Satsol67

Great Post!!!

What I did was found an old popup camper that was trashed and stripped it down to the frame, replaced the floor with plywood. Cost me 50 bucks for the trailer and another 50 bucks for the wood. Just a suggestion.

Then maybe the springs are. Might need the stronger springs. Try the ATF and if it is still slipping then its something else. I dont know if the ATF makes the clutch grab better ( which I doubt) I also used the bel-ray 80 in mine. The reason I said about the bands is because mine did the samething. It was fine until I got into 5th or 6th and went WOT then it would slip like crazy. I replace the metal plates and fibers and never had a problem again. Its not like your mods are that extreme. Now if you had a drag port or something like that then I could see going to an over ride.

If your clutch is slipping good chance its the clutch bands that are worn not the oil. The bands are cheap I think I paid 40 bucks at rmatv.

Try using an impact screwdriver and if the philips part is to stripped out take a dremel tool and cut a flat spot then use the impact driver they should come right out. Just use the impact to break them loose and unscrew from there. You can buy the stainless set from ebay or if you have a nuts and bolts place around your house take the old one and match them up. If you dont get the philips kind again then you wont ever have to worry about this again.

That was the first thing I thought it too. The Ricky Stator. If you run out of things to try you might want to put the stock timing stuff back on to see if it runs better that way you can eliminate that as a problem. I know lots of others were having a hell of a time with the RS stuff. Just a suggestion.

Good to see you are getting settled in. Do you happen to make swingers for other bikes besides the shee?

I finaly got that coil and kicker that I needed to bring this 86 350x atc back to life! This thing is going to be a blast to ride. It almost feels like you are floating. I do have a question about it if anyone care to help. ( yes I know this is a banshee forum so dont rag me to hard for posting this here). It sounds like you can here the timing chain going around while its running. Is that normal? With the shee I didnt have to worry about that crap. I adjusted the valves so thats not what I hear. I just wonder if the adjuster or the chain itself is bad or is it just me because I am not use to the sound being its not a 2 stroke. Thanks, Ron

All I can get now is cell pics ATC00 ATC01 ATC02 ATC02 ATC04 ATC05 ATC06 ATC07 ATC08 ATC09 ATC10 ATC11 ATC12 I hope these didnt come out to bad

Here is the instruction right from K&N's site. http://www.knfilters.com/cleaning.htm

here is another place to try. http://www.switchboard.com/

Most of the stuff is there but it needs to be completely redone. I just won a few things of ebay yesterday so I can get the motor to run. It goes in all the gears so thats a good sign even though they had the front sprocket welded on. Its sad when a person will do dumb shit like that. I guess if you dont have a bolt that fits just weld it. Its not like that will ever need to be taken off. DUH! I didnt have a chance to snap some pics but I will after work today. I found the service manual for download so that will save me a few bucks and the guy I won the coil and kicker from has alot of parts that I need so maybe this wont be to expencive. I figure that even if I put 7 or 8 hundred bucks into it I should still be able to sell it for a grand or little more.

Well its nothing like the shee I had but for 150 bucks this will hold me over till I get another shee. Anyways I picked up a 1986 Honda 350X Atc for 150. It needs alot of work but I like project bikes. It needs a few things until I can tell what condition the motors is in. I think as long as the motor/trans and frame is in decent shape everything else can be fixed. ATC's is what I grew up on my 2000 shee was my first atv. I miss my shee like a bitch so maybe this will help for now. If anyone cares to see it let me know and I will post some pics. Ron

I would say to check your TORS. Unplug the black box under the gas tank and see what happens. If thats not it I would pull of the carbs and shoot come cleaner through them and while they are off check to see what the jet sizes are. If you think its a problem with the air filter pull it off and see how it runs without it. ( I dont mean ride it without one just test it to see if it gets better. Hope this helps. Also That K&N is a good filter I ran it one mine the entire time I had my shee and never had a problem. If you ask me the foam ones arent as good. Of course like anythink else you have to take care of it.

Correct! If it were me I would just pull the head and look.

Also make sure you put the slides in right and on the right carbs. Your buddy might have also had the carb tops off and didnt put them back right. Just something to keep in mind.

If you would like I can look it up on AllData and take a snap shot of a blow up of the tranny. What year and model. Duh s10 p/u just like the title says. I will look it up if you would like. Ron

Here is a dumb question. When the motor locks would it cause the tranny to lock up too? ( I wouldnt think so but thats is why I am asking). I would think just because the top end locked you should still be able to pull in the clutch or take it out of gear so it would still roll. He is saying his tires are locked up to. When you take her a part you will find out if its just the top end or much more.

I would check the compression to just to be sure.

If thats your ring gap that could be the problem. If I remember correctly ring gap should be something like .012 to .018mm but then again I have been known to be wrong.

What is your ring gap? Are you sure you used the right pistons??? If ring gap and pistons are right see if it is leaking around your head. It can only be a few things.

Not to say this guy at the shop doesnt know what he is doing but if you are at 64mm now why go to 65mm if your cylinder arent messed up??? Why take more off the cylinder then needed?? If the bore is good dont go to 65mm go smaller like .020 or .030 over. making them 64.50mm or 64.75mm (I beleive thats right). Do go any bigger then you have to. Saves life of the cylinders. Plus with a port job if dont right will have plenty of power. Just a suggestion.

I have found the best way is to take them to a local shop (if you have one) and let them measure them before you order your piston kit so you know what size to get. Once you get the pistons take them along with the cylinders back to the shop so they can bore/hone to fit. It sucks to guess at the piston size and be wrong. (trust me I have done it before.) Just a suggestion.

Its all good. I guess I have been a little thin skined lately with the shit that going on here so if I came off like an ass for that I am sorry I just wasnt expecting this to turn into a joke like it has. I was told about it and I wanted some opinions. From now on I will specifiy if my questions are not for a shee I just thought it was obvious. Why would anyone put nitrogen in an atv tire??

Well if you took the dick out of your mouth long enough and read the post you would see not once did i ask about mileage for an atv. As for posting a non banshee/ATV question in this forum if you do any reading here you will see that there are lots of questions asked here that dont have anything to do with shees or atvs. So if your not clear maybe you should ask and not assume. I posted this with FireHead in mind I read alot of posts by you and you clearly are very smart and its a shame that you play into this childish crap.