hollisatp

well I got a pro design head.. is it supposed to come with copper washers?? I have the white sealer that I used on the cases.. Is that good enough?

I installed a used cool head with new o-rings and three of the bolts are leaking coolant through them onto the top of the head.. Any help?

also.. I want to get rid of the T connection for my vent hoses.. can I just take it out and create a "U" shape so its hard for water to get it and be ok??

nah, warped it last run.. got a cool head now.. but I got a warped one for ya if you need it for your collection?? LOL

hmmm I might have a bad cap then cause I kept spilling coolant.. Actually I couldnt keep it in. When it got hot, it would all spill out! I thought it might have been from my head being warped adding pressure to my water jacket which was forcing it out... shoould I go stock or is there a better cap? also I did find a post a while back but cannot find it... is it important for the overflow to be in an exact spot inorder for it to work? or does anywhere up front work?

I have done a bunch of searches but cannot find instructions on how to do it properly... anyone got a link or instructions?

hmm maybe there is a bit of lock tight in the bottom that is keeping the screws from bottoming out...

I have leaks from all sides in between the reeds and the boots. At first it was huge and I could not get any pressure at all. So I made a second set of gaskets so I would have one on each side of the reed. I still have tiny tiny bubbles of air coming out. I have the screws tightned down all the way but no go.. any help???

Dude for another $11 you can get a bunch more bang for your buck... Id say go for the Vapor from trail tech...$100... even seen some for less than $90 on flea bay!!!! My 2c

how important is it do perform a leakdown test?

Anyone know who sells a good quality one?

Hey all my cousin just bought a bike and I wantyed to know if anyone had a site for him to join like this one? Thanks and Happy Turkeyday!!

anyone else have some info??

yeah.. should be....

The arrows are supposed to align when at rest. this is the zero setting when the clutch is engaged. set those to align, I believe it is done with the cover off and you adjust the philips screw in the middle of the clutch basket. Watch as you turn the screw to align the arrows on top of the case. Then you go to the lutch leverr adjustment.....

ok.. sounds like an adjustment.. do you have a clymers manual? There is a correct way to adjust the clutch. First try tightening the adjustment on the clutch handle itself. this would be the easiest. loosen the nut, tighten it all the way until you feel loose play in the clutch. Then tighten it until you can feel the pressure plate tap the clutch basket. I am assuming you have the whole clutch and gear oil already in place. Just sounds like you have it adjusted too tight that it will not disengage..

the pressure plate IS the only thing that should move.. sounds like that part is built correct.. gas sitting in your carbs is not a good thing for a long period of time.. I took mine off recently while doing a rebuild, no gas, just the oil left. Could be clogging the air intake needle.. Did you try to put a small amount of gas dirctly into the cylinder? I have a spray bottle the I put some freah gas in, open the carbs fully, the give it about two mists in each. This should at least tell you if it is your carbs, or electrical... But I would definately clean the carbs.

I had it milled and had the same problem.. I warped it, two seprate heads! I am waiting on a cool head to arrive before I do a leakdown test. I am guessing this is going to give me my ultimate answer... If the seal in the case is ok... what else could make the gear oil puke out?? It also pushed out coolant as if pressure was getting into the water jacket... I think the coolant got into the gear casefirst casue the gear oil was gray...

take a look at the top of your case where the cable connects. Are the arrows lined up there?

I did.

yeah I did that.. used the white silicone sealer.. replaced the yamabond.. cant remember the name.. Im just dredding splitting the cases again.... I did warp the head, could that have been the cause?

make sure you have the pressure plate on properly.. I did the same thing and put it back on without aligning the arrows together.

SO I am close to being done with the rebuild and found a post talking about the guys motor puking gear oil.... This happened to me the last time I rode it and melted the piston.... I think I need to reseal the case again??? I am going to try a leak down test first but is that the only answer, blown case seal?? Thanks!!

Does anyone think that there could be a new section filled up with the best deals on anything? People could post what they find for deals, pay for their work,(by known shops), and prices for mod level changes....??? I think it would attract sellers.. dont mean to spoil the bunch, but make it into a free market deal!! Give them a rating (1-5) , + or - for would buy again (Y or N), and bang for the buck, (stage 1,2,3)....???????? Make it into a new section where people could find out what it take to go from one level to another... ported to milled head, reeds to advanced timing, larger carbs to 4mm set-up. Answers have to have full info. cost of everything $$$$ to get you from point A to point B.... I think this could be a good forum on here....... LOL, ok or just tell me I'm crazy!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!111 yeah Ive hade a few beers but I constantly find myself asking questions that are only complicated in that section. It would be great to get all those answers in one forum...

wow... I dig when I learn something about a part I thought I knew... anyone have an age or life span on theirs set on low??? If it was over a year, I would go with it! I would like a snappier bottom... dont really get to the top of the rmp range when shooting dune to dune...