creamsickle

your crank could have came out of true.

am in the process of converting to a drag banshee and no longer need the dune parts that I just recently bought... LSR A ARMS- these are the tripple chomred pro series a arms. they have a couple rides on them and thats it. they have no scratches or dings. I bought them new for a $1000 and now will no longer need them. im looking to get 750 out of them thanks http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a390/kcpoager/IMG_2116.jpg http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a390/kcpoager/IMG_2127.jpg ELKA REAR SHOCK- rear shock with compression and rebound adjustment, ressie not piggyback. $650 http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a390/kcpoager/IMG_2138.jpg http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a390/kcpoager/IMG_2132.jpg TWISTER MINI BILLIT CYLDINERS- Twister mini billet cylinders set up for a 4mill crank. This will come with the complete polished top end. Meaning, new v force reeds(cr 125), intake boots, head domes and pistons. I ran this for only a couple trips and decided I wanted to do a bigger alky bike. these cylinders have never had alky ran through them. cameron also has done some port work to the cylinders. new the cylinder

if you have stock carbs they have a litle window on the side of the carb towards the top. your slides have a little machined spot on them that you can line up with the window. open the throttle till you see the mark in the window of the carb. then look at the other carb you should also see a mark in the window. if the carbs are the same then check your compression maybe one cylinder has some bad rings. also make sure that your slides are not in backwards. if you are having weak spark it could just be you need to cut the ignition coil a little and screw your caps back on to a new clean connection.

it sounds like your pilot jets are a little plugged. or you could have some bad reeds. check the reeds for gaps. start with one general thing and move to another. start with fuel delivery then move on to something like electical( tors unit, bad ground, bad cdi, bad plugs) make sure that your vent tube for your gas tank isnt pinched or plugged. you could have a vapor lock.

stock banshee compression is 150 to 155. there is no reason why you cant run 91octane pump gas with that compression. even with advanced timing it will be ok.

I would love to see a sheet on a ten mill super. as well as the mini billets. we are getting ready to do 2 super cub setups. hope they turn out well. really trying to get my hands on a few mini billets. I think im going to be doing a 10mill after the first of the year. anybody out there tuned a cheetah DM yet? I would like to see how much more gains the super 10mill will make over the 68. im thinking the reed cage will restrict the power, seems like effiency will go down

sounds like you are on the right track. the paul turner pipes will chock the top end up give you an all around great duning or trail bike. I run the PT pipes on my 4mill cub and love them....as long as im not at the hill

make sure taht your slides arent in backwards.

make sure you still ahve a good ground. We have ran extra ground wires from the head to the frame just to make sure. make sure that your plug caps are good, if you have to taek them off adn clip the coil wires to makes sure there is a good connection. if you have a friend with a banshee start swapping out parts. it will help to eliminate and narrow down the problem. check your compression, always a wise thing to do when you rebuilt a top end. do you have the tors still? sould be a cdi going out.

how much are you wanting for the cubs and the crank. probably more so interested in the crank then the cubs. but might want both. are you sure that its just the rod on the crank that is messed up. please if the bearing race or other parts of the crank are messed up I need to know. thanks man.

what kind of a arms are on it and swinger and suspension and whats the condition of the parts. also looking for maybe some spindles and tie rods. thanks man pics would be nice as well.

coild tend to heat up and the wire expands and can lose its ability to have a strong spark. so if you have a friend who also has a banshee see if you can steal their ignition coil and then try it to see if there is a problem after it gets hot.

ok so the cutting out, does it happen when ou slam the throttle? and by slam I mean go from almost idle to like full throttle. what if you try to just slowly raise the rpms until its pegged. cause if it works when you slowly rev it thenn you have a clogged jet or a faulty reed. and get back on it to see if it does it in other gears. could also be the vapor lock like the guys were saying above. but you need to narrow down the span of rpms that it happens. low throttle only or high end only? does it matter if I slam the throttle or slowly accelerate? if you punch it at the top end(assuming you can get it there) does it bog out again?

if its a small leak from the coolant system you might not even notice any missing. doesnt take much water to get in there and turn everything white. to elminate the possibility of water getting in through that tube just cap that shit off right at the case. but yeah definatly replace that impeller seal and bearing. cuase if that shit goes you looking at a not so fun rebuild and a new side case.

did the lights go out when you were riding or was the bike sitting then next time you went out they stopped working? more often then not I have seen the light\run switch go bad. if you have a friend with a banshee see if he will let you steal his and plug that $hit back in and then see if its fixed

stay away from the 6s. they are horrible. I have a set if you want them though hahaha. no but really the fatties and the t5s arent much different. if you look at the pipes side by side they really arent that much different. ive rode both and the fatties seem to have a little bit better low end. the t5s rev a little higher. personaly if you are looking for a dune pipe I would go with the paul turners. I love them I run them on 421 cub motor. they do suck on the top end though. for top end you really cant beat the cpis or shearers. if you can find a set of toomey t3s that would be a pretty good pipe. good luck finding them though haha. for all around the t5s take the cake in my opinion. they have a smooth pull through out the whole power band. they allow good access to the plugs( unlike cpi inframes) and if you end up running bigger carbs in the future your larger K and N filters wont get in the way(like the paul turners) t5s with cascade silencers are the way to go. especialy for those who have to worry abotu noise.

I know you guys have it broken up into classes like 300ft and road and that stuff. but I raced a 7mill stock jugs just up a hill in the sand and well really it was whoever got the whole shot. I think I wont 3 and he won 2. mines a 4mill cub with pt pipes. so not a drag bike at all. I also raced a 358 cub and walked all over it. so im assuming that the 7mill would prevail. but the crazy thing about this sport is really any person can beat anybody on any given race. ive seen 10mill get beat up hills by 350s bad launch bike ran like shit gearing was off. so you knwo there are tons of variables that come into play. but to generalize it I would go with the 7mill. interesteing concept let us know if you guys actually race.

you need to do a leak down test. get yourself a leak down tester and that should tell you the problem. basically you plug all the holes then pump the cylinder up to 6psi and watch the guage to see if it droppes. 1psi loss per minute is aceptable. in order to have a noticable leak it will basically drop like a rock. thats your only way to look for the leak other then what you have already done.

share the news man I wanna know what you are going to be getting. and when ya going riding next. dont worry my shee can tow ya back if you burn off a plug hehehehe.

just to be safe a had that happen and he took it out and turned it upside down and then sprayed with carb cleaner. and before that he poured his race gas and basically filled the crank case with it. it ate away the remaining out and also broke down the radiator fluid and flushed it all out, then he just took some amsoil and relubed it put it together and now it runds great.

cam is the man. he built my 421 cub duner motor. love it. was just down there today getting some new domes cut cause I changed out my base gasget. hell of a nice guy. bruce when you going riding next? or when you getting another shee put back together. cams # is 541 367 2453 Kris,

was this a 5th gear roll on? seems like you got good HP but was the torque really only 46? couldnt really read it. that seems a little low. even for cpis. then again could the the airstrikers.

definatly its the water pump seal. thats the only place that you can get coolant into your oil. and as for the vent hose. I just put a cap on mine as it comes out of the case. really its not that big of a deal just dont over fill your oil:) when you change the seal make sure you change out the bearing as well. also if your seal has gone bad there is a good chance that you impeller shaft may have some groves in it. if so you might want to get replaced since you will have it apart.

you need to put washers inbetween your pipe hanger and the frame it will bring the upper pipe hanger out a little. should fix the problem.

check the reeds. you may have a broken one. before you rip into the engine you should probably do a leak down test. its pretty easy you just need to get a kit or find somebody that has a kit. basically you plug the exhaust holes and the remove the carbs and plug the intake boots. then there is this hand pump, kinda looks like a blood pressure guage and well you pump it up to 6psi adn then watch to see if it goes down. 1psi per minute is acceptable. but definatly check the reeds. the same thing was happening with my sisters shee. you would start it and then it would just start climbing in the rpms. turns out one reed was demolished and the riht side wasnt firing at all just pushin out unspent air. and the right side was overreving. I am willing to bet, that will be your problem.