Snopczynski

I use the same amount of gas with twin carbs as I did with a single carb. Its your porting, not your carb size. Stick with the 8" rims.

Hello?

What octane fuel do you run?

I had the motofast pipe also, its about the same as the dynoport setup.

Thats the same pipe I used to run.

Im just gonna throw this out there, I have seen quite a few fags who like baby blue. Its not exactly a straight mans color. Medium and Dark blue are ok, but baby blue? I think when you get to that blue color level you need to question your penis.

The guy was probably talking about E85.

LOL :laugh:

I hope you lapped the flywheel to the crankshaft before you put it back on.

If you dont want a low-mid pipe, then why were you looking to get a 2 into 1 exhaust? You lose top end with low-mid pipes.

Go up on the mains until it starts to run bad, then go back down until it clears up.

Every aspect of the power band is limited with the 2 into 1. Dont buy it, it does not make as much torque, and hp as a set of pro circuits for a low mid pipe. It does not accelerate as fast either. Your new, so you will learn to trust what I say about pipes as you do a search and see all my dyno testing threads and reviews on parts. I ran the 2 into 1 for 2 years and tried to make it work, but eventually I ended up with pro circuits. They rock.

What octane fuel are you running?

Yeah, I put down 66 hp on a crank dyno with a ported 350, that is gonna be one of the most accurate dynos out there. If your using a factory dyno that's that far off, then how do you know the actual correction factors are making the graph curves turn out right? Most "Factory" Dyno numbers I have seen are exagerated and not under shot by any means. I wouldn't be worried about the end numbers, but if it is that far off, then how do you know its using the right formulas to gain accurate results for readings. Dyno jets are not accurate by any means, but even the 70hp mark seems way off.

I would really like to beat the fuck out of the person who invented the phrase "When a Dyno passes me on the track, then I will worry about dyno numbers". A dyno is a tuning tool that can easily tell you gains to be had by different component combinations. You can break your motor in on a dyno, and you can use it to get your jetting close on your carbs. I dont post dyno numbers on here to say " I am awesome" nor do I use the dyno for that reason as well. I use the dyno for the reasons listed above. There is not going to be a single person on here that has used a dyno, that will tell you it was a waste of time and they did not learn at least one thing from it.

I recently ran mine in the dunes a week ago. Very bright. Search Link

yes, If you program the cdi the dynatek will replace the timing plate for advance.

post mount mr11

Is someone gonna answer my question?

Either your full of shit, or your dad is. Watch what you say, cause my dad can beat up your dad.

Where are you getting this stuff? You need to spell and grammar check yourself. Its hard trying to figure out what your saying or asking. I have no clue what your getting at with that last post.

Do not listen to this guy. The only time you would want to do this is if your squish was at .089" with a .047" base gasket. This is not sound advice, as it would put your squish at .015" and it needs to be about 3 times that much. Dont forget, if your running a head gasket, there is room to move the squish down there as well. Taking it to a thinner base gasket will raise compression, and lower the exhaust port for more bottom end. The gasket thicknesses have to be checked with pressure on the caliper to measure them compressed.

Take em out, measure them, then order new ones.

Did JJ&A put metric hardware on their axles yet? Last time I bought one it had sae studs, bolts, and nuts on it. The rim center actually fit like shit.

You check it with a piece of hollow core solder, paralell to your wrist pin, all the way out at the edge of the cylinder near the wall. You roll over the motor by hand very slowly, then check the thickness of the solder with a dial caliper all the way across the squished area of the solder. The lowest point is your minimal squish.