NOS_350x

There are some 250r frames that look just like that, I think it was LRD that made them. but im not positive.

My actual problem is right now the mounts on the spindles for the banshee calipers is bent. And my brakes will not lock up now with the amount of lever travel with it mounted to the handlebars. Both mounts on each side are bent. I dont get it. So i figured i would look at different options. Cam want to sell those front hubs lol. I am definitely going to look into the YFZ setup.

With fully adjustable a-arms why cant i get them setup properly?? Im sure that i have see guys with honda spindals on a banshee a-arm, but i could be incorrect.

Sweet pic How are those Ventura races coming along?? Have they came up with a pro payout yet?? How many racers are you getting this year? Looks like your setup is getting perty good too.

its all about how you make it, I have 6 acres and a 300ft drag strip, 10th mile oval, tt track and Mx track. they all fit together fairly nicely. Ill see if i can figure out how to get a pic from Google earth of it.

I have had several of my customers have bad dealings too. The items pictured are NEVER what is shipped, the pic is a part he sold 5 years ago. and he still uses the same pic. Just stay away from him if you can.

Has anyone tryed this? Im parting out a trx250r and im thinkin of keeping that stuff to get the better brakes for the flattrack bike. My biggest thing is that i would have a honda front bolt pattern then. I want to keep the Yamaha because of the rims i already have. But has anyone done this before??

Pm,ed an offer/bump

Ok, i actually looked it up and its a 1/5 mile simi banked clay oval

I dont know how big exactly the track is but Saturday night i ran on an oval that is considerably larger than a 1/4 mile ive ran before. My times where right in the 13-14 second range.

they are on ebay right now. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=260654551046&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT

Running Rigid you loose a ton of traction. You need some body roll, And with a properly setup swaybar in the turns you get alot more traction. With good shocks you can get the low ride height you want and still get the proper weight transfer. Running rigid will also add alot more stress and twist on the frame eventually leading to cracks. I always see new riders at the track try it, and it never last long. impossible to hook up and keep straight on the track.

Ya mine was a bit different, Yellowish, Greenish Jello type substance Full in both bowls, In the banshee and one in a Tecate 3wheeler. This was sitting several weeks.

I will never use Sunoco again, I ran VP C12 forever, let my local shop convince me to use sunoco from them (sponsorship stuff)after the race the bike sat for 2 weeks, maby 3, When i went to start it up for the next race it wouldnt start. Come to find out the whole bowl of both carbs, was completely full of a jell type stuff. Something reacted very badly with that fuel. But i never had a problem with any other type of fuel.

I have a set of t-5's with DG silencers If your interested i can get pics.

It shuldnt take much to make your MX bike setup for flattrack. First off find out what the limit is,Some tracks are 50" some 52, and some 48" This will tell you how wide of a-arms you want to get. Get your a-arm/ rim combo to put you right at that limit. The problem with the banshee is most the stuff is setup for drag racing, which IMO its not a real good setup to run a drag engine for a flattrack bike. You want a mid/top end power with a ton of overrev. Well at least thats what i like. I like having a ton of overrev, That way at the end of a straight, i dont nesissarly have to shift. Just let it rev and rev some more. As for the shocks, You would be much better off wiht a good set of PEP, or Axis shocks over 300ex or something of that sort. Those are just a cheap easy GET-R-DONE way. It works but isnt ideal. I personally have PEP tripple rates that i can adjust to any height i want. As for gearing, I personally run 17-39 This is on a stock bore/stroke shee, dynoed at 59hp. For the engine work, Just find a good builder that can build a enigne that suits you, And follow there direction.

Hopefully yall have better luck with them than i had....

Here is a little update, Hmm wait im going to go take some pics. be back in a minute Ok, back with a pic I tore apart (split cases) and found several things Im not sure what the problem was directly but upon teardown i think the crank seal was in backwards. I also had a bearing explode, the one right next to the crank seal on the tranny side. The cases are JACKED up where that bearing sits. The bearing spun in the cases. Im thinking that under a load the crank would move, side to side or up and down because of the bearing and that was causing the pressurizing of the tranny/clutch area. Im really not thinking the waterpump has any part, I have NEVER had any water in the oil.

Pm sent Here is a pic of the pieces i have already purchased.

If it where a crank seal it would suck the oil, not blow out right????... Well at least thats my experiences. The vent hoses arnt clogged because if i do plug one it will spew out the other. If i plug them both it pressurizes, and when i take off the oil fill you can hear the release of pressure. Can we say Banshee Enema?

Well in my last 2 races ive lost about 3/4 a quart of oil during the race. Now this is a short period of time. Why is my tranny/clutch area pressurizing? any ideas?? I just changed my waterpump seal figuring it might be that even tho i wasnt loosing water.

Its not just drag bikes. I Really, Really liked the pvl on my flattrack banshee over the stock system. I am not currently running one because i went through about 5 of the stator type coils.

I need eather a lockup cover BUT i would rather get the piece that you use to convert your stock cover. I have the Lexan cover and i have the billet piece that can unbolt but im missing the part you weld onto your original case. If anyone has one OR anything that would work for me please PM me a price shipped to 93662. Thanks Nick

You have it backwards, The shorter the belly of the chamber the more topend, The longer the more bottom end.

Pm sent