shanYE west

34pj

Try a search.. its been covered millions of times...

I would just convert the pwks and call it a day..

why not just order a set from Dave Noss and support one of the site sponsors?

threebond was making the yamabond.

If you got it out.. and it looks good.. I definately true and weld it.

I use threebond 1104 or 1211. I forget the new number off hand for the 1104.

I've seen some hold.. some fail.. Its a roll of the dice. Its cheap insurance.. and its very easy to split the cases.

dipped in heshey syrup sounds pretty rich to me. do a leak down test and see what you find. check to make sure your reeds arn't broke. Did you have the timing plate off? if so.. dbl check your pick up coil gap.

stage 2 turbonator.. And its game over.

Bump for a pratically new set up tires!

Fair enough. :beer:

Is a dual piston setup really needed on the rear? Whats the advantage of a dual piston rear vs a single piston rear.? I've always found the single piston rear to be more then enough even on my 450. I do however like the idea of return springs and opposing pistons for zero drag.

Nope.. Only 1 ray.. I think JD is working on some!

10mil what? and where do you race/ride?

If you "need" to resleeve and your not looking for a pure drag engine.. I suppose it might be a viable option... I wasn't overly excited about them.

The ones Redline is selling are brand new for $150 shipped.

Its been 9yrs on a set of pistons? I think you've found your problem. Them pistons have to have been tired. What size domes are you using?

have you tried taking some weight off the lockup? at lower RPM's the lockup would apply less pressure to the pack.. perhaps helping it slip a tad on the launch until RPMS picked up again... I'd say its worth a shot.

Shouel plan trip on the weekend of the 25th.. There is a race @ WMSD that weekend also.

I'm guessing he's refering to "creeping" Good point on the actuator arm. definately something to look at. :thumbsup:

shift forks maybe.... wont know forsure until you split the cases.

you mean larger bore.. The stroke has nothing to do with the name. Calvin has stuff bigger then the DMX too. A DM is not for everyone.. IMO.. it should only be used on the hill and track. Straight line only. Also.. the person should know his/her way around a banshee engine or have a competent mechanic near by that is familiar with the DM. Because when your pushing 130+hp stuff is going to break... its not a matter of if... its a matter of when..

Kiel.. I know you know know what your doing in there so I'll skip the stupid stuff. If all clutch components are good/new. Best way I adjust my clutch is.. Turn the adjuster in until it touches.. then back off about 1/8-1/16 of a turn. Can't always go by the arrows. I try to use a thinner oil.. My opinion is that it pentrates the plates easier. Perhaps a stretched clutch cable?

Redline is selling some new ones http://forums.atvdragracers.com/index.php?...ic=4351&hl=