Snopczynski

make sure the plugs not fouled, and the carb choke balance tube is on.

I fill up my cooling system with maxima coolanol to the top in the radiator. Fill the overflow bottle to the low mark when its cold. Make sure the radiator cap is past the first detent and fully seated at the stop when you turn it to the right.

what oil and what ratio are you using?

Hello?

Thats a tough feat to accomplish making more power everywhere. I personally feel the best fitted pipe to increase power over a wide range is something like an fmf gold series. Good low to mid can be had from the pro circuits. The dynoport 2 into 1 pipe with a small dynoport clean up port job will get you power all the way across the board to about the intermediate top end of what a Banshee can achieve for rpms. The T5 seems to make improvements mostly mid-top. Advancing timing will help low-mid power but it will be a minute improvement thats not really all that noticeable.

Are you sure the cap was on all the way? Seems like a coincidence that it did it all of a sudden after you had just put coolant in it. Its normal for it to come out of the overflow hose, thats why they have a catch bottle stock. When the system cools off it sucks the fluid back into the radiator.

With the way you described it being wired now the tail light would be on all the time. Are you sure your not mistaking the tail light wire with the voltage regulator wire?

Well if you let him off, let him leave you feedback, then nail him with a negative after that. As for now I would contact ebay and demand they suspend the guys account for messing around with your auction.

I got rid of my brake light and put on a led tail light also. Do you have a digital multi meter or a test light?

How would you like the power delivery of the bike to be like?

Thats why it sucks when people want to know this stuff, everyone thinks something different for the answer. :biggrin: I remember seeing in an issue of 3 and 4 wheel action about 7 years ago they stated the banshees stock hp in a pipe shootout was 34hp (that was on LRD's dyno though). Personally in a drag race, I think a stock 450 will whomp on a stock Banshee.

you said in the first post that you didn't want the brake light.

Well here is a ported 350 in my motor guys shop on a land and sea crank dyno that made a consistent peak 71 hp.

Why? We could give you factory rated hp, but unless you dyno the bike the same way the factory does and on the same dyno it wont be accurate. What are you looking to do to the bike? Or tell someone? What do you want the bike to do?

just trace back the tailight and switch connector circuits and gut out the wiring. Your rear light has 3 wires cause its a brake light and a tail light.

as long as the single is 33mm or bigger, it will perform better and make more power than a set of stock carbs.

well do whatever makes the bike rev higher with the switch. I believe when the contact in the end is all the way out is when the limiter is on.

head domes first.

So, I am pretty well known amongst my friends and family as the Banshee guy. Last Saturday we were at a friends house partying and some weird tall guy showed up with my cousins boyfriend. He started talking to my cousin (he didn't know me) and asked him if he saw the new 550cc 4 stroke Banshee that was coming out. I almost shit myself when this kid said that. I asked him where he saw it, and he said in dirtwheels. I asked him if it was the April issue, he said it was a newer issue than that. I told him it was false news and he probably saw it in the April issue, and that dirtwheels does that joke every year. He told me I was wrong, so I told him they still made the 350cc banshee and sold it in Europe, Canada, and Mexico. He than said, well I guess we will just have wait and see who is right. What a boner!

I wouldn't run twin carbs, I dont like them much, you especially dont tneed them if you have a mx port job and mostly ride trails and some sand. You just need a little bigger single. The keihin 34mm pj is a whore to jet and get to run right.

Porting isn't really decided on what carb setup you want to run, its decided on how you want your power delivery to be like. A 2 into 1 carb setup will work great with anything but a full on drag port job. We have bikes with stock, mild port, 4mill stroker, and 6mill motors running 2 into 1 intakes and they run awesome in the sand and on the trails. You just need to buy the proper size carb for what motor you build. Unless you go really big stroke, a pwk 35mm carb seems to work awesome across the board.

tors makes the bike not run at all. The emergency brake switch has a low rpm govenor, it sounds like thats what your dealing with. What year is the bike? If you disconnected the switch and it doesn't rev, then you need to ground the switch wire for it to run right. Disconnect all the tors plug ins, and dont forget the tors module under the gas tank also. None of the tors wires should be touching each other.

I like coolheads cause you can always upgrade the domes for compression, mill em for strokers, and just replace them if you launch a piston or a rod.

I would do like a pwk 35mm or a 36mm tmx. Also some carbon tech low-mid reeds, advance the timing 6 degrees and a cascade heavy duty clutch.

What did you do to the cylinders?