Snopczynski

Which dunes are being closed? For what reasons?

You need to list everything done to the bike, and which carb you have on the 2 into 1 intake.

$105 each for the solstice lights + shipping. I also have a helmet light kit that comes with a battery pack, mount, charger, and corded switch.

The LED's I sell only require a DC conversion, there is no absolute need for the battery if you dont want to run it.

The funny part is, everyone thinks the 2 into 1 pipes are a low-mid pipe. Its just a mid pipe, and not a very good one at that.

I have ran both single pipes. The motofast was cool back in the day, but thats before pro circuit was even making a banshee pipe. Lets put it this way> Old bike with +6 swingarm, all built up for sand with a motofast pipe was decently fast. You had to pop the clutch and pull on the front end, then it would wheelie. My current bike with a +6.5" swingarm, all built low-mid for sand with the pro circuits, the front end is always up in the air. I feel my current setup makes the most torque out of any setup I have ever ran.

Dan still works on stuff. He taught me how to do port work, and he does machine work for me. I saw him about 4 weeks ago when I picked up a set of RZ jugs from him for a guy.

I also think they are Mikuni TM's, and probably 28mm's.

I dont agree with this, there are some things here that are not a good idea to do. Like running a 12 tooth sprocket will make your chain wear through your swingarm pivot. Go up in the rear if you want to gear lower than a 13 tooth front. I am also a firm believer the pro circuits will perform better everywhere than the 2 into 1 pipe. I like to add compression to increase power everywhere, and advance timing to improve power ass well. If you run premium octane pump fuel, you wont have any issues with heat or detonation with compression under 155 psi and slightly advancing the timing.

I do run a charging system. I floated the ground on a stock stator, and I wired up a charge relay. So the bike only charges the battery when the lights are on. I also used a regulator/rectifier out of a snowmobile to do the dc conversion. The battery is a little 10ah unit that I made a bracket for and put under the back seat where the airbox used to be. I even built a coolant bottle bracket into it. I used all water resistant, or stock looking connectors on the conversion also.

YES

We run a 38mm on a 7mill cheetah motor. I have no clue what rod is in it right now. I think you are going to be over carbureting it though. the 36mm on the 4 mill ran alot better than when we had the 38mm on it. I have seen results on the dyno with my stock troke, and stock bore motor that indicated anything much more than the 35mm pwk I had on it would have been too big.

Ummmm, those are mikuni vm's, same style carb as the stockers.

Where did you get that ignition chart?

Ricky stator has only 1 ac output + a ground for the lighting circuit, so your going to need to clarify what you hooked up on this. Are you saying after you floated it, it has two ac outputs? Did you use a full wave or half wave rectifier?

Where is the source for this info?

Did you put a regulator/rectifier on the bike to convert the lighting current to DC?

Anyone play in one of those endless custom matches on live yet? I played a domination match on rust for 4 hours and 40 minutes the other night. Someone finally got a nuke and ended the game.

Curve 4 in the dyna is the stock timing curve as long as no one reprogrammed it. If you running the right fuel, and have the bike jetted properly, the cdi isn't going to cause the bike to burn down in the next 1000 years.

How much do you want to spend?

The trail techs are still brighter.

Yeah!

I would start this question and answer session with: What do you want the bike to run like? What type of riding will you be doing? Are you willing to spend money to make this the optimal setup?

I have a set of those in the lights in our trailer. They are bright, but not as bright as I think you guys are hoping. Good stuff costs money.