jbooker82

No Spacer plate and cut domes is the way to go You need a 4 mill specific port job because the pistons fall 2mm farther down in to the bore, (the top of the piston at bottom dead center will me 2mm below the transfer ports) and they also pop out of the cylinder 2mm. With a spacer plate the pistons will fall 4mm lower and be the same hight as stock at TDC. josh

USPS and FedEx have 6 day work weeks. Non of the shutting down for the weekend unless you want to pay even more for a saturday delivery from UPS. josh

It will make a stronger midrange. It gives the connecting rods more leverage. Like using a longer wrench or cheater bar on a stuck bolt. josh

I wouldnt do that ethire with aluminum cases. I thouht maybe it would work for the bottom mounts. josh

I think a V twin out of a Suzuki SV1000s would make a nice quad engine.

I would say it should bolt right up. Might as well do a fresh pack job and clean up while you have it off. josh

Or get a 4mill crank, dune port job, and cpi's and keep the carbs. :biggrin:

I am glad it didnt take out my Pro Designe billit plate. Then have them replace it with a cast one.

I have bought some chrome allen bolts at Ace hardware. It gets real expensive real fast at 2 bucks a bolt. They look nice though.

FMF Turbine Core II silencers is the way I would go. They are about the best performing spark arrestor. Way better than the clamp on sparkies. Just sell your Power Core II's and buy the Turbine Core II's and dont look back. I dont know why FMF doesnt show an application for the banshee. They are 240 range on ebay. Just make sure where ever you get them from they are for FMF Fatties. The fatty and gnarly use the same silencers, the FMF SST uses different silencers, they have a shorter stinger tube. josh Turbine Core II's Ebay LINK Turbine Core II LINK

I would run v force 3's with cascade's reed stuffers. Thay would match up the square intake the best.

Just sync the carbs with the air box off. Hold the gauge against the carb. You want slack in the cable. Adjust the idle speed screws until you get the same number and Idle speed you want. Then you need to take all the slack out of the cable and have a high idle. Then you adjust the tops of the carbs until you get the same number. That insures both carbs will opean the same. josh

The pipes are about the only thing that will affect compression. They probably wont affect it enough that you will notice it when kicking it over. When it is running that is when they will affect the compression a little. That is why 2 stroke pipes are shaped the way they are.

A&S but your banshee will be down for a while but he builds some of the fastest banshee's around. One of the few who have also got a turbo banshee to run extreemly well.

The honda kill switch that I got has 2 wires. Both wires hook up with bullit connectors to the stock banshee wring harness. The green wire just goes to the bolt that clamps the switch to the handle bars. It makes sure the switch is grounded. The other wire is a black wire with a white tracer. It hooks up to the same color wire on the banshee harness. To shut the banshee you ground the black wire with white tracer. So when you push the kill button it just grounds the black and white wire. The green wire just makes sure the is grounded. It doesnt matter if it grounds the black and white wire to chassis gound or the all black ground wire on the banshee's wiring harness. I had the green wire come unpluged and it still worked. It would just shock me when doing a wot plug chop. josh

when I worked at the salvage yard we would have to cut the bolts off of leaf springs some times. We would just melt or burn the rubber bushing out and use a hammer and scew driver to get the out side steel sleeve out of the leaf spring. Then press new bushings in to the leaf springs with the vice.

I am at 2000 ft. I would start out at 160 and go down from there. josh

By ballancer you mean flywheel. Has the magnets and the electrical componets behind it on the LH engine side, under the plastic cover? You need to use a special puller. If you use the 2 or 3 jaw puller you can bend and ruin the flywheel. Banshee Flywheel Puller LINK

Yea I have the same carbs. They also came with the jetting that Keihin's web page. CGL and CEL are going to be the same taper

The raptor 660 is a great frame to use. It allows for much taller engines with out chopping the frame.

If you talk to passion he might be able to report them for the crank since it was a mx port. He probably wouldnt be able to do a 4 mill mx port but maybe a dune 4 mill. That is maybe what you should shoot for. The 4 mill will help out a lot in the mid range so you can give some up to gain top end, but still have more midrange than what you started with. josh

Here is the one that I have. I am sure it is probably the same one Eman has too since all honda kill switches are the same. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/HONDA-CR-XR...sspagenameZWDVW

I think you might have them backwards. The green on my honda kill switch grounds the switch, so you want to hook that one up to the all black wire on the banshee's wring harness. Then hook the Black with white tracer to the black with white tracer. I believe the stock connectors should work. Mine were just the bullit connectors like the tail light ( no break light) banshee.

The stock plastic pump has been known to break after time. The aluminum ones have a better impeller designe that pumps coolant better too.

I believe you just take the E clip off the impeller shaft on the plastic gear side and it should slide right out. josh