Snopczynski

The new trail techs have a rubber grommet around the bulb.

Naval Jelly http://www.loctiteproducts.com/products/de...47&plid=169

Your end adjuster may be starting to weld itself to the ball in the mainshaft. You may have to split the cases and get a mainshaft. I would pull the clutch cover and remove the adjuster and check it. PUll the ball out with a magnet and look at it as well.

Yeah they are brighter than stock.

Its going to depend on your porting. You need to check your compression and tell us what it is. More than likely you will need high octane on 18cc domes.

That worked better. I would say its a little rich, but it depends on how you were running it before it got shut off.

The caps were on from quickbooks at work. I didn't feel like retyping it.

I CANT TELL MUCH FROM THOSE PHOTOS. HOW DOES IT RUN?

Your hardly a cadidate for a drag port with the chassis setup and limited knowledge you have. Start off with stock or something easy to tune and ride. Work your way into it. Along with drag race parts comes the need for knowledge to tune and wrench on the bike alot to fix and fine tune how it runs.

IF THE FOOT LEVER MOVED UP, THEN THE SHIFT SHAFT IS BENT, AND THE RETAINER PRONGS THAT GO ON THE SHIFT STAR PEGS ARE NO LONGER CONTACTING.

The dyna on curves 1, 2, and 3, makes a feel-able difference in how the bike runs. Curve 3 is especially noticeable, its got a bunch of advance at early rpm and lasts up through the top. I run curve 3 with some advance added to the program, and its been a justifiable investment for me. I had to put it on curve 4 (stock) when I was diagnosing my bad plug cap, and I hated every minute of riding with that curve.

It will lower it to an extent, and make it an extremely innefficient running motor. The port heights in a motor are like the camshaft of a 2 stroke. You cant just mismatch parts and expect it to do what you want because you put a low end or midrange type part on it. The motor is ported to maintain a certain velocity and running efficiency. Its only going to respond to a point, and even then its going to be limited on its output. Thats why people say you cant have a bike that does it all. Shearers are reknowned for being a great topend pipe. K&T is well known for making great drag race motors. Hence, someone built a drag motor and put a drag race pipe on it. My guess is he bought it, rode it, and doesn't like the power delivery because he is play riding a drag motor.

The early stuff will be more than likely lighter weight, but weaker frames. The late model bikes have extra gussets and re-inforcement brackets on the frame for strength. The J-arm front end will be weaker, but lighter. They are also a little more prone to wearing out faster.

Right off the bat I cant tell what the hell is going on here now. However by jetting numbers in the first post it doesn't seem right on a set of mikuni 28mm carbs. I run a ported 350 with pods and exhaust at a 380 main jet with 28mm tm's. Elevation and parts on the bike are going to effect this though. This sounds like it started off as a jetting problem, but may have evolved into something else. Best way to check the flywheel key without removing the flywheel, is to pull the cover and check the piston position compared to where the magnet runs past the pickup coil. Take the time on your posts to spell correctly and use punctuation. It will help is to understand what your trying to say and help you in return.

I like castor 927 alot, it burns well, and has taken my motor through 2 years of abuse. You get what you pay for, so watch out for oils sold at low costs and that are available at auto parts stores or minimarts (pennzoil).

It doesn't quite work like that. You have a high exhaust port, the pipe has to match it to work properly. He is going to have to change cylinders and pipes to get the power down lower at an earlier rpm.

Your pipes and port work are going to be the biggest factor on how your power delivery is. You more than likely have a very high exhaust port, and shearers are a top end pipe.

Now you say "yours" but I clearly listed my bike and two others that have had good results converting from the single to twin carbs. We also had a 7mm 460cc resleeved cheetah motor on the dyno (one of those bikes). Setup 1 was a 38mm single lectron with pt mids (base jetted run 87hp). Swapped the pt mids out for pro circuits and got an additional 5 hp and a broader torque curve with the pc's (92 hp run). Then we swapped the single 38mm lectron to a set of mikuni 28mm tm flatslides bored to 30mm and los .5hp at 6,500 rpm or so and gained 2 more hp through the midrange and topend (94hp run). The gain from the single setup is minimal and unoticeable at best compared to a good set of duals. The redline on this motor was around only 8,700 rpm as well. The other thing you have to watch is the torque curve. Midrange wise the torque curve was better on the duals than the single because of where final hp numbers end up. A .5 hp loss at 6,500 rpm is barely just wicking onto the throttle, and the gain to be had by a single then falls under the twin carb curve very soon after because of the broad torque curve that proper intake velocity helps to build. I also saw a comment on here a few days ago that the single carb makes it easier to jet for twin cylinders because sometimes one cylinder may demand more fuel than the other. This is false. If a cylinder demands more fuel on one side than the other, than your either going to end up with a lean cylinder or rich cylinder on a single carb. You will never have both cylinders recieving the perfect amount of fuel if one is demanding more fuel than the other. So no, unlike some on here I do not make unjustified or un-researched claims or product feedback posts based on what I am considered to be biased to. I use to be a 2 into 1 advocate, obviously now I am not. Thats because I did the testing and research to justify the claims I have made on the setup. Its a waste of money and time to run a single carb setup fore those thinking about the switch. For those with singles, its up to you if its worth converting back to a proper set of duals to gain 2-5 mid-top hp, and not notice a low end power loss. For those who got a single carb for an easier thumb throttle, grow a set and get a twist throttle. :biggrin: JK!

Totally is TRUE, I have several dyno sheets to prove it, and I have 2 banshees + my own that I have converted back to twin carbs and the owners are verry happy. Going from stock carbs to a 2 into 1 intake you will notice more power from a 2 into 1. Going from a 2 into 1 intake to a set of 28mm flatslides you will notice no difference in bottom end, and you will notice a huge gain in midrange and topend power. You guys are wasting your time with single carb setups. In most cases you can buy twin carbs with air filters and a cable for less than one of those single carb kits.

Carbs dont really determine max rpm hp limits. Its pipes and porting more than anything. I haven't been much of an advocate for twin pipes or carbs for more than a year now. I run pro circuits, and twin 28mm mikuni flatslide carbs now. My redline is 8,650 rpm, and its a dune bike. Just because you ride trails doesn't make you a canidate for a 2 into 1 pipe or carb setup. Do a search, I posted some dyno results from last winter on the comparison from 2 carbs to 1. You lose about 5 hp on the top, and only gain about 1 hp on the bottom with the 2 into 1 setup.

Unless your running as drag bike, get different reeds.

I was an Audi and a Saab Technician for 8.5 years. I wouldn't trust the Matco or Craftsman compression tester as even close to being a viable piece of equipment. He is right about the craftsman, it does some weird stuff at higher compression readings. My Mac one is the only one I will use.

They dont make monster power on the bottom end compared to a good set of twin carbs. The difference on the bottom will be un-noticeable. However, you lose quite a bit of topend. Buy a set of 28mm flatslides, it will cost about the same and make more power.

Well I tested my banshee with 18cc domes in it, and it said it had 145 psi compression on one, and 150 psi in the other. I took my certified mac tester and rechecked it, got 185 psi on the mac. I had the matco guy replace my gauge, and it still read 145 psi on the new gauge.