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shanYE west

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Everything posted by shanYE west

  1. I was using 15/42 or 14/40.. I was using 13 extremes with 2lbs of pressure. worked the best for me.
  2. You have to factor in labor.. Time is money.. even if its your time. If you enjoy doing it thats great. Not taking anything away from that. A 4mil cub on gas is going to make 100hp and would be dunner friendly.. might not have the same fuel consumption.. but.. it will be faster. The power to weight ratio of these builds is a big down side not to mention the power loss once they're transplanted into the quad chassis. I agree with tyler.. Cool builds and all. but.. I just think there is better options for some people.
  3. tire pressure?
  4. EVERY one I've seen has been a turd.. except one.. I'm not impressed at all by them... Keep in mind.. these big power motors will loose 15-20%hp when the get transplanted into a quad chassis. I've beating 90% of the ones I raced with my lil 4mil cub. And I've been beatin by stock stroke stock cylinder builds... Its still cheaper to do a banshee based motor by the time you factor in labor, and it will be faster.
  5. dont think of it as a # but rather a % of gain 5-7hp is a nice chunk. its a 15-20% gain in power No other supporting mods are needed.
  6. no where near a grand for a 4mil... maybe a extra 450.00
  7. I should have said 7hp +/- depending on the porting.
  8. about 5hp..
  9. because you have the option.. either send a mo.. or pay with paypal. I never met someone that turned down a MO..
  10. what more could you possibly ask for?
  11. They clog pretty easily and sometimes if the rangers are dicks.. they wont let you pass.. even though it is approved screen. Been down that road.. Just get the clamp on's... its a sure deal.. no questions asked.. they just waive you through..
  12. Its a convenience fee.. If the buyer dont want to pay the fee's.. then send a MO.. I dont charge the fee on the smaller items.. but on the more exspensive stuff I have to otherwise I'm taking a hit on what I need to get out of a item.
  13. a 10mil cub should be within 5hp of a 4m DM cub.. 10mil cubs are 120ish +/- and 4mil dm's are usually 125ish +/- So they are pretty evenly match.. it will come down to setup and rider.
  14. yep.. if it helps you sleep better.. go ahead and do it. Not like its gonna hurt anything.
  15. Still not a needed item..
  16. Whats the purpose for this build? drag racing?
  17. Your probably talking about UAE.. I think it might be.
  18. Thats about what I figured.. Thats about the same trap speed I had on my 4mil and I was runnin 4.1's with a 1.45 60'... so that guy must be turnin out some 1.1's 60's with no bar. I dunno... just not quite adding up in my book.
  19. send a pm to sheefreak.. he can get you the details and where to get the stuff.
  20. send pics please. My cousin is looking for one and thats in his price range. [email protected]
  21. Alot of the guys are using turbo tube to mount them.. I really dont care on mine so I mount them direct.. it only scratches the outer edge of the endcap.. not the body.. scratches are barely visible.
  22. probably would be best to leave that decision to the builde since they will want certain specs for their build.
  23. I really dont me to come across as being a negative or anything like that but.. I think a 140hp is going to be hard to get out of a 10mil (535) cheetah unless its on a generous dyno. Rather then base this decision off HP numbers that vary so much from dyno to dyno, it would be a better idea to base it off the size of the build. IMO anything over 600cc's would be a good point to start using a billet 2nd. If you got it apart and dont mind shelling out the coin... Why not?..at least it will be there for when you go bigger. But.. I dont think its needed for a motor that size.
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