LiftdT4R

Wow, this is actually my first full build now, and I'm 26. Ive done dirtbike engines before, started about when I was 16 or so, I did a top-end on my RM125.

Even with a good +4 it's gonna tend to throw you towards the bars more. The few times I've seen people MX the + swinger, the front end of the bike almost always comes down first.

Cool, good to hear, I plan to keep them for a long long time. Do you still have a shee? I know you parted out most of that one in your sig a while back.

DAMN! Those look awesome on your bike! How do you got about changing the tires on them, just unscrew the rings, but it still seems like youd have to pop 1 bead, and the front ones look tough because they only have a single beadlock.

Damn, the ITP Bajas were the first wheel I looked at. I like the look of them a lot, but Hipers with Holeshot HDs for $700, I couldnt pass that up, it's only $100 more then the Bajas would have been. I might buy the mud plugs for them too, keep 'em clean. Anybody use Hipers for some general trail riding? I'm still wondering how hard/easy it is to change tires on them. It looks like you'd still have to break a bead after you got the rings off to get the whole tire off.

I'm gonna give you the same advice I did when you asked the same question a couple days ago: http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=74039

Hmmm, I never noticed a wire coming off of the timing plate if that's your second question. The ground/black wire should come off the stator, and run to the back of the bike(it gets spliced with other gorunds on it's way), and then gets grounded to the fram under the voltage regulator. If the coil gap is too much, you will probably still get a spark, but the bike will run like shit, especially towards the power band. If the gap is way too much, then no you won't get a spark. If the gap is too little, the nub on the coil will be gone, it will hit the notch on the flywheel and destroy the coil.

Cool, always good to know! I wanted to ask you too, what's up with the holeshots? Your not MXing a bike like that are you? (Me thinks not) Sounds like a hot bike from your sig, any pics, I don't think I've seen your bike yet.

Damn dude, I guess it's good that you caught it sooner rather then later. The filter oil is much much sticker then regular oil, BIG difference. Just one question though, why are you paying a builder to change jets? It's not that hard expesically when your runnin' pods. Just buy a synch tool from Jeff and do it yourself. Also, on the exhaust, you never took a look and noticed the spring was missing? I'm not trying to knock you or anything, but you could save a good amount of beer tickets doin simple stuff like that yourself, and just looking over the bike after every ride. I found that my bike became way mroe fun when I strted doing my work myself. Kind of a pride thing ya know.

I have one in my shed, I havent rode on it yet, but I bought it because a lot of people here seemed to like them, especially for the price. They do have lifetime warranty too, and RockyMountain has excellent customer service(Never seen them for sale anywhere else). Let us know what you think after you get a couple rides in. You don't have to re-jet for that G-Force do you? :yelrotflmao:

Hehe, thanks, it is, I have a front end, and motor mods though. And to be honest $700 doesn't seem bad for a full set of wheels and tires. I was at $580 when I priced out a full set of Razr2s on .190 ITP Wheels.

Goldamn, I just got the hemi cylinders for my Cummins, they rock! :yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao: Is there any truth to using modified YZ 250 cylinders on a shee, I've heard about that before, but I never really thought anything of it.

Thanks man good to know, anybody have any feedback on these wheels? They should hold me for a long time right?

Hey, what's up? I finally gave in and bought s set of Hiper Single Beadlock wheels. My buddy had them on his YFZ, and ran them for a season, and then sold them to me. I got away for $700 for 2- 20-11-9 rears and 2 -22-7-10 Holeshot HDs mounted on the Hipers. Just wanted to know though, Is there anything I should watch out for on the Hipers? Any cons? Also, how easy is it to mount your own tires on them. He said they were a modular design, so you can actually take the wheel apart. Is this a bitch to do? Also, does anone know the torque specs when I put them back together? I have never owned or used a beadlock wheel before, and to be honest, I don't need it, I've never popped a bead until a few months ago, and that was just stupid. I really liked the Hipers because you can change the tires yourself without a machine or a backbreaker. Also, I like the look a lot, they won't rust or pit, and they shouldnt bend as easy either. I went through a lot of front rims with the trails I do. Any input would be helpful, I'm just trying to guage how useful these are gonna be. I don't race by the way, just trail ride, and playin' around. Thanks :beer:

Payment sent! Thanks bro! :beer:

I did both my harnesses myself, they are very easy to do. Pick up a clymers, and there is a schematic in the back that tells you what color wires are what. It also tells you what switches are normally opened and closed. Just strip off all the electrical tape and hack away! :beer:

Is it new? If not, how do you know the crank is true? That thing could be way out of whack, and be more headaches then it's worth. Post up a link, or at least a pic, I'm sure someone could give you some good info about it.

Damn, I've never seen one, I know 800ccs is a huge engine, it's just that the thing weighs 2-300lbs more then a banshee, and is an auto. Are they really that much faster then a piped and jetted banshee? I know on dirt it might be tough to hook up with the banshee, but damn, them things must move if they're beting 450Rs and shit.

Damn, I took a look on the can-am website, and those things are FUGLY. Are they really that fast? It's not hard to beat an all stock Banshee, but even with 800ccs and 62 horse, it's still a 4x4 and an automatic. I would think a piped and jetted banshee would take it no problem. Plus, this thing is around 700lbs with a rider and gas. Me and my banshee together are only at around 500. I don't know though, just a though.

How much you think stock Banshee fronts go for new? More then Elka e36s last time I checked. I wonder if any fool ever bought stock banshee front shocks brand new from a dealer. :shoothead:

It was the cheapest one there, like $10 or so, it works decent actually. Just check out the picture on the front of the box, because some have the straight neck, some have the "bent" neck.

PM sent, just some small stuff

I got a grease gun from Pep Boys, it is a rigid neck, but with a bend in it, you can turn it different ways, and I havent had a problem with it. I have to jack up the bike to get some of the zerks underneath, but it works fine. I think it's made by PowerBuilt, but there are a million companies that make that style.

Gol Damn! Definately time for a re-build, personally I rebuild at 110 or 115PSI, I never let them go that far. You should notice an incrase in power after the rebuild, but it's definately time. :: I don't think anyone agrees on pipes, myself included. Sadly I think the only way you will know what you will like is if you get out there and try them. I had to ride damn near every trail pipe under the sun before I settled on 1, and I actually have FMFs on one bike, and PT Mids on my other. I like both actually.

You shouldnt. you can overtighten it, and then youll need a new crank. Buy a flywheel holder, from your local cycle shop, or make one. Put 2 bolts through a 2x4, at the same spacing as the holes on the flywheel, and use a spade bit to bore a whole at the location of the nut, you can then hold the flywheel while you tighten or remove the nut. You can use a strap wrench too, but I never had a lot of luck with them.