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SAVAGE420

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Everything posted by SAVAGE420

  1. You need a 10x9 RIM if you want to run the same tires you have now. Thats 10" wide and 9" tall rim. 20x11x9 TIRE is 20' tall, 11" wide and 9" tall wheels.
  2. Can you see any other o-ring grooves? If you still have trouble PM the member "Chariot Performance" on here, he makes them. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showuser=28101
  3. How small are we talkin here?
  4. Take it out and look at the #'s stamped into the side of it.
  5. Sean, if you can hold off till tomorrow i will grab a site or 2 for you.
  6. LOL, why didn't you watch a live stream of it when it was live yo?
  7. KA-BOOM ....Detonation my friend. Do a compression test on the motor with a compression gauge. THAT will tell you what fuel he needs to run...not what the dude said to run.
  8. So do you live on the moon or at the bottom of the sea? On the sun or in the arctic?lol We need to know your elevation and out side temps to tell you anything bro.
  9. Start on the middle clip then go from there. Go for a lil rip and if its starving for fuel, lower the clips one notch or so to move the needles position up. But if its boggy with to much fuel, well then raise the clips to move the needles down.
  10. Well depends on what carbs you want to get? I run 30's and i run the airbox with a K/N clamp on filter and also rockets with the thick 1-1/8 stinger tubes and they clear fine. Didn't have to change any rubber carb/airbox boots with them at all. bolt up and go. You don't "need" to get after market pipes for bigger carbs but you should anyways as that and a filter should be the very first performance mod for you to do. If you wnet with bigger carbs from 33mm and up then you will have to run filter pods or change the intake and airbox boots and move the airbox back and inch or 2. IMO, get some after market pipes for what type of riding you plan on doing.
  11. Yes i run them, there great and so do quite a few peeps. Here is a thread about them. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=114873&view=&hl=30%20mm%20okos&fromsearch=1 Theres a couple more threads also if you search
  12. MAIL BOMB
  13. SAVAGE420

    reeds

    Reed and cages, $24.95 shipped
  14. Kickem while there down. I like some dumb peeps though. Get some great laughs listening to them talk all dumb sometimes. Some peeps are just straight up dumb, stupid or ignorant, or all of the above...nothing we can do about it but laugh AND point.
  15. Sounds like a good deal you got! What he write on the box?
  16. Well you know what they say...Lean is mean and rich is a bitch
  17. Whos buyin the pipes?

  18. Thanx guys. Another here http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=120481 Come on guys if i bought or sold you somthin, speak up. Ive done about 100 deals just on here in just this last year so holla back
  19. Look good man. As long as the pedals completely cover the openings and sit flush they will work fine.
  20. Yeah look at t dammit...haha

    Damn man, whats wrong with your shit now?

  21. WD40 wont do shit, it's not a penetrating fluid. Is's (WD)water displacement! (40) is how many times it took the guy that invented it to get it right lol. Basically the main pourpose of it is to prevent corrosion from starting, but once corrosion is in there its not really good for anything. Try some PB blaster man, it just works and if you can twist the bolt any while soaking it, do that also. But if for some reason your bolt is slightly bent, you need to cut that shit out.
  22. I always went raised side up when i ran a stock head. Never leaked when torqued properly in the right sequence
  23. Soak the shit out of it with something like PB Blaster. Then bash the shit outa it with your bfh. Of that don't work, cut the bolt. Remember to drill and tap the swing arm and carrier and put a grease zerk in both so you can grease them when ever so they don't get rusted and stuck, seized in there. I did both mine few years ago so i can keep them all well lubed up and now the bolt and bearings come out by hand all the time Simple to do.
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