jbooker82

x3 guess buy first then ask questioins later

You let those big drifts get a couple days of meling and freezing on them. Then you will be able to drive right up on them like a sand dune. Also take off your rear skid plate if you have one. You wont get hung up as much.

And the FMF Turbine Core II's are probably one of the best free flowing spark arrestors. They do not use any screens that hamper flow. It spins the exhaust forcing the pices of carbon to break up against the out side wall. A spark arrestor has to ethrie trap pieces of a certin size from exiting the silencer (screen style) or it has to break them up in to small engough pieces. I went from Power Core II's to Turbine Core II's when I was running FMF SST's and didnt really notice a change in power or sound. I would just get the Turbine Core 2's and be done with it.

If you want to beat your friends YFZ then you will need to port the cylinders.

Looks like they are air strikers as well.

Or you could buy theshee's banshee for 3500 http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=138346

I would start by ditching the 2:1

Or if the seller you bought it from doesn't know anything about it, that can be a good indication of a stolen bike. Otherwise they would have at least 1/2 a clue.

Do a compression test. Tear the carbs down and clean them. Not trying to be mean, but a machine with a wet no2 system shouldn't really be in the hands of some one who is afraid or doesn't want to tear into the engine.

Crappy crank = Cheap cost. Unproven crank = Cheap cost. It is your cash. Buy it and hope for the best. I will stick with a 4 mill Hot Rods crank from FAST for $435 or a M&M crank.

That is funny and true. Ask loco what he thinks of vitos and their cranks. I also like the argument to run a regular or short rod crank so you can continue to run a standard piston. You should go a head and order extra standard pistons to keep on hand when you start breaking skirts. You would think that we are still having to bore the cylinders to 66mm and run blaster pistons in order to run a long rod crank.

With a kryptonite chain. 16mm hexagonal links. They better have powertools if they want to cut it.

Because the back side is the throat of the carburetor. It is where the restriction is. What good would the front (air box) side of a carb the size of a pie tin be if the throat is only 28mm? When measureing carbs you measure the back side (motor). 28mm carb has a 28mm throat.

$8 more bucks you can get a RK GB520EXW ring chain. It has a tensile strenght of 8500. I run them on them on my banshee and kenz built 720cc raptor. They hold up really well. Dont forget the sprockets and buy a good front sprocket not a 10 dollar piece of crap. http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/productDetail.do?navType=type&brandId=235&webTypeId=36&navTitle=Drive&webCatId=9&prodFamilyId=3591

I keep one in my tool box so if you blow a hose you can cut the bad spot out and resplice the radiator hose back together. I run my banshee up to 225-230 deg F. I dont go any hotter than that. Most of the time it runs in the 180-210 range. Temps measured in the upper radiator hose right as the coolant exits the head.

Anything is fast when you weigh in the 100 lb range. I am sure they are fine but I wouldn't buy a set when there are clearly better choices out there. I would take them over OEM Yamaha pipes though.

Post a price if you would like to sell.

I would probably use the plastic reed stuffers. Just port match them to the intake.

Yea the crank is junk. He bought a vito's crank it seperated, sent it back and they trued and welded. Then he put an adress lable and sent it to fast for a 2nd oppinion before he ran it. Got it back from jeff put it in and had it seperate. 1 crank seperated twice. A weld wont hold it if the crank webs are machined to large or the journal is under sized. That isnt something you can really check with out tearing it clear down.

I just put a gasket between the cylinder and reed, and then a gasket between the reed and intake. I have not had a problem. You can use a tiny bit of yamabond to help seal it.

Did you cut your factory intake boots? You need to cut the rubber flaps off the back of the factory carb boots. I think I know what pice your talking about. Cascade Innovations sells a square metal pice that keeps the reed cage together. They call it a reed retainer. The Vforce 3's come with a plastic pice that snaps in to the reed cage. It looks similar to the flaps you cut off the back of the carb boot. If you take that pice out then the reeds wont stay put. So cascade has some square metal pices that go in its place. Most guys run the plastic pices if they have an intake that has a round hole (like the stock carb boots) or other billit intake. I run the metal reed retainers because I have a boss racing intake and it has a large squre opening on the back side. http://67.199.65.66/cascade_innovations/newlook/store/store_View.cfm?STORE_AREA_ID=13&store_dept_id=83 Boss Intake

With dual keihin carbs on gasoline you just as well take the jets and needles out to see how it runs. That would make about as much sence. I dont thing guys running methanol run that large of a pilot jet.

I guess it sucks having old pm's come back and prove you wrong. I would say you name is already in the mud and righfully so. Now it is your job to pull it back out and clean / clear it.

OR Dollar General