jbooker82

What is the squish clearance?

Yea deffinatly let us know how trinity treats you.

Ask Loco what he thinks about vito's cranks. I can tell you it wont be good.

Most guys have the 4mill rewelded to help insure it doesnt twist. Hot Rods 4mill comes welded and the stock stroke doesn't. I would have some one do an extra weld.

You want a normally open switch and tap in to the black wire with white stripe and the black wire When you ground the bw wire it kills the engine. Same way the factory kill switch does. Hooking it up to the orange coil wire is a good way to ruin a cdi.

you can go broke trying to save money

I would run a Hot Rods crank over a wiseco. The only people I have herd say Hot Rods was junk are people who " Herd" they were junk. There are plenty of people running Hot rods cranks with 90 hp cub cylinders with no problems. The only issue with Hot Rods is people say the 4 mill crank needs a stronger weld. The stock stroke hot rod crank isnt welded.

12 / 15 mpg city / hiwy at 3.50 to 4.00 bucks a gallon will be fun as well.

About the only situeation I would run a RZ transmission is if I was in a country that allowed you to plate and ride your banshee on the street, and I was building a street machine. I dont know how a wide ratio gear box would work in the dirt. If the banshee had more torque then I guess a wider ratio would be good.

I just do a mexican bore job. Run it with out any air filters until I can fit the next size piston.

Yea RS USED to be good. Your's is probably one of the good old ones. I got my banshee 4 years ago. It had a 200w rs stator and it ran great. Then I though I would try one of there hd flywheels. It made a considerable difference. Then the RS quality set in. The flywheel sheared a rivit and took out the pickup coil. Then I went through 3 new rs stators before going to a used OEM one, and oem head lights. It wasnt worth the headache for me. I have a bran new OEM Yamaha stator as a spare back up. That is a pricey stator at 349 each.

Duplicolor High Performance wheel paint in silver looks pretty good. I dont know if it is an exact match. It has a nice amount of metal flake in it. It is pretty tough to since it is designed for wheels.

I got my 06 black LE Plastics from Yamaha of Troy. I belive they are out of Ohio or Indiana.

I run a electrosport stator in my raptor for 2 years now. I dont have any problems. I think the biggest problem with aftermarket stators in a banshee is the pickup coil. Since the flywheel has 2 nodes it has to signal to fire twice per rpm. In the upper rpms i think it just cant keep up. I dont need the extra watttage so I just run an oem stator. If I HAD to have the extra wattage I would try an aftermarket one OTHER than RS. If I had a high rpm miss or it ran crappy on the top end I would try to splice on a good OEM Yamaha pickup coil.

Yea I agree. Do 1 at a time so you dont mix bodies and end caps. You should be able to hold the end cap up to the body and see if the 3 holes line up. Allen screws are way better than pop rivits. Also a little black rtv helps seal the end caps. Other wise oil will seep out. The only easier option would be a toomey style where the end cap is held on by a snap ring.

Yep and this pipe is so awesome he is the only one that owns one.

You could probably mod some toomey silencers to fit. They will probably have a little smaller perforated core though.

If shearer is making the pipe for you then you just as well get use to poor workmanship. If his drag pipes diddn't run as hard as they do nobody would be running them due to poor build quality. I guess if you have a pipe that runs hard you dont really have to worry about making a quality product. I have seen numerous posts about chrom peeling, welds leaking or breaking.

Still working good? Anybody else have one of these? I had a magura on my raptor. I didn't like it. It seemed like the slave cylinder didn't have enough travel. It would not disengage the clutch if I installed the salve cylinder with the spacer collar removed. Or with the spacer collar installed it wouldn't release the clutch all the way. It would slip.

Any thing 2:1 convers your banshee in to a 2 cylinder blaster. I am developing a new product. It is a torque or bottom end multiplyer. Not real set on the name yet. It is desigend for 2:1 guys. If your running a 2:1 carb but still running dual exhaust the kit will be a little more expensive because you will still need 2 of them. Esentially it is a rubber stopper with a 1/8, 1/4, 3/8, or 1/2 hole. The more bottom end you want / need the smaller the hole. The delux kit will have all 4 sizes for $99 bucks, or they can be purchased individually for $30. You just stick it in the end of the silencer. It makes going from differnt power levels simple and quick. People running dual carbs and dual exhaust should not use this product.

If they are just the factoy round end caps why not just turn them. Redill and tap 3 new holes. Use the current holes in the silencer body to mark the new ones.

I just use a wrench on all my cylinder bolts.

You will like the cpi's. They are like T5's on steroids. They do what the t5's do only rev out farther.

Couldn't have said it better. ModQuad = Bad Copy. Get a noss head. Or better yet a F.A.S.T. Head (Noss makes them for FAST).

They must be targeting the Utility jugs that VP, Janz, or other companys sell. The are fuel safe but not approved. You have to use one of those safty cans that cause you to spill more than the can keeps from evaporting.