NOS_350x

Depends on where you want your power, where you ride (rpm range) and the size of the track. When leaning the PTR's are SUPER nice, no burnt pants. But if your on a big track you might want the power band higher in the rpm range, CPI's seem to be a big choice among flattracker. I have been trying a set of Power Pros, they seem to have alot more down low than the cpi's but not nearly as strong down low as the PTR's Im not sold on the power pros yet.

The schedule is up, I dont see quads listed? They running them??

When i raced i went through and indexed my tires after each night of racing. The studs will pull out some. Even the guys with the cheap tires had to do this. Rubbing on someone in a race also make them come out much more.

Price?

Before i got the a-arm's i didn that. Pull the valve stem inside the rim (where air is) on the caliper side of the rim. Drill the new hole, on the outside and pull it out. Works good for the stability, handling sucks though Here are pics

Can i get pics, interested in both yours.

I need some aftermarket shocks. Pep, works, elka, Fox floats, something like that, let me know what you got and your price. I might even give shaws a shot if the price is right.

How about someone that has used him for something evaluate his work?? This site (more than others) seems to be quick to judge, just because hes not a big name you cant trust him?? wtf? I have worked with him on a few things. Kenny is a good guy, Although i can comment on his porting, i have yet to see it. The override i got from him seems to be working just fine.

The bike is lowered.

We can use an unliminted amount of studs. Before the race i was told i would need nearly 2000 studs to be competitive. Im around 1200 studs. Front and rear. I guess maby if i added more the other guys could keep up then.

there is the stud pattern for ya. There is my main event win.

Ok, Im Going to try and add as many answers to the questions here as i can If you have more questions or i didnt answer soemthing please ask again. This was an ICESpeedway.com even We can only use studs purchased from them, They are Kold Kutters or something like that. I got them 5/8" long so they wouldn't go through the tire and if i wanted i could remove them and run the tire in the dirt. I have to give all the credit on the holeshot to the Hoosier tires and the stud pattern. Tomorrow I can get you pictures of the stud pattern I used. I spend alot of time thinking about the best way i could get the most traction the design i came up with is what i think is the best. Also just about everyone i raced with ran Turf tamers, I think i have a better pattern in my head for those too. BUT im not going to let that one out, The pattern for the Hoosiers ill show yall. Another thing that helped alot was tire pressure, ALOT of the guys there went checking it, but i noticed big differences in different pressures, my tire pressures where 6, 8, and 10 PSI, You can figure out what tires had what pressure in them. Now i got a pm about the suspension, Im going to answer it in here. I have Triple Rate PEP shocks on my shee. I agree with you, You dont want to be too low, or too stiff you are loosing a TON of traction by doing both those things. The first 2 nights of the ICE racing i used my full 1/8mile dirt setup. It was hooking too early in the turns and pulling me towards the wall, So i dropped my ride height 2" from that setup. I left the LR weight at +20 LBS. The shocks are just a very good adjustable STD length shock. If i crank the spring adjusters all the way down i can jump and stuff but when i want to flattrack i get about 4-5 inches of down travel and 4 inches of up travel. IMO this is key to get the traction needed with the powerband of the shee, and the Uptravel helps when in a wheelie like situation getting on the gas you can still control and turn. BTW, This weekend i did 2 more races after a 1800 mile drive. 4th ice race ever for me and i got 1st, the second night i got 4th starting in the 3rd row after jumping the start. More pics and videos tomorrow.

It didnt take me too long to pick it up. Ice Speedway came into town and Hoosier gave me a set of there new nobbies to run. Won both my heats that night, Was on the pole for the main. On the start i got the holeshot with a good lead. Came around and the race was redflagged. In the restart i lost 1 cyl, Got 5th with a 1 cyl shee.

Class "C" traction only or nobbies? Whats the surface Clay? Gime the dates, I should be able to make it one race at least. They have a pro or money class?

I have had this happen several times. All the fiber, wears off several of the fiber plates. and instant no go. I dono what causes it but ive had it happen 3 times to me.

SOLD!!!

I try to not use those as an idle adjusment. Put that at 2 turns out, make sure the slides close all the way, then screw with the AF mixture screw and Pilot jet. I see alot of guys using the choke knob to get the bike to run, But seems to me that those same guys are always turning and twisting it.

Im going to pick these up. Just waiting for a call. To figure out the local pickup.

If you run regular pistons, have the head cut, you dont need a spacer, If you dont get the head cut you need the spacer.

Yup, Sold, Will ship tomorrow because today is a holiday.

Pipes and silencers 275 shipped, people keep saying they are going to send the money but never do, COMON GUYS, paypal is easy.

You want $150 for a used set of pistons?? Or is that for the cyl's?

Anybody intrested?

Will Fox, PM me your email address, Ill contact Turbo1 And they will hook you up Trust me. The turbo1 pistons have been holding up very well and diffrent from what most say (that have never used them) are a good quality product. The cost does not reflect the product Wiseco keeps raising prices just because they have the name. If people would just try new things they would realize that they arnt the only option.

Silky smooth power, and they rev out damm good too.