speed-racer

Anyone store their Banshee standing upright on the grab bar? It would save a ton of room and I can't see it hurting anything as long as the transmission fluid doesn't overflow. I made a storage device that the axle and grab bar rest on......it has lockable swivel casters and is easy to use. Works great and I've used it for about a year. Just curious what everyone else does to save space......or am I the only one with a cramped garage? http://img389.imageshack.us/my.php?image=b...orage001mi1.jpg http://img512.imageshack.us/my.php?image=b...orage003ej6.jpg

It's a left side.

Thanks.......I would hate to buy new hubs if I dont need to.

It is a Toomey. I will compare it to my bike tonight and post which side it is.

Nobody needs any of this? Make an offer if your interested.

Nobody? $40 shipped?

I have YFZ450 a-arms and shocks with the factory banshee spindles, hubs and brakes. I have a set of yfz450 spindles that I would like to swap over. Does anybody know if my banshee hubs, rotors and brakes would swap over to the yfz450 spindles? I thought that there were some issues with this swap, but can't remember where I saw that.

Set of stock carbs off of a 2005 banshee. Were only used for 1 year. Includes the stock cable, however the plastic housing at the split is broken. Still works, but needs replaced. $50 shipped.

Sorry, I had troubles with them......looks like you can only edit a post a few times. I had to post a new topic. Admin.....feel free to delete this topic.

I don't have the silencer.....sorry

Two chrome T5 pipes, both are left side and one is damaged....the other is in perfect shape with normal discoloring of the chrome. I also have one intermediate pipe, not sure which side it is though. If your interested let me know and we can figure it out. $25 for damaged (could possibly be fixed) and $95 for the undamaged and $15 for the intermediate pipe. Two K&N pods w/o outerwears for 34mm carbs. Have some wear from the stock airbox tabs. They pushed indentions into the filter....can be seen in pics. $15 One K&N pod for stock carbs w/ outerwear. $10 All prices include shipping Filters1 Filters2 Filters3 Pipes1 Pipes2 Pipes3 Pipes4 Pipes5

Two chrome T5 pipes, both are left side and one is damaged....the other is in perfect shape with normal discoloring of the chrome. I also have one intermediate pipe, not sure which side it is though. If your interested let me know and we can figure it out. $25 for damaged (could possibly be fixed) and $95 for the undamaged and $15 for the intermediate pipe. Two K&N pods w/o outerwears for 34mm carbs. Have some wear from the stock airbox tabs. They pushed indentions into the filter....can be seen in pics. $15 One K&N pod for stock carbs w/ outerwear. $10 All prices include shipping Filters1 Filters2 Filters3 Pipes1 Pipes2 Pipes3 Pipes4 Pipes5

Do a leakdown test before you start changing things. Has it ever started well with that jetting? If your bike really needs jets that size just junk the stock carbs, install some PJs or PWKs and enjoy. Either way, I would still do a leakdown test before anything else. So many people try to jet around mechanical issues and just waste hours of time.

Yeah, I want to replace one with a fog. How do yours do with two fog beams as compared to your brothers?

Word!!

If you are going to put something on the threads, use teflon sealant rather than loc-tite. You'll just end up pulling the studs out of the cylinders next time you take it apart. I wouldn't worry about since it stopped. It is perfectly normal to, and you should, retorque everyting to spec after a heat cycle.

I've never had a problem with mine (even reused it a couple of times). I can't think of anything that would have caused it to go. I'd just replace it and any kit should do.

What he said ^^^^ Looks like its time to tear it down.

I run the same.....100 watt in one and 50 watt in the other. Awesome lights, but they don't have a very wide spread. That being said, they are a ton better than the factory pattern. I also run a 200 watt stator though. I still think that these lights would be nice with a couple of 35 watt bulbs on the factory stator. You can buy the lights at Wal-Mart for less than $60 each and they look good too.

Just fuse it and it will be fine. The battery will only supply as much amperage as the devices will draw.....if there is nothing on the harness, there will be no current draw. However, if there was a short to ground, you would melt it in a hurry without a fuse. As mentioned earlier, a multimeter will do the job.

This is actually the static compression ratio, which means nothing about the fuel an engine will require. The dynamic compression ratio is what will dictate fuel needs. Calculating the DCR is a little more complicated and requires everything mentioned above as well as the rod length, stroke, and port timing. While an engine is running, the compression ratio will never remain constant and you can never acheive the static compression ratio. Static compression is what you would have if there were no valves (or ports on the two stroke). Changing the valve timing in a way that creates more overlap (drag bike) is really what dictates the need for a small domed head. All of this information together is what determines fuel requirement. I agree that a compression tester is not good way to determine the fuel needed, but it is good to compare to that of a stock bike (or one with a known dynamic compression ratio) to get an idea where you stand. Every guage will be a little, and sometimes a lot, different. Hope I didn't sound like an ass, this is not an attack on anyone. I just wanted to state that a compression test actaully can be useful. Mark

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ What he said

Try running a ground strap from the frame to the engine. If the engine is at the same potential as the coil, it will not fire. You can check for spark by grounding to the cylinder head and then to the frame.....there should be spark at both.

I'll be there.....anyone else in the Fort Smith area is welcome to join us.