Snopczynski

Dynoport twin in frame pipes? You never said what kind of riding you do.

What mods do you have? What type of riing do you do?

Launch limiter so you can pin the throttle with a rev limiter.

I am upgrading and clearing out my old stuff. http://motors.shop.ebay.com/snopczynski_racing/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_from=&_ipg=

We were trying to let the thead die because an idiot with horrible dyno tuning skills was the one trying to keep it alive. If this other fella that did the R&D knows what he is doing, then this thread would be better off to keep going with his input.

Are you running any race gas in this bike?

The stock cap psi is 16 psi. It is normal for coolant to be spit into the recovery tank.

I run one, and I can feel a difference between running it on an advnced stock curve, and running it on a custom curve I made.

I would like to see dyno charts on those three setups tested with that stock bike. I think you said it was shearer, T5, Fatty pipes. Then also the list of mods done to the bike.

how many tubes of silicone does it take?

I would, it definitely could cause that!

Should have bought new tank plastics instead of a pipe then.........Just sayin!

Yeahhhhhhhh Savage, Good Idea.

Hey, when a world reknown motor builder flips off the camera, you have to post it up somewhere. You guys are gonna lose top end with a serval cat if your running cylinders that are ported with an exhaust duration of more than 188 degrees right now. With the right matched pipes to that setup that motor is never gonna peak over 9,000 rpm because it only has 188 degree exhaust duration. However, your going to make a ton more power down lower in the rpm range, and the bike is still going to feel eye blinding fast. You cant throw a set of mid-top pipes on a low-mid cylinder duration and get mid-top power out of it. Its only going to do what the port durations will let it do. Those dyno charts Andy posted up proved that, the motor only made power to 8,450rpm with a set of CPI pipes on it. CPI pipes are designed to peak later in the rpm range than 8,450rpm. You have to match the pipes, carbs, reeds, timing, and compression to the porting. The porting that comes on this cylinder from the manufacturer doesn't want to make power up over 9,000rpm. That is well under where all these bolt ons that have been tried so far will shine the most. I feel there is still power being left on the table with these cylinders, put the right parts with it, and its going to be amazing. A good majority of the parts being used so far for testing were known at one time as industry leading drag race parts, even some are still used as drag racing parts today. When cpi pipes came out years back, they were the top production drag pipe that you could buy. When you build a drag motor on gas, you use at least 35mm pwk carbs. When you need to flow a ton of air in a drag motor you use vforce 3 reed cages. When you build a motor thats not designed to rev to 9,500 rpm+++++ then you dont use the same parts that you would use in a drag motor. You cannot fully benefit from the operating range of these bolt-ons, and your leaving power on the table because the efficient areas of the pipes, carbs, and reeds are all outside of where this motor operates. Bigger carbs that never flow 100% on this motor because of the rpm it can achieve will also cost you throttle response and intake velocity down low because they are way too big. So there is Torque and HP there that is not being used yet. This cylinder doesn't have a drag duration, it doesn't even have what most motor builders would consider a dune port duration (190-192 dgrees). It just wont simply make max hp where a cpi is designed to make max hp, or even a fatty, or T5 pipe for that matter. There is also more midrange torque and hp left to be made with this thing with a pipe thats designed to come on sooner down low.

There is a screw missing out of the radiator cover........Just sayin!

That dude is a fucking moron.

1) What type of aftermarket exhaust do you have? Pro Circuits 2) What type of airfilter do you have? K&N 3) Air Filter set: Running open pod filters with outerwears. 4) What is your elevation? Sea Level 5) What size pilot jets are you using? 27.5 6) What size main jets are you using? 370-380 depending on outside temperature. 7) What temperature is your Banshee jetted for? 380 for 60 degrees and below, 370 in Summertime. 8) Do you have a port job? Yes 9) What kind of carbs? Mikuni TM's (flat slide) 10) What size carbs? 28mm 11) Needles? N68A needles in center clip position. 2.5 Slide cutout on these carbs for a banshee.

that first 460cc cub motor was done for a guy up here that races his banshee in mx. After that one was done, there were 3 more bikes done with the setup because of the power that the one mx banshee was putting down on the dyno. All 4 of the guys love the motor, its just damn expensive to do, and they were all willing to pay for it to have that kind of power output. 3 of those motors are in banshees that strictly only see sand. The FMF Gnarley is their torque pipe, that was modeled after the old FMF woods pipes they made in the late 80's early 90's.

Daj....That fatty pipe is basically the predecessor of the orignal gold series pipe and the T5 was copied off that. They are a midrange pipe that pulls to about 9,500rpm. So its just a cookie cutter mid-top pipe. The CPI is a way better mid-top pipe, but both pipes are still out of the working power range of that motor. Andy, Duners in my parts are different than Duners in California. I am a Duner, and I run a low-mid setup bike. We have traditional open dune bikes up here, but they dont do well on the sand trails or in the holes. With the duration numbers that were thrown out for the motor, all these parts people are bolting on and testing are setup to peak out of the working rpm range of the serval cat cylinders without any extra porting. The parts are also coming on and making power later in the rpm than what something else better suited would do. CPI's, vf3's, and pwk 35's belong on cub motors, not a bigger bore cylinder with 188 degree exhaust duration. Honestly if you guys rode a low-mid built large bore motor, it would having you re-think the whole idea of a mid-top motor in the sand. We have a 460cc 7 mill cub thats been re-sleeved and had the exhaust set at a lower duration, and the thing is a kick in the ass. Tons of torque, and it just flat out takes off when you roll on the throttle. It runs pc pipes, 28mm carbs bored to 30mm, and mid-tension carbon reed petals on it. I cant remeber the torque number it made on the dyno, but it put down 94hp on the crank dyno still. I just want to make sure you guys realize that you will never see enough rpm for the serval cat to benefit from 35mm pwks, or cpis because of its port durations. Your leaving torque and hp on the table still by the mismatched parts. I wanna know what this thing can do, and I dont think we have even really tapped into that yet. Yes duning is a big market, but what about trails, mx, and people who ride the oregon dunes? Basically, if your not drag racing or just flying up a 400' tall dune wide open, then you can greatly benefit from more low end and midrange torue/hp. I cant express enough how much cooler it feels when a bike accelerates fast through the gears as you roll on the throttle and pulls the weels off the ground vs just having a high top speed and riding it up to that speed pinned at max rpm. Shane has all the bolt-ons it needs and he expressed interest in doing one, and I would be happy to make sure it got dyno tested on the crank dyno. I think the Serval Cat is a great idea, but I think if you properly tested one with all the matching bolt ons, it would truly show what this thing can do, and that in turn would make it even more appealing to everyone with every riding style beside drag racing and open dune riding. I want this setup to succeed, because I still need to do something else, and resleeving a cub motor then putting in a 7 mill crank is a lot more expensive than what a serval cat cost.

Is this a joke? I thougt having pink plastics on it was the gayest you could get, but when you put pink raptor plastics on it, thats definitely full gay.

I think it is going to depend on how good the swap is done. There is usually no counter balancer in dirt bike motors, and properly modifying the exhaust is gonna be tough. I say it comes down to how good of a fabricator and tuner he is. I think if I had to make a decision, bike to bike I would say banshee. But that 450 setup with a good pipe, properly mounted, and properly tuned would be fairly fast. You need to tell him that we are not saying this stuff because we all own banshees, its going to come down to bike setup, power, tuning, and rider. Sounds like the banshee has all that so far.

Im not real interested in what it does with the setup your running or with the one you want to try still. I want to see something based around low-mid power with the parts matching. Everything you got on there is mid-top, and the other setup you want to run is even more mid-top. Those reeds, pipes, and carbs are not a good match for what this motor is supposed to be designed for. Small carbs, low-mid reeds, and low-mid pipes is what needs to be ran on this thing for it to shine.

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You have to do a dc conversion, with battery, and reg/rec. You can use the stock stator depening on your battery size and light wattage.