your gonna have to match port your v force reed cages to properly line up with the 2 into 1 manifold. V forces are also a mis-matched part for a low-mid setup. I would stick to dual 28mm carbs personally.
I by no means trust you or your dyno numbers. You run stuff so lean on the dyno to squeeze out max hp that you blow up motors when they get sent out the door. That is all your ever worried about is max hp, and thats not how you tune a low-mid setup. I guarantee you that pro circuits and a few other twin pipes will beat out this pipe on the low end, so in my eyes you dont have to bother.
The 304 is the same silencer I run, the 296 is the forest service approved silencer. You want the 304.
http://www.magicracing.com/Pro-Circuit-304-Silencers--Banshee_p_1112.html
Too much rocks, dirt, gravel, and dust. Best dunes in Washington are at Juniper, and they are hard to get access too because of the farmer who owns the land on the road in. It is still dusty as fuck there too.
Staying at the KOA in Coos Bay! Arriving November 4th late in the evening. Will be returning home the morning of the 8th. There is one other HQ member from here going with me. Anyone else going?
Well trail tech makes the MR11 and the MR16 hid lights. Its an all in one housing with only 2 wires going into the light (12v+ and ground), and it can be mounted various ways. Vision X also makes HID lights in an all inclusive housing in several different sizes that can be mounted several different ways. Any Hid system on a two stroke ATV will have to run a battery to handle the 10-15amp startup that the hid lights will need before they stabilize out and run at nominal amperage.
If you dont use trail techs reg/rec (hi efficiency units available for snowmobile applications other places) and you use a 10ah battery it will run a 100w DC fine for hours.
Im not a big fan of hid retro-fit kits, its not worth it for having to mount everything and dealing with water intrusion on everything. The self contained hid's are a better idea, but you pay the price for them.