Snopczynski

Searched "transmission oil" http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?show...ransmission+oil

How do you have the single 35mm setup for mains, pilots, and needle size? Thats not a very good match for t5-s and a dune port. I would personally run 28mm carbs on your setup. What 28mm carbs are we talking about? Did you try getting jet specs off of here? I know cascade is usually way off on their jet specs for the single carb setup. Do you still have the 28mm carbs? Did you ever check to make sure they had the right slide cuouts, float heights set, and all that stuff in em? Where did you get the 28mm carbs?

How big are your air filters?

You can run +4 with curve 3, but its already advanced about 4 degrees over stock at max rpm. I would work my way up 1 degree at a time. I do reprograms, I dont sell the cable and hardware. I actually had to buy another cable from radioshack to hook to my computer's usb port.

Im not gonna recommend it for the setup he has. It will kill his top end, and make his powerband narrower.

Yes. You can manipulate the whole timing curve on the dyna. Drag bikes, which are the fastest banshees there are, are ridden around only max rpm. So there is not really a need for a custom cdi curve map. Keyways are bullshit, stay away from them.

I use black high heat rtv on pipe/stinger.

Well, a 2 into 1 carb can leak too. Its all about having fresh gaskets, proper float height, and the vent lines long enough, and routed correctly.

Odd, we could definitely tell a difference in how the bike ran between all the curves the cdi came with. When we were in Utah last month, We were riding the 4 mill, and had the laptop setup. I would swap out curves and he told me which one seemed the best setup for him. So both cases we have seen a difference that was definitely noticable. Porting is definitely the best bang for the buck mod next to pipes. Cdi's and timing are just easy things to do that rate a little further down on the scale of difference.

They come pre-programmed with a selector switch, or you can make your own curves with the programmer kit. Daj, as the fastest bikes in the world do use the stock cdi, they also operate at one rpm range WOT! Being a low-mid guy, I have seen a huge difference between the stock curves, curves the cdi comes with, and curves I have made. It definitely makes the bike more peppy. If anyone needs a curve made, I will do it for an initial charge, after that if they send it back for another re-program, all they have to do is pay for shipping. Thats how much I would stand behind the dyna cdi. I have messed around with them enough, to where if someone gives me the list of mods on their bike, I can build them a pretty good curve to try. If anything, I can even take the stock curve in the 4th slot and add timing advance to it as well as a backup.

Your running the wrong setup to be a prime candidate for a 2 into 1 intake. It will rob your topend a bit, and its not a great match to cpi pies and vforce reeds. What type of port work are you shooting for?

I bought a set of chrome ones, and had them powdercoated flat black. Had em 3 years and they have been rolled over on at least half a dozen times. Still going!

I personally hate riding bikes with stock timing curves in them after owning a dyna. It doesn't just advance the timing, it changes the entire timing curve, so the bike runs different over the entire rpm range. I would rather be shot in the dick than run a stock cdi ever again. :biggrin:

Topend rpm you'll never use, and less bottom end.

I say 33's if its not a full blown drag bike.

Half the stuff you asked is in the forum already if you use the search. I really dont feel like answering 30 questions on that pipe, as it doesn't work real well anyway. The thing already wasted 2 years of my time when I used to run it. That and you dont even have a banshee, and wont be using it anyway. I have no clue what the heck you were talking about with the old Kawasaki?

Do you just drag race, or do you play ride? You need to invest in some different tires. What compression is that motor?

93hp out of stock cylinders and crank?

Was it a rear wheel or crank dyno?

Thats fine, I just have dealt with everyone up here. So I know who I like, and who I dont like now. Another good shop for repairs and tuning in the area is S&S motorsports in Puyallup.

You can get them from Cascade.

He should be running a N68A with a port job and all the mods he has. The JJH is too small.

So thats it? Stock carbs, and stock everything else?

Ok, I called Chris at Cascade. I need to know what needle your running in the oko's.

Well, I have been in custom Sand toys and it seemed to me they were kind of a shady looking company from what I could tell. The owner had a pitbull in his parts showroom, and there were about 5 little gang banger punks cussing up a storm in there as well. I dont care who you are, thats just bad business practice. I have never seen anything from that shop really do anything amazing going up the drag strip either. The bikes may look cool and pretty, but they aren't fast. Its hard to believe they're motor guy is educated enough to really accurately calculate things like port durations, when he can't even spell "Build" right. The guy at C&M built a 10 mill cub motor, rode it himself, and I watched two Twister 4mill cub motors stomp a mud hole in his ass a few moths ago. Again, a guy who makes nice looking bikes, but not fast bikes. Everyone who builds banshees think they make fast bikes, everyone has something to say about how other companies do it the wrong way. When you actually go out and watch these bikes, thats what tells you who is doing it right and wrong. Cause then all the talk goes out the window, and the builders skills are what wins the races. These guys may be able to build something decent because they have built it over and over time and time again. However, you almost always see them mis-matching the parts, recommending the same things for different types of motors, over carberutoring setups, and using the entirely wrong pipes for what the motor is doing. I have worked with Patriot Racing and ILR Performance, because they know what they are doing. I trust Dan and Dave with even my own stuff. They both do Dyno testing, they ride, and they can spell. You dont have to be a full fledge shop to get good parts deals. You just have to be a full fledge shop to get a distributorship set up for shitty companies like tucker rock, and parts unlimited. I use Cascade, if you buy enough stuff, they will always help you out.