Snopczynski

Sorry, I am going to Coos bay in a few weeks. Hopefully I never have to go back to florence ever again.

Heres the one they recently did for me.

if its truly low end and technical riding then low tension reeds on stock cages. You can also get special order mid-tension reeds as well. Most aggressive setup I would run is boyeseen carbon dual stage reeds. The vf3's on that motor are a high tension reed designed to move mass amounts of air. You'll never hit the optimum rpm range to see the full benefits of the vf3 setup.

I run 370-380's in my 28mm mikuni tm's with pods at sea level. Milo, you could benefit from a better reed setup.

Im using this with a smaller diameter head. Once I push it into the hole, I am gonna cut the bottom off below the plastics.

Did you put the slides in the correct side (directional). Do you have the choke balance tube on between the two carbs?

I just had my seat done by cascade as well, everything they do looks great.

They have already given baseline specs twice in this thread. There is also a jetting thread in the forum that lists out what everyone has and uses for setups.

It runs like shit because you need to get your baseline jet specs set up for the new pipes. After you set up a baseline you adjust main jet first, then needle, then pilot circuit.

Did you really just measure that with a tape measure at an angle!

so you went from stock pipes to pro circuits?

If there were cylinders that made play bikes into 85-90hp play bikes, then drag cylinders would be the small nitche in the market.

Not painting them. No shiny shit on the bike. I hate laker and fullbore plastics, they are fucking ugly. Paint is a last resort because it doesn't hold up well. Im almost entertaining the thought of mixing some black paint into some epoxy and filling the holes with it. I have a set of brand new black oem plastics.

I am doing an all flat black bike, and I am looking at taking the rear plastics warning label off behind the seat area. There are gonna be 4 holes where the rivets were holding the tag on. There is an example below of which tag I am talking about. Throw some ideas out there for me to ponder. I thought of black rivets with the broken off stems painted, buying black tags, making black tags, acorn nuts and pan head bolts, etc...... Give me some good ideas here. The bike shown is not mine, its for example purposes.

Yeah, I think so too. So I am gonna lock it.

I finally decided to read these Serval Cat threads based on the feedback of another member on here who is a friend of mine. Pretty much all my testing time and dyno time is with low-mid built motors. By no means when this setup was tested did it have any fair chance at really shining as a low-mid setup on the dyno. I feel the pipe selection, compression, and carburetion was a complete mis-match for this cylinder in the dyno test that was done. There really is a lot left on the table for this setup. I recommend getting this setup to AT LEAST 165 psi compression. Get a set of pro circuits on it, and put some 28mm carbs on it. Dont go over 30mm on the carbs. Ideally I would want to see a set of custom carbon tech mid tension reeds put on it, but I would settle for boyeseen carbon dual stage reeds as a backup. With the increased compression get the timing to +5 and get some 50/50 race fuel in it at minimum. Optimally I would run this setup at 175-180 psi compression on full race fuel with as much as +6 timing on it. I would also run a lightened flywheel on it. It would make more torque, accelerate faster, and only lose some holeshot inertia. The dyno charts basically showed peak hp in the optimum operating range of a set of pro circuits. Those pipes like to peak at about 8,750rpm. They come on hard in the bottom. As a low mid motor, you want gobs of torque out of this thing, and thats going to translate to a fast accelerating motor, with good torque backup for difficult hill clims and hairy siuations. Before this cylinder setup was available, we were already taking cub motors, re-sleeving them, and dropping all the ports down. We have two 7mill cub motors with dropped ports. The one with the 2 into 1 lectron 38mm, v-force reeds, and pt mids puts down 87hp. The one the guy let us do the dual 28mm TM's (bored to 30mm), carbon tech custom mid tension reeds, and pro circuits makes 94hp. Only difference is the pipes, reeds, and carbs. The pro circuit dual carb motor made more hp and torque everywhere compared to the pt mid, v-force, single carb motor. That motor also had about 1,500rpm of torque backup which is important when building a low-mid setup. That basically is what allos you to left off the throttle and re-apply after clearing an obstacle all the while not having to drop down a gear. There is a lot left in that serval cat even in selecting better matched parts for what the port timing is setup at. If you could dyno that setup and it pushes out decent stats, you sold me, and I am big time anti-aftermarket cylinder. Nothing in aftermarket cylinders up to this point ever benefited the mx, trails, or low-mid guys without extensive re-working and spending a bunch of cash.

Time and time again with every low-mid motor I come in contact with, the pro circuits have shined over anything else we tested on the motor. I run em, and 5 other people who ride low-mid banshees with me run them. We have ran them on 4 mills, stock strokes, 7mills with aftermarket cyl's, etc.......

You have to log in to view pics. I went to register and saw alf was a sponsor, so now I am going to just pass on that. Mostly because alf is a faggot. http://www.visionxusa.com/LED-Patriot/c1_54/index.html

The top bar vs the bottom bar in even the same difference is going to be a worl of difference because of the projectors on the top bar. They are designed so each bulb is a spot, where the lower bar is a flood. Both LED light bars, both the same size, but one designed for long range light, the other designed to illuminate everything up close. They make both bars in up to 52" of length.

The lights project out plenty far, I can ride 6th gear tapped at night, heres my solstice 2" pod setup vs a stock bike revved up.

Correction, the vision x Solstice 2" lights are 900 lumens. They draw less power than the hid's, they dont have a start up spike like an hid, they dont have the ballast ignition problems hid's have (multiple start up attempts to get the lights to turn on), they run a lot cooler, they are more impact resistant, more waterproof, and have about a 10x longer bulb life than an hid, and you can also interlock the housings to add additional lights. There is a reason why they highlight lighting pics/videos in brush, and its because the lights illuminate close up foliage the best. You can have 1850 lumens, but is worthless if the reflector doesn't focus it properly. I set up my lighting components for distance so I can ride across the sand at night as fast as I want, and so I can see down to the bottom of hills. I can run an HID if I want, but I choose not to because LED is where its at. Here is me fucking with my buddies using my helmet light and inline switch. helmet light vid 2nd helmet light vid

I sell the vision x led helmet lights. They have two battery packs to choose from. One that runs for about 2 hours, and another one that runs about 6 hours. I keep the battery in my kidney belt. Cool thing about vision x solstice lights is that you can hook the housings together. So you can run 1,2,3,etc.........on your helmet.

Why did you come in here and start this post just to stir shit up?

As long as he is riding trails, and as long as the bike is always built towards low-mid, then the pro circuits are going to be the best option.