SAVAGE420

As said above, you want the claws to sit exactly like how mine is here bottom and top. Just don't lock tight the eccentric screw in, use the lock washer only. Sometimes it takes a couple times to get it set right, but if its off even a mm off it wont shift like it should. Only takes a few seconds to get it perfect.

There cast as a set. Like i said you can do it, but if it were me i would replace together.

I wouldn't take a chance. Lil bit of air leakage or trans oil sucking in is a big no no in my book and could be catastrophic. I know it's not what you want to hear but it's the truth.

It's always best to replace them as a set. There cast as a set from Yamaha. Not saying you cant, but it's best to do them as a set. You ever split the cases before?

So what exactly are you wanting to do inside? You will still have to take off the clutch, bearing plate and the timing plate also ether way you go about splitting.

So your wanting to just replace the lower case? Or just get in there and fix/change something without taking the top end off?

Laker Customs.

Good times.

I say there will be 50-100 at one time like normal days.

Good to see ya!

Welcome new old member. Let the fun begin Jeff hooks up.

That would be cool and all, but it was reset last year with the new forum and server change. The original record was 557 on Jun 28 2007, 04:05 PM. I think that will be hard to beat now the way people are getting out of the game. But hell, i'll be on. The old forum looked old as hell.

By "set back" do you mean its pushed in or out some?

I drain my carbs and tank. Take that fuel and throw it in my snowblower, then go inside and make a sandwich and call it a day.

You never go to moses and those places near by to even get a quick lil sand fix?

Wish i was going back this season.

I got it from Modquad 3 years ago. Some people say they don't like the billet case savers and like the plastic type better. Ive never had one problem with it. Fits perfect and nice and tight with a 15T sprocket so if heaven forbid i ever did throw a chain theres no room for it to bind up and crack my cases anyways. I have never seen one pic or heard of cases still being cracked with a billet saver ever. For $20 i had nothing to loose, does its job.

Any update drag_banshee?

Ok, first settle down cause its not a big deal at all. Second, no need too start 2 separate threads about this. Third, i covered this yesterday. If you would have used the search button at the top you would have seen it Sam. Easy fix. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=135300&view=&hl=&fromsearch=1

I used to run the 30's and they came with JJH needles straight from CPW. I then got some N80F's and they were close, then finally got some N68A's and i found them to be Much better for my motor/mods and altitude. Going off a standard JJH needle ( N80F needle was close), and comparing with other needles. GJH: leaner taper, so leaner at ½-¾ throttle. LJH: richer taper, so richer at ½-¾ throttle. JJK: leaner diameter, so leaner towards ¼ throttle. JJF: richer diameter, so richer towards ¼ throttle. Bunch more.

I would throw the 20's in and see where the motor kicks for comp and run 91-94oct. Im sure you will be fine.

You're right with the right stinger tube being the slightly longer one. Pass me a wobbly pop next time

Yup, perfectly fine. It's 100% synthetic also which is great. 40:1 and call it a day.