jbooker82

If it is smoking on the rh side check your trans oil and see if it is low. Some times the crank seal goes out and ends up buring sucking in trans oil.

Call K&N and give them the mold numbers on the rubber ends. They will probably want to know how long the filter is. They will tell you what the part # is. Then you can go buy just one from a K&N dealer. That is what i did when i needed a new filter for my prodesigen plate in my raptor. Got the filter for 46 bucks. Prodesigne sells the same filter for 75, but it doesnt come in a box with a part number on it. They dont want you to know the part number because it is way cheaper some where else.

Wich side is smoking more? Did this just happen or has it happend ever since your rebuild?

Looks like a good set up. The only problem i would have with it is how close the filters are to the exhaust. You can see in that one picture that the filter is resting on the exhaust pipe. At least with clamp on filters you can get ones that have an angled base on them. That way you can point them down away from the exhaust pipes.

Try the C5 and make sure you get a rotator clamp. I would throw the F1 in a catagory of "flexable stock designe".

There is a company that makes templates that you can use. If i was going to try it my self i would deffinatly get those. There is no way i would just try porting my cylinders with out some kind of resources. I cant remember the name of the company that makes them though. Maybe some body here will speak up.

I like mine. Get one with a better warrenty then! I like mine. Wich series was it. C/5, F3, or F1

Yes The klotz oil that is comparable to Castor 927 is Klotz Benol. It is just castor oil. Supertechniplate is 80% synthetic oil and 20% Benol Castor oil.

I dont know what to say about welding your own crank. The thing is that the builders will make sure that the crank is in phase. (when the right cylinder side is at bottom dead center, the farthest it will go down, and the LH side is at top dead center.) Some times the banshee crank gets out of phase becase it is just pressed together. The inspection is more or less what your paying for.

What do you plan on doing to it? Since you said that your going to take the engine completly out and tear it down, you should have the crank trued and welded. Sooner or later your mods will put you in the area of "Man I should have had that crank welded". It is just cheap insurance. If you were planing on replacing the crank i would do a hot rods 4mm stroker crank. There stock crank and 4mm stroker crank are about the same price so why not? Make sure you have some body reweld that to. I here that the hot rods welds arnt the best.

Are you sure you wernt looking at the cm instead of mm? I bet that is what you did. Here are some pics of mine.

You might try pulling a little on it too. See what happens. Dont for get about the pressure that the radiator builds up too. Hate to have a riding trip ruined due to a blown hose.

The Outlaw has 11 inches of ground clearance. The Sportsman 800 has 11.25. That thing might as well be a light weight utility with racks on the front and back. :yelrotflmao: Plus the more complicated the drive system the more HP it robs.

I would say pipes.

He was probably inspired by all of the imports running body kits.

It isn't about top speed. It is about how fast you get to top speed.

I think that it is rated at 150 deg F. Not real high for use as radiator hoses.

I run 19cc's at 2500 feet elevation. That should be around the same compression as your 21cc at sea level. I also have my ignition timing advanced 3 to 4 deg. Runing on premium pump fuel. Your jetting sounds lean to me. Maybe that is why your buring holes in your pistons. You might aslo check for an air leak. What does the other side look like that isnt melting down?

I just have an automotive temp gauge in mine. It aslo lights up when i turn the head lights on. The temp sender is installed in a maniflold in the lower radiator hose. If i am moving fast it runs in the 130 to 150 range. If I am slow trail riding it is around 180. I know the lower hose isnt the most accurate place. The ideal spot would be in the hose coming from the cylinder head to the radiator. josh

I would like to put my name in. A better set of pipes than the fmf's would be great.

Here is the guys ebay store. I just emailed him about making a custom warning lable cover. I just drew a picture of how I wanted it layed out. I mailed him the TLD Flaming carb decal and the drawing how I wanted it layed out. He made the 720r, and the user name. I bought the alpine stars warining label cover alread done in one of his auctions. Here is the sellers store. Carbon Covers Ebay Store LINK

I had a couple of custom ones made for my raptor. Carbon Covers ebay store did it for me. The one on my front finder has the TLD Flaming Carb sticker, 720R, and my user name on bluetraxx.com (03LimitedEditionRaptor). It has the clear resen applied over the graphics so they wont peal off. He can aslo make custom number plates too. He cuts his own decals out. So you can pick some colors.

It would mix just as good. It is a thicker oil but your still mixing it with gas wich thins it down. I would just make sure that you have the fuel turnd off so you dont get strait oil in the carbs. Then I would just stand on the pegs and rock it back and fourth to make sure.

ASV Levers are pretty sweet. The have a spring in them that lets the lever go forward if you become a member of the "over the bars club". Plus you can adjust how far away from the bars you want levers to be. They are adjustable for your hand size. ASV Levers LINK

yep you can. I though that if i ever did a dc conversion i would just make my own battery. I would use some GP 3700 NiHM sub c cells. Just make a 12 volt cell just like you were making one for an electric rc car. Do two rows of five cells. That way you could just zip ty it to the frame some where. No brackets required. Those cells would have a capacity of 3.7 amp hours. It would be enough that your lights would still stay bright even when idling.