dawarriorman

Hey, yeah, we could invent a 2 stroke diesel engine!!! We could even turbocharge it !!!___<<>>___!!! http://auto.howstuffworks.com/diesel-two-stroke.htm

They're a year and half old. Changed them when I put the chain slider on. Guess I'll go ahead and grease them suckers up then tommorrow.

Dear night, You absolutely positively CAN run diesel in your banshee. There are 2 things that you must know first. You can't run any pre-mix oil with the diesel. And secondly, it will be hard to start. You'll have to push start it, or roll it down a hill, or tow it behind a car, or something like that and then pop the clutch. Make sure you're going at least 30 mph before you pop the clutch, and that you're in 1st gear. Once you get it started, it will run like a champ.

Bump steer isn't going to change. And although Im not a big proponent of LT setups, it would be hard to find regular shocks and a-arms for a grand. If their new, and have rezzies, I say go for it.

The rear end has been creaking forever, and has lately got louder and more annoying. I always thought it had been the shock mounts, but I finally figured out it was the swingarm pivot (loosen it and the creaking stops). Retorquing it didn't work, neither did some penetrating oil. Im out of time today to mess with it anny more, have to go to work. So I was wondering if anybody else had this happen, and solved it already.

Banshee doesn't have a rev limiter for forward gears.

Spray the inside of a chrome pipe with white high temp paint and it won't turn colors. Mine still look like the day I got them.

Take the bottom off the carb, then hook it back up to the tank while holding the carb upright. When holding the floats all the way up, no gas should come out. Once you drop them to level, it should start coming out (Like he said, 21mm is spec). You can watch the valve work and tell if its bent and not closing when it should, or if is closing, but dirt is keeping it from sealing.

Something like this would work. (might be expensive). http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/banshee-WIC...1QQcmdZViewItem

I doubt it was a master key. Call the company and ask, but I'll bet they didn't have all the locks keyed for master keys. More than likely someone that you know, or a friend of theirs. Somebody that has been in it, knew what was there. And not necessarily had access to a key, but knew where one was. Hope you find the bastard (look for anybody with new stuff). And bigred, I've seen a guy that had his tent get stolen once. Funny thing was, the thieves threw everything else out, including the guys pants that had his wallet and cell phone. I camp with a rope and a tarp, and hope I can find 2 trees.

As for the wheel hitting the a-arm, the steering stop probably got bent. Just take a metal rod and a big ass hammer and bend it back. Basically just look it over carefully for any place where paint flaked off and there isn't rust yet. Thats the sign something was bent.

Preload isn't really effective at making the shocks more resistant to bottoming. Its main use is for ride height, and slight tuning for the weight of the rider. The springs on our shocks are rated in lbs per inch. I don't know for certain, but we'll say the stock spring is 180 lbs/in. If there was no preload on the spring, the first inch of shock travel would take a force of 180 lbs. To move a second inch, and additional 180 lbs is needed. And so on. When you preload the shock, you already start compressing it, so that first inch takes more force to accomplish, but each inch after still only takes an additional 180 lbs. Preload it by 2 inches, and the first inch of travel (which would be the third inch of spring compression) takes 540 lbs. Thats why it isn't effective at controlling the shock bottoming out. The preload collar moves the shock maybe 1.5 "? So yes, it takes a couple hundred lbs more to get the shock moving, but thats it, once its moving and overcome that intial force, the preload doesn't matter. Personally I had my stock shocks set as soft as they would go just to make it more comfortable on the trails. If you're only on the track, having it all the way stiff might help control body roll in the corners. Thats about all it will accomplish though. Edit: The preload collar moves it about half an inch. So at most your only adding 100 lbs or so. It might make a difference in the turns, but I doubt it. Just run it soft to keep the ride height low.

Exactly. Don't worry about what you can't control. Spend your whole life planning for the future, and you'll live your whole life planning. All those people that want to graduate, go to college, get a high paying job, blah blah blah. Fuck that, why plan your whole life out. Live life for the moment. I have old friends from high school that already have regrets about how they never let loose in college, and are starting their careers already. Shit, I've already been in school for 4 years, and won't graduate for at least another 2. But damn I've got some stories to tell.

STFU, and go away. You obviously know NOTHING about AV gas. It doesn't eat gaskets. Its gas, plain and simple. More highly refined than most gas, but its still the same.

Dude, quit wasting our time. Cannabis cup pictures. Cmon man, hurry up. I haven't smoked in weeks, alcohol isn't doing it. Give me something.

Ok, I checked out progressives site. They probably are good shocks. But, the fact that they cost more money than ANY other pair of shocks out there is enough to say no. For that price you can get the best that anybody makes, top of the line Fox evols, PEPs, Axis, TCS, elka. And all of those but the fox shocks will be valved to how you ride, with PEP, Axis and TCS doing the best job of it. Elkas are great too if you can get them valved right. While the valved for all conditions shocks can work good for all conditions, they will never be great for any one thing. And spending $1800 on a set of shocks that claims they can do it all is retarded.

Heres a third vote for FAST clutch. I don't have the engine that those 2 guys do, but Id rather pay the money now for a clutch that will last then pay later.

Exactly. If people say it makes a difference, its the placebo effect. They'll change the way they ride until they do see a difference, then say it was the cooler. In reality, the surface area of that thing is insignificant when compared to the radiator. Best it might do is a degree or 2 if placed on the line running to the radiator. Spend the money on some Water Wetter or Engine Ice. While it might not make a huge difference either, there is science on its side.

You sold a running banshee for $1600, and bought a 400ex thats not even together :shoothead: Thats stupid.

If the boots are on there tight enough that a little tug won't move them, then I wouldn't worry about. But Id still try and get them on. BTW, where did you get replacement boots from, I didn't know anybody made some.

Never heard of them.

Stock shocks are junk. Period. Any aftermarket shocks are better, and a good set of aftermarket shocks will make your quad ride better than you thought possible.

New o-ring set. O-rings can be funny, they'll look brand new, and leak on you anyways.

Sheet of aluminum from lowes + ruler + drill press. Took me a couple hours, but I like it, and it only cost $10, with enough aluminum for 3 more.

Junk. Long time ago when they first came out, the owner of the company sent a free pair to a guy from bluetraxx for evaluation. And while they do give it a little better throttle response, and slightly more half throttle power, you don't gain any power at WOT. So whats the point? If I want more power when the throttle isn't all the way open, I give it more throttle. Not spend 200 bucks on a piece of metal.