addicted

Yes the cheetah does have the plugs inthe bottom and they are in tight, and sealed with sealant. I started with 19cc domes, thats why I'm running the race gas. I switched to the 22's to see if it would run any cooler. It didn't seem to make a diff. I also switched from the pro-Design impeller to a new stock one, to see if The water wasn't staying in the radiator too long. That didn't make a diff. either. So I have switched back. And when I did I put in a new gear, bearing and seal. I havn't preassure tested the system though. Is there a tool I can buy for that. I appreciate the ideas. Keep them coming please!

i use a sillicone based lube. Simmilar to wd40, you can get it at any parts store. I started useing it for the same reason your describing. But I spray my chain every time I put gas in my bbike.

0 on my plate. My dyna has been reprogrammed by trinity, but I'm running on the stock curve, because of the heat.I'm also running 22cc domes with 110vp.

Have you pullued the plugs and actually checked for spark? The reason I ask is because you said when you switched the plug wires it was still the left side not firing. So the plug wire that was on the left must have had spark. Then in your last post you said the left had no spark at all. I think you need to determine if you do have spark at both plug caps. If so, Then you should clean your carbs and check your reed on that side. once that is elliminated you may want to do a leakdown test to see if you leaking air.

Anyone have any tricks to verify that the coolant is flowing corectly? I have all the right parts to keep it cool and I'm still fighting heat.(pro-design impeller,in-line cooler, pro-design radiator, engine ice, jetting looks real close) I also did a leakdown test with no leakdown in 15 minutes.With the engine running the coolant is vibrating so much that I can't tell if it is flowing. I'm running out of ideas so any help would be appreciated.

Ricky stator makes brighter bulbs, but I' never tried them with the stock stator. 23champ is probobly right.

Could also be electrical. Resistance builds with heat. That could explain why it runs good until it gets hot, Then runs better when it cools.I have had that experience with both stator and coil.It sounds like your jetting it not quite either but that might not be the only thing wrong. You can test the stator and coil using an ohm meter. the specs are in Clymers. Check it while the bike is cold, and then again when it starts to act up.

FYI, the boost bottle really does nothing to help performance IMO. It does however cause your intake manifolds crack and leak due to the extra weight.

Be careful while tapping the holes. Taps that small break easily. You want to screw the tap in a half turn then out at least a quarter turn, so the shavings have a place to go. Other than that it's a peice of cake.

oil pump?

I'm not sure what the comppresion should be on your setuo, but the important thing is that both sides are within 10 % of each other. You also want the motor to be at opperating temp., hold it wide open and kick until it stops building preasure. If things check out, then I would do a leakdown test. Cracked intake boots, leaking base gasket, crank seal.

What kind of stator do you have? I have the same motor and was having the same problem. Trinity told me it was because of the Ricky Stator. It was brand new and ohmed out correctly so I didn't beleive them but after not being able to find the problem, I bought an Yamaha stator and the problem dissapeered. Trinity says that motor will not run right with a Ricky. I don't know why but whatever.

There are many companies that you can send your shock to, and have it rebuilt. I used Denton Racing. They revalved and resprung it to match my weight and riding style. I dont remember exactly what I paid, but it was resonible. Much less than buying a new one, and it works great.

This can be a sign that your basket is worn. Did you inspect it well when you had it appart.

with 795 series both rings are the same. I don't know what difference it makes, but they say the writing on them should point up.

Are you sure your not overfilling the radiator? cool, it should be at the top of the fins, no higher. Do you have a temp. guage, so you actually know what temp. your runing?

Both. It really makes a difference, even with stock jugs.

Thanks for the reply and heads up on your thread. It sounds like it's a common problem on the Hinson, but why the stock one? Mine is not hitting on the face, its hitting on the outsid of the basket. so the groove goes all the way around the circumfrance. Good info though because my fix is getting a Hinson setup and now I fix that problem before hand.Did anyone ever get a reply from hinson?

I was changing my oil tonight and I spotted metal shavings in it. So I pulled my side cover and found that the outer edge of my stock clutch basket has been hitting a spot on the side cover wich is also stock. It has ground a groove about 1/8 of an inch deep in it. Its not hitting the outer wall of the case, but one of the gussets that are cast in. I will pull the basket off tomorrow and see if anything is loose, but I just wanted to see if anyone has come accross this.

I think water boils at 212deg. Antifreeze with water weter is even higher. If its boiling your way too hot. Have you checked flow? Did you advance timing with the rebuild? Is it jetted right? Did you retourqe after heat cycles? I wouldn't right it until you find the problem. Heat is the worst thing for break-in.

WELL SAID!

I would not tip it up. The shavings will fall to the bottom and be much harder to vacume out. I would split the cases and do it right if it were me. You can have it out, fixed, and back in in one short day. Doesn't seem worth the risk.

There is a switch that is connected to the perch, right where the e-brake cable was connected. that switch must be closed or your bike will act as you have described. I just cut the two wires down ubder the tank and spliced them together with a water tight connection. Hopefully this is your problem.

I have ridden a t-rex once in the dunes. It ran verry good, but it didn't seem to have as much power as the cheetah. Definatley a smooth powerband, and fun to ride. I was told that the t-rex is just older technology. Just hear say though. One good thing about the t-rex is it is not nickasilled. So if you grenade a piston while on vacation you can get it machined at any qualified shop and your off and running. As apposed to sending it out.

Actually, Trinity purchases a bare casting from CP,and they do all of the cnc work. CP does the machining on only the cubs. Trinity sells the Cheetah to other retailers. If you buy a cheetah from any retailer, it came from cp, to trinity, to them. I got this information from both Harry at Trinity, and Calvin Pollet a CP. They also machine the cheetah head body.