Snopczynski

All of the high hp K&T bikes I have seen run methanol. Thats a huge advantage over 110 octane.

your gonna burn up the relays if you dont convert to ac and run a battery. It wont work. Its varying voltage alternating current. To run a relay you need steady dc current.

The a/c output at idle wont keep a relay latched, you have to have a battery and a dc conversion.

Ok, two things with this ass on ebay. That guy is a liar, he used to lie about stator auctions for yamaha rhinos. I called him out on it and even notified ricky the guy was selling his products and lying. Then, if thats not Ricky's stator, then this rm guy went to ricky's vendor and is buying them straight from the source. Cause that is the same timing plate, same stator windings, and even the same connector as a rs unit. Beware of this rm guy, he is a douche and a liar.

ok first, are you sure you were using the meter right? What happens if you plug the right headlight into the left side socket?

24 hours in a 65 + degree enviroment..

You need to back off the wattage on the system and make sure your run an rs voltage regulator. Then typically to keep the harness cool and from melting to other wires, you run it seperate from the main harness.

Actually max power rpm on the dynoport is higher than the pro circuits, and pt mids. The torque curve is smaller than the pc's, and the pt mids though.

need to check the voltage regulator. When you check the voltage out of the stator unhook the yellow wire completely from the harness and check it. It will only put out aroun 11.5-14 volts ac at 6k rpm.

ok, well you have 2 keihin pwk's now. The 2 into 1 only had 1 keihin pwk. So why do you think jetting 2 is easier than jetting 1?

So what size jets did you run in it? What needle? You have to be the first person I have ever heard say "It sucked to jet a 2 into 1 carb". My 21 year old girl cousin who has a banshee can jet her 2 into 1 carb. Thats how easy it is. About 90% of the 2 into 1 setups I come across, have the wrong needle in them. In turn they run like shit. Convince yours didn't have the wrong size needle or main jet in it! Top end loss in my experience is minimal and almost un-noticable, we use pipes that sign off at 8200-9000 rpm too. I ride holes, climb dunes, and even drag race with my 2 into 1 carb. Not only that, I ride with about 6 other people that run that intake setup, and they love it. We even have a guy with a 7mm 460cc cheetah motor that puts out 92 hp on a 2 into 1 setup with a 38mm lectron on it. So plead your case and prove me wrong.

Is this from experience? Cause I have one and I like it.

The 2 into 1 is more of a mx pipe. Once you get up in the power curve on it, it will easily stay on the pipe. You want something like pro circuits or pt mids. If your geared right both those pipes ought to work decent for both types of riding.

I have a cousin who is 27 and just has a hard time with spelling, math and reading. No big problem with me on this topic. One thing you could do is get a google toolbar. It has a spellcheck in it. Just click the check button and it pulls up all the incorrect spelling in bold red text. Then you can click it and fix it.

Try an eej needle middle clip, 185 main jet, 50 pilot jet, air screw 1.5 turns out. Adjust from there. You may also want to get an eek needle and try it out.

People cut and reweld them for mini stroker motors.

Its a toomey T3.

Low-mid pipe, signs off at 8700 rpm. Still carries a very broad power curve.

The pro circuit isn't a drag pipe. It signs off at 8700 rpm, where as cpi's sign off at 10,000+ rpm. Pro circuits are designed to make a ton of torque and midrange power. However, they do pretty well drag racing on a bike built for midrange power. In our group, I usually win and I run them.

Cascade and trinity make them.

Check the flywheel rivets for looseness.

cascade 2 into 1 intake with a 35mm pwk.

pro circuits are nickel plated steel just like an fmf pipe. The stainless is special order and cost about $1000 for just the pipes.

Raising transfer port height will make the power band stronger across the entire rpm range, but its based upon exhaust duration as to how well it works. Thats why I say increase transfer window area a scoche on the corners (square up the port) and widen the transfer port windows in the sleeve a little bit to match the aluminum casting of the cylinder. Leave the bump in the auxillary transfer port radius just behind the opening. Thats what directs the auxillary transfer flow. The open time of the exhaust (duration) relies on wether the exhaust scavenges the transfers, otherwise you have to rely on transfer case pressure to push the charge out into the cylinder. We can make a better recommendation if you measure your exhaust port height relative to the deck on the top of the cylinder.

We are gonna put the 2 into 1 vs dual carbs setup hype to rest in a few weeks here. We are gonna run my motor on a crank dyno with my 2 into 1 setup. Then run a set of bored 28mm mikuni tm (28mm originally) carbs on it after that. Then we will have some comparisons charts to go off of as to what does what and where.