shanYE west

I dont know if I already listed on here or not but.. I'll do it again if so.. lol http://s78.photobucket.com/albums/j102/fouledout/Banshee/?action=view&current=P8010674.jpg My rad cover for my custom drag radiator

I dont "sport" anyone.. I go with what works and whats proven. I have used chariot cages and I like them, they work. If someone told me they found a piston from a 95 YZ9'er that out performs anything out there.. I wouldn't be going around telling people its true without seeing the data to back it up or using them myself to collect my own data. yeah.. Blaster cages probably are cheaper.. but.. If they're cheap and better.. Dont you think with as long as they've been around someone else would have used them long before now? especially with with the drag industry being as heated as it is to find every little bit more and spending millions of dollars every year in R&D. To each their own... Run'em.

I used them in my cousins banshee awhile ago.. Put about 4-5 hard seasons on them. He claims he could notice a seat of the pants difference in power. He did pretty well in his heads up class. Only thing that beat him was a crf450 dirt bike.. Also used one in one of my blasters.. I could notice it being a lil more peppy.. It also held up quite well.. as far as I know its still going strong and that was about 6-7yrs ago. Thats the extent of my experience with them. No dyno sheets or anything.

Using bigger cages from other bikes is nothing new to banshee's.. builders were adapting yz125 reeds awhile back. There is a reason they dont do it anymore. It wasn't worth it.. The VF's do a great job on the bottom-mid and can flow enough on top to support banshee's around 500cc's. so restriction is not a issue. I'll believe it when I see flow data or sheet from a reputable dyno that a blaster cage is better then a VF. I like the chariot cages cuz they do just as well as the VF's on the bottom thru mid and flow enough on top to feed the smaller drag builds, and their about 60 bucks less. Their just a better bang for the buck for most builds is all..

I do think there is a learning curve.. To jump right into a big build like a DM or DMX with no experience.. is going to be a expensive way to learn from your mistakes. most people usually go through a few topends before they understand how to tune alky. I'd start with a 10mil cub and learn with that. A 10mil cub has the potential to run 4.1's and 4.0's with a heavy rider and parts are ALOT cheaper. I know.. probably not what you wanted to hear but...

I agree, Nate builds a MEAN 4mil cub.. I miss mine!

I think I switched oils 4 times this year.. lol Yamalube is good oil.. Never had a problem with it. If your fouling plugs then your jetting is off. Factory jetting is usually rich. I keep all my mixes with gas at 32:1 No need to lean the ratio, You wont see any worthwhile gains in power.

For some reason it won't let me edit my post.. My personal favorite for the smaller builds (4mils and less) would be the chariot cages with dual stage reeds. Jerry has done lots of flow testing with them while designing them.

I disagree.. Do you have any flow data to back this up? Most builds short of a pure drag build can't even take full advantage of a VF cage.

Bill (Redline) on ATVdragracers.com bought that guys stock. If anyone is interested might want to hit him up over there for a price. I know I'll be getting a set or two from him next season.

I've made complete 300' passes with the fuel off while using them boss billet bowls.. Definitely got some other issues going on.

That animation was great! sometimes a picture IS worth a thousand words.. lol VERY good info!

Well.. you can leave it straight up with both lockups.. but you'll spill oil everywhere. You gotta tip the bike to get all the oil to the other side of the cases. But.. the undercover slingshot I have wont fit through my Modded cover where the standard style slingshot and the DD (Finger stlye) lockups would fit through.. So I have to drain my coolant before I mess with the clutch since I have to totally remove the cover to take off the lockup. I could leave the cover on with the other styles when doing clutch maintenance.

You have to tip the bike on its side for the finger style lockups too.

Long rods do have less rod angle wich lets the assemble spin more freely and less stress on cylinder walls.. Thus creating a potential increase in upper RPM performance.. But.. Longer rods do have more dwell time at TDC and BDC. I've heard from some builders that actually prefer the short rods. saying they make the power faster over a long rod. As Dave said.. I've yet to see any proof of the increased power of a long rod over a short.

I'm pretty sure you meant SST's. Reed cages wont get back the midrange. CPI's are a drag pipe.

So this is the under cover slingshot then? not the standard version?

any pics of the slingshot?

I agree.. the bel-ray is good stuff!! I made the switch from the wax to the bel-ray.. I wont go back. Chris... You still need to lube your x-ring chain or the seals will dry out. I clean my x-ring in diesel fuel with a soft nylon brush.. take it out.. dry it off.. then spray it down with some bel-ray super clean.

LOL I told JT the same thing! I heard your being a sisified tweety bird and not making it!? what gives? Its not quite the same without carrying your purse/camera around.. lol

I got some work to do in the morning.. gonna have to do some work when I get there.. Just gonna have to put a chain on and change a clutch pack. Nothin to major.

Dont suppose I could barrow the 16pdls for the weekend? Actually.. I just need them for friday. I can run my rippers on saturday. I just need to see if I need to buy another set of tires this winter.

JT let me know what he needs.. I'll bogart what I can from boo's bike.

He said thats not a problem JT. You've done enough for him this year.

He wants too but its not looking good. My sis just started a new job today. So it looks like its gonna be me and the wife.. she shouldn't go into labor this time. lol