Snopczynski

I need a set of paranormal activity pipes, they are way newer.

there is a thread in the jetting forum, it lists out what everyone uses for jet specs. You should be able to find something in there.

I would run a 28-30mm carb. Mikuni TM or Keihin PWK with your setup. Your bike would benefit more in the midrange if you ran some low or mid tension reeds compared to the vf3's. There should be no difference in top end between the bolt on reeds and the vf3's with those pipes your running. You can run a lot more compression also, especially since your running race gas. If you plan on running those pipes indefinitely dont go over a 30mm carb.

You dont need to cut pipes anymore. They did that back in the day with T3's because no one made drag pipes back in the mid 90's. Now there are tons of drag pipe options, so its not needed anymore. Just buy a pipe that does what you want it to do. If you want a tucked pipe, buy the PT high revs.

The banshee can be built for awesome low end power. It sucks for mx racing mostly because of the crappy chassis.

you usually have to get the jetting close, and pull the pipe to check the wetline. I usually get it as close to the piston as I can, but keep it out of the wetline.

You heard they weren't drag durations, or you asked them and know?

your squish gap will increase also.

You have a problem here. If you truly have a trail port, going to a mid-top exhaust is going to narrow your power window and take away bottom end, and then start robbing the lower part of the midrange. You have way too big of a carburetor for a trail port and for running pro circuits. You should be down around 28-30mm's (pro circuits peak at 8,800 rpm). I would imagine right now your missing out on a bunch of bottom end with such a big carb, and the throttle is probably not as crisp as it could be. To do this right, you need to have the cylinders re-ported so you can use the full potential of a mid-top pipe.

we usually buy cub motors and re-sleeve them, then lower all the porting down in them to bring the power down into the low-mid range. Everything out there in a big bore aftermarket cylinder usually uses durations that are suited to mid-top setups.

You cant read plugs on a motor that runs race fuel, you have to use a device like the egt gauge or go by feel.

I have seen gains with low and mid carbon tech bolt on petals with stock cages that made more hp and torque on the dyno than the same bike with vf3's. This was on a low-mid built banshee, not a drag bike, or a dune bike. Im only a fan of the VF3 on mid-top built bikes (Dune, Drag). Otherwise I will take the carbon techs any day for more low and mid hp and torque.

Someone always has to come in and be a dick for no reason. I dont think you properly understood what he was saying.

mine are ceramic coated. So far its been on there two years.

I had a ceramic coated piston in my rhino.

used to run one, I usually tried to keep temps under 1250 degrees or so.

Is that a grafted motor, or a TZ750? There used to be one with a TZ750 on juice running around that made about 350hp as well.

Yes it is.

Here is the electronic swap to the front I did.

yes, if you convert it to dc. You may also have to run a battery.

Dynojets are not very accurate. Probably the least accurate out of any dyno I have seen.

I think threads like this are a good way for people to see varying opinions on a matter. There wasn't any need for name calling, nor did I have any animocity towards anyone until that dude started flapping his gums.

All this from a guy who listed his timing in his sig, but doesn't even have his pipes listed. Now I feel schooled.

I would say by the looks of those charts your way over carbed on both those bikes also. I would have 35mm's on the cub, and at the most 33mm's on the stock cylinder bike.

Ok, well are you going to answer the rest of the questions?