you have to do to replace the perch.

In addition to the caps you have to drill and tap new idle screws in each carb. Right now the knob on the TORS is how you adjust your idle. Thats why the kit is so expensive it comes with caps, adjusters, drill bit, tap, idle screws, and springs. In response to your question, I don't know of a twist throtle kit that doasn't require removal of the TORS.

It makes alittle bit of diff. Didm't seem to be much. I've been told that it makes it a little smoother. I didn't really notice any change there.

In the post you made AFTER the one you are talking about here, you said "i'm not getting spark to my left cylinder at all". It was that statment that made me think maybe it was still a spark issue.

It's brand new.

First of all, thanks for the info. I have an inline temp guage and after 20 minutes of riding fairly hard, it will get up to 250deg. If I run it really hard out in the open it will stay about 200-220. Still too hot. I have also tested the tem. guage with a thermal laser, and it checks out good. Up until the time it overheats it runs really good. Fast, responsive, starts first kick. I am going to take your advise tommorow and test the system.