Snopczynski

Is your float level in the carbs adjusted properly, is the choke balance tube on also? When it doesn't run, does it still have spark every time? Will it start with the choke on? Check those items, then report back.

JJ and A racing makes flush mount valve stems. Click other stuff on the left tool bar, they are a couple items down. JJ and A Racing

you have to run a battery or a capacitor. I dont know if the ac has to be converted to run a capacitor, but it does have to be converted to run a battery. Stock stator converted to dc limits the output with ricky stator type regulator rectifiers. I use reg/recs from a snowmobile company in Wisconsin. All the info on 2 stroke hid lighting can be obtained through trail tech's website for general knowledge of how it works. But, no its not as simple as just bolting on the lights. HID's draw roughly 5-7 amps a piece on startup and the stator cant put out that much juice. Trail Tech technical page

Your gonna need to lap the new flywheel to the crankshaft, then make sure the key is level with the taper on the end of the crank. Start the flywheel, then tighten the nut back up.

6mm bolt is 7ft lbs. You can torque it as long as all the threads are clean.

It already sounds like he may need a new flywheel. If you bang directly on the flyhweel, nick the magnets or heat it up with a torch you will need a new one.

Heat up the flywheel with a torch. Or install the stock puller and bang on the end of the puller with a hammer. Puller is left hand threads.

I run a 10 paddle on a stock motor with pipes ans bolt ons. Everyone else with 4 mills runs 12 paddles, and the one ported 350 runs 11 paddles. All these tires are super lights.

I would say dont be so quick all the time to say things that may or may not be true just because someone did it, and your opposed to it, or think otherwise.

That oval silencer has actually been used quite a bit. FMF, LRD, power pro, and answer all use those designs over the years. Sometimes the silencers will interchange from pipe to pipe also.

I would get at least 10 paddle super lights on 8" rims.

I thought trinity had a cookie cutter pipe made by power pros that they used on all there ported bikes. Here is a cookie cutter banshee pipe from power pros. Biggest thing to note usually between manufacturers is usually the head pipe design. No matter what the pipe is built to do (except for drastic powerband changes), it is usually the same shaped headpipe leading up to the exp. chamber.

I think we have 4 bikes or so that all the electronics are relocated to up in front under the radiator area. We did it mostly because a few of them have subframes, and it looks a little cleaner without all the wiring in the back.

okay, on all the 4 mills with stock type cylinders they run pwk 35's. The 4 mill cheetah bike has a 38mm lectron. Another interesting fact that defies the laws of reasoning is: In 1993 I took 4th place in the modified 350 class at Sandfest. My bike I ran had stock carbs bored to 27mm, and a set of FMF Gold Series pipes. Ultimately I lost in the 3rd to last heat from a bad start and still almost caught the guy at the end of the track. So, I think high hp and dyno numbers play a factor, but biggest thing that makes a bike fast and easy to ride is your setup, and making sure everything you run works well with your portwork and other engine mods. If people say that this guys ort job works well with certain pipes or carbs then you need to stick to that schedule. You sorta need to pick some pipes and carbs that coincide with your portwork. Or tell the engine guy which pipes and carbs you want to run, then have him do the porting based on that.

I run one in the sand as well as 5 other guys I ride with. We even have a couple 4mill strokers with them. Seems to run really well, and no one yet has complained of a power loss.

I hate you for that. :biggrin: We will be there weekend of April 20th.

Looks like a set of pwer pro pipes (they make pipes for Trinity). You can custom order certain exp. chamber sizes, so they look like a one off set.

I am an auto tech also, so you know as well as I do 99% of problems are man induced. You did something wrong, so you need to find it and fix it. If it ran before, it should run now. I would make sure none of the tors wiring is connected, all the tors wiring needs to be open circuit and have the plug ends cut and taped so they dont touch. Make sure the tors module is not hooked up and is removed. The lighting circuit is not associated with the ignition circuit at all, so bigger bulbs would not cause a no start condition. Make sure the yellow and black seperate stator wires are plugged into the right correlating colored wires down on the case also. PM Me if you need more help.

My neighbor used to live in Walla Walla and said he has been there a bunch. He said its not as big as sand lake, but its nice Sand like down in Oregon. I am not sure they paved the road, all the recent info I had on it above was in the "juniper maps" link. The farmers name was Steve Deruyter of 5D Farms. I have actually talked on the phone with him, hes a nice guy. He was just sick of people tearing up his crops, harrassing his cattle and trying to use the phone and bathroom at his house.

Ahhhh yes, the sand lakes flats.

I think he may do better with a different paddle tire.

Ummmm, you will see coolant comeout the overflow line unless you have an overflow tank! I have a 16psi stant cap on mine.

I wouldn't be too quick to say that paddles on grass is stupid. I think back to all the times I drove across my lawn and got yelled at by my dad when I was younger. He was pretty pissed about the chunks of grass missing from my haulers. I would say that sand skate II's arent good paddles for that, but haulers probably work well. Anyone who wants to argue this needs to think about what a snowmobile uses when they do grass drags. 2" reinforced kevlar track that looks like a giant long paddle tire.

Usually happens when you run a advance key, buy a flywheel and dont lap it onto your current crank, dont install the stock key correct or just plain dont get it torqued down right.

If you dont have an overflow tank it inevitable that it will be seen coming out sometimes. If it cools off and the top tank of the radiator doesn't have any you can see in it, then you may want to look into a cool head or add a overflow bottle.