speed-racer

If your running stock yfz tierods, they will not fit after swapping the spindles. The knuckle does not stick out as far on the yfz spindles, which requires your tierods to be longer. This results in more bump steer. Unless your running a shock with more travel than the yfz shocks, the angle is not a big deal. The stock yfz shocks will limit your travel before the ball joints bind. Your hubs will not work either. I posted the differences between the two hubs in the suspension forum.

Im pretty sure it would be way too wide. Someone can chime in if I'm wrong, but I think the 450r arms are wider than the 450, which are already pretty wide on a banshee because of the frame width.

^^^^^Good info.

Did you put new plugs in it when you dropped from that huge main jet?

Start with 165 and work your way down. Look at your plug, it will tell you everything you need to know.

You had the engine out right? Its possible that it didn't ground to the frame. If not, you will have no spark. As far as the cylinder and head not being conductive enough.........it better be, since thats where the plug is grounded when the bike is running. It may not be the problem.....but its a simple check to see if theres a ground problem. If the head is not grounded to the same spot as the battery (the frame), it will not spark.

Run a ground strap from the battery ground to your engine and then see if you have spark. If not, you have ignition problems.

CR High bend

I've read tons of posts concerning the differences between the YFZ 450 and banshee front hubs, spindles, calipers etc.......but no one seemed to have had all of the information (not in one post anyways). BenBB seemed to have figured out most of this a long time ago and some of this may be a repost....I just wanted to compile all of the info into one thread. I have ran the YFZ a arms and shocks with Banshee spindles, hubs and brakes for the past year and am in the process of swapping to the YFZ spindles. First of all, I've heard some people say that the YFZ spindle will give you more travel while others claim that the shock limits the travel to be within the limitations of the factory banshee spindle. After running both I can tell you that my shocks did limit the travel in a way that the YFZ spindles would not gain you any travel. Unless the shock was removed from the lower a arm you would not see an increase in travel. However, the ball joints appear to sit at a much more desirable angle with the YFZ spindles. Second, the banshee hubs cannot be used on the YFZ spindle without machine work. The hubs can be found for 40 bucks on ebay so machine work would not be worth the effort. The banshee and YFZ share the same bearings and seals, but the banshee hub is too wide for the YFZ spindle. You cannot get the castle nut on and the brake caliper will not bolt up without modification. Also, be sure to get longer bolts if you plan to swap to YFZ spindles as they are aluminum and much thicker. Something that I did not read in earlier posts (I might have read over it, surely someone has posted it) is tie rod length needs to be longer for the YFZ spindles than it does with the banshee spindles. I had enough adjustment to use my existing tie rods, but it was close. I don't have an accurate measurement of the difference, but it is enough to me mentioned. This may help with bump steer, depending on the new tie rod length. If I remember correctly they were shorter than the lower a arm with the banshee spindles. I'll have to double check that later. All other parts interchange. Not sure if there is much benefit to the swap though. I bent a spindle and had these laying around so I thought I'd give it a shot. Sorry for the long writeup......hope this helps somebody out. Mark

You have any tie rod ends?

You're a tool.

Couldn't wait till tomorrow. Just checked with rosin solder and got .042". I am surprised, there was actually .007-.008" difference between solid and rosin core solder. I also used a smaller diameter solder this time, which may have something to do with it. Still missing .012" somewhere, but that could be in my previous measurements of the head as some of the methods weren't the best. I guess I should stop hijacking this thread......sorry guys.

No, same number every time I measure it. I am using solid and will feel like an idiot if thats the problem. I'll check it tomorrow. Motors all good though.....runs strong. I figured it was assembled this way since day one and just left it. I still want to double check it, I would like to use something other than the factory base gasket. Need to know which numbers right before I make that call. They're kind of tough to trim for the transfer ports.

One ohm is not a short...........I couldn't help myself. volfan, what type of PLCs do you work on and where do you work? I'm in the same line of work. Never gets boring.

Word.........if you can push start it and it runs fine, check your compression before you waste your time on everything else. Then while your rebuilding the top end you can clean your carbs and change your plugs. Works better in that order. Let us know how your compression test goes.

Carbs, depending on portwork.

Are you talking about K&N pods for the factory carbs? If so, they will not fit the 34s. Any of the sponsors that sell filters should be able to get you what you need. You can get many different angles, take that into consideration when you buy filters.

I wouldn't run 10 paddles with that setup, should consider 8 or 9 paddles. You would be surprised how well a 8 or 9 paddle hauler will hook. A stock swinger will need less tire than an extended to hook.

I have a similar setup......4 mil long rod with 34mm pjs, a dune port and T5 pipes. Works very well. I keep thinking about going to CPIs, but I love the broad torque curve.

Lost mine in the sand at Little Sahara in Oklahoma. Hard to push start one in the sand. Thats where I learned an alternate method. Put it in 6th gear and have a friend lift on the grab bar while you turn the rear wheels by hand. Works well with paddles too. Starts way easier than you would think.

Project engineer for an automation and material handling company.

Funny.....Jeff (whom I do not know and have not done business with) doesn't create topics like this about you. I would not have known about FASt if it wasn't for this site and word of mouth......thats just the way things work. GET OVER IT. Let us know when you decide to leave the HQ so we can all celebrate :beer:

Yep, you can get them on the inside now.

I run the Boss intake with T5s and 34mm PJs. Very close, but it works as long as the outerwears fit tight. My last set were a little big for the filter and got burned.

If your worried about mechanical issues, a compression test will point you in the right direction.