SAVAGE420

It will be fine. I ran mine all last year like that, with proly 40Hr+ of riding and it stayed just as tight. I just put a lil blue lock tight on and hit it hard with an impact wrench. :thumbsup:

Yeah, that's pretty damn F*ckin fast for sure + good service. Good job Tim! :thumbsup:

Go clean the filter really well and let it dry completely then go for a rip. If its dirty, your really rich and that's why the bog. :ninja: Also of course it had good spark BEFORE this problem beacuse you say it ran good. But you should check iit now too since it could be something electrical also....takes 1 minute to check for spark.........

First things first. Whats your mods temp elevation? Do you know how its jetted, pilot, needle main.? Do you know the diff from being lean or rich? Could be something stupid like a dirty as hell air filter (rich) or an air leak (lean) or even dirt or some crap in your tank that got sucked into your carbs. Do you have clear fuel lines? If so when you turn on the pet cock do you see fuel flow quick and fill the lines? Did you go through mud/water just before this or really dust conditions? I bet its your air filter just clogged up and dirty. Do a compression check on both sides and tell us what they read. Also tell what your plugs look like when you take them out just so you have somewhat of an idea.... ALSO check to see if you have a good amount of spark, take a plug out and put it in the plug wire and hold it as close as you can to bare metal like on the cyl nut and kick it a bunch of times (easy to see the spark when its darker out or in the shade) Now go check :beer:

I run the bajas and i love them, there pretty light and strong as f*ck, have took a beating from me over 2 years and there just as round as the day i bought them. The best part is there cheep as hell to pick up with many offsets to choose from. :thumbsup: Couple pics of them for the hell of it!!! http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c164/sav...goodride001.jpg http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c164/sav...mthedeck002.jpg http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c164/sav...Tlookout019.jpg

So wheres all the pics you dirty whores

Looks great for sure. Im interested no doubts. Good job. :thumbsup:

I got my black Lakers for pretty cheep last summer. :thumbsup:

If it was running properly before, then exact same jets you were running :thumbsup:

Damn rights bro, i told you heat is your best friend in ANY situation with a dirty cock-a-roach of a stuck bolt or stud. 20ftlbs will be enough for the studs. Make sure your using a torque wrench that you know is calibrated properly though and of a good quality, just so you know its torquing to what you want it to be. :beer:

Your gay

Yes pb blaster from any auto parts store, let it soak in for a lil while though. You NEED too get the studs almost red HOT with a blow torch man one at a time...like i said above, they will come out like nobody's business right away. Also use the box end of the wrench and a breaker bar on the end if needed, but you wont if you get them nice and HOT Yes you should have got a noss, i love mine and it went on in 10 minutes no fuss. Let me know how it works out.

Spray PB Blaster on every stud and let soak in for a lil while. Then take a blow torch and heat the studs hot, one at a time and do the 2 nut trick and they will come out like cake. Also its much easier to undo them what the cyls are bolted to the case. Im sure you have them bolted down but im just saying. Heat is the best way. I assume its a Pro Design head? :beer:

Good lookin out rod. i read that to fast i guess.

You use FUEL LINE from the tanks petcock to the carbs brass inlets. :ermm: Its gravity fed. Turn the pet cock on when fuel lines are hooked up and gas will flow through the hoses into the carbs. Tors removal >>> http://www.farmandsandtoys.com/partdetail.asp?partid=123 Fuel lines>>> http://www.farmandsandtoys.com/partdetail.asp?partid=352 Give Jeff at F.A.S.T a call and he will get you both those shipped quick and what ever else you need. :beer:

http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showforum=26

WOW!!! How much do you think you torqued them too, 100ftlbs? :yelrotflmao:

Yes. Counterclockwise left :laugh: How did you break it ? :ermm:

Torch will work, get it HOT though. And use something that will clamp on real tight to the stud to spin it out. :beer: How the hell did you break it off in the first place man?

Do it with red lock tight and the proper way i said and there's no way for it to come loose on you by it's self. Unless the threads are really worn out, which there probably not.

No, don't run it like that, unless you want to redo your top end in the first 10-15 mins of riding. Just use pb blaster, let it soak in and use 2 nuts to get if off if threes enough threads for 2 to fit on, which it doesn't look like there is. If not then the heat from a torch is your friend.

Same here eric, Mine has all been tight for just over 2 years now, chrome looks like new still also, and i ride some nasty rock trails and shit here in the mountains. :beer:

Order what?

Yes blue will work, but red is whats called for you to use. Also are you tightening them properly? When i say properly i mean you install the inside nut hand tight up to the sprocket hub, then with a torque wrench, tighten that inside nut too 40ftlbs. Next install the outer nut and hand tighten it against the inside nut. Now hold the inside nut with a wrench and tighten the outside nut too 140ftlbs. NOW, hold the outside nut with a wrench and turn the inside nut backwards into the outside nut and torque that inside nut backwards into the outside nut too 177ftlbs, That's the proper way to do this as it Locks the nuts together and they will NOT come loose. If your just tightening the inside nut just enough so the axle turns then your tightening the hell outta the outside nut too the inside nut it will always come loose cause your nut "locking" them together and thats what your doing correct? :beer:

They don't! Take care of it, make sure it's jetted properly and with quality oil it will last for years. :thumbsup: