Snopczynski

Is the choke balance tube on? Are the slides in the right direction?

Yes.

How were you checking the compression? Was it the same way every time? I dont see what your stating actually happening.

Do you think next time you could actually leave us a little less information. How about just typing "I" when you reply. Picking pipes is based on engine modifications, and riding terrain.

Thats pipe is the old mid-early top pipe they made. The Nickel Gold series that come out in the 1993 range was its predecessor. If the header tubes appeared to have straight angles instead of a gradual curve like the one you have pictured, then those would have been the torque pipes.

So you touch the plug to a head nut and it does not spark?

The T5 is not an all around pipe. There really isn't anything thats an all around pipe out there for any 2-stroke. The T5 is a mid-top pipe. For trails and mx, your gonna want to look into the Pro circuits, pt mids, and fmf Gnarley.

You dont compare these two pipes, they are not in the same power category. Picking pipes is based on riding terrain, and modifications to the motor.

There are better pipes out there for the money.

Im pretty sure the park brake wire actually has to be grounded. Thats what I recollect.

LOC, we were just fucking with you earlier in the post.

HOLY FUCKING SHIT THAT GUY DID NOT KNOW WHAT HE WAS DOING! Usually you cant look at a picture and see much wrong, but that thing is fucked up. Go find that guy and punch him in the balls twice! I have a set of stock cylinders in the garage. So far all I did to them was sharpen one boost tunnel divider. They need to be bored to I think 65.50mm. I can sell them to ya and ship em over. Then you can send them off to whoever you like to have them ported. PM me if your interested.

Pipes Coolhead and bump up compression Timing advance Air filters Lighten flywheel Port work Carbs Clutch Tires comes in to effect as a major thing, but its sort of based on what you ride. If its dirt, thn I put in in slot #3. If its sand, it goes in Slot #2.

The connectors are different, some had functions like park brake limiters.

The pwk is supposed to be crisper throttle response because of the slide shape.

33pwk with T5's, 35pwk with CPI's. anything bigger than the 35mm is gonna be too big. The CPI is not really a drag pipe though, its just a ood mid-top pipe. Ask DAJ what he would run for a drag pipe.

Most of the kids on here are posers anyway. Not suprising. I dont even believe he has owned 10 banshees and a grizzly.

Im thinking for $23.00, you can get the right ones and not waste a ton of time trying to look them up yourself.

What pipes?

Cascade Innovations clutch.

The pt mids are a nice pipe, but every motor we have compared them to pc's on, they fell short. Pro circuits peak at about 300 rpm less, but they make more power everywhere compared to the pt mids. We currently run pt mids on one bike thats 87hp (which we proved to the owner the pro circuits made 5 more hp on his 460cc motor). We run pro circuits on 5 of the other bikes. There is one with an identical motor to the 460cc paul turner bike that makes 94hp with the pro circuits. So, I personally recommend pro circuits based on what I have dyno tested, and the bikes I have ridden. They seem like they wake up a lot sooner than pt mids, and feel like they pull harder to the top.

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Motor warm, Pull both plugs, and kick it repeatedly very fast with the trottle wide open the whole time. As long as you measure the squish at the side of the rod pins, then use your lowest number (.045") it should be ok. Now, the key is to see if your compression is actually what the gauge says it is. If its detonating, you can back off timing, or up the octane to get rid of it. If the plugs back out on their own, thats a sure sign that it is detonating.

The pt mids actually pull higher rpm than the pro circuits, but the pro circuits make more power everywhere.

go down then, if it gets worse, then go up 2 sizes and check it. Your gonna need to go off feel from here.