VinceDizzy

Im deciding to build another bike this winter with a Cub. Are there any advantages or dissadvantages to running a 7mm crank instead of a 4mm? I see many on this site run 4mm? Any info would be appreciated.

Doesn't kevlar also make the paddles stiffer? I should give those Extremes a try.

Thats a good idea. I use a piece of saran wrap folded several times and clamp that on.

It would be good to know what your engine mods are so I could figure if it will be even worth your while to run race fuel. Ill look up a compression chart for domes. Somebody here probably knows right off the top of their head.

Just the thickness of the wheel Red labels are thicker/more $ .190 of an inch thick Blue labels are thinner/less $ .125 of an inch thick they also got black labels "kind of the happy medium" .160 of an inch thick I have Blue lables on my shee and they are just fine. only one problem. Get Red labels if you plan on doing some major jumps, ride over tree roots, or other large debris like rocks and stuff. Or a carless rider bumping into you. These will dent and bend your Blue Labels. I was going through a sand trail and a fairly large root was in the middle of the trail This was then I had my 20X10X10's By the way. "there is not much tire between the rim and the sand." to make a long story short the rim bent bad enough that it couldnt hold air.

Something new for a change! And Cheap! 32:1 and no smoke? Thats good Later down the line tell us how it did protecting your top end and crank.

You dont like them straight from their website? CPI LINK Eliminates the middle man

Since when were synthetics bad?????????? As long as the damn oil doest have any fuckin friction modifyers its FINE. YOU DONT HAVE TO PAY $7 a quart for good oil! I agree with a previous post. Put some damn crisco in your bike see how it runs. Hey its not Synthetic.

Yes Penz 80wt90 will work just fine. I just prefer ATF: F

Keep in mind weight is the biggest concern with buying tires. Haulers are the best. 21X10X10 regular buff haulers are the best for playin and dragin. Also # of paddles depends on power. Personally i like and own 22X11X8s 8 paddle Great Straight Foward hook up but sliding isnt as easy. I also find no advatage to the gimmicky "angled" paddles that supposidly help you slide. THEY DONT. It ALL DEPENDS ON TIRE HEIGHT and WHEEL SIZE Small rim ie 8in., big tire = more tire flex, more grip, hard slidin Big rim ie 10in., smaller tire = less flex, good grip but less, slidin is good Only get Taller Haulers if your engine is packing a pretty good punch Also molded tires wil almostl always weigh a hell of a lot more than any type of haulers

Filters depend on what type of riding Typically i use Foam for Dust/Mud + Airbox K&N for Dunes W/out airbox No Toils are fine, again most are better than stock sponges

We call razorbacks a dune that comes up then goes down at about a 45 degree angle. Going straight over it will get you stuck and high centered A "witches eye" is yeah, a sink hole kind of. The terrain will look flat then a sudden drop then a sudden incline from the wind whippin around a hole. Kid ofthe shape of an eye socket. With no eye Basically a hole ya dont want to get stuck in. Anyway! I like the stockers on eBay. I dont like the wider front end of aftermarket A-Arms Wont fit in the back of the truck!

Meh, There Are Some Big Two Strokes Left. CLICK CLICK

Anytime mayne.

Just Remember TYPE F ATF!!!

How are the closures doing? By the time i end up going there there will be none left. I watched that vid from planetsand i think about how the "PMV" milkvetch that was thriving and more dunes should be opened. Down with the corrupted greens!

Yeah really!I like the the boxy plastc of the banshee. its ORIGINAL. Im surprised that Yamaha didnt rename the blaste the Craptor 200! Soon they will have a shitload of Craptors in their lineup Badger - Raptor 80 Warrior - Raptor 350 Blaster - Craptor "like" plastics The old names and plastics where fine

Long live the TWO-STROKE

Well, the simplest way is to 1) remove airbox, (im assumnig you still have this) 2) loosten carb clamps (the ones clamping the carbs to the carb boots) 3) carefully loosten the carbs from their boots (twisting, WD 40, anything to get them out without damaging anything) 4) Support the carbs away from the intake ( so you can get to the reeds without trouble) ie- an assistant, or string to hold the carbs away from the intake. You COULD remove them but its too much trouble. 5) There are 4 bolts on each boot fastening them to the cylinders. Loosten them in a criss-cross pattern. 6) now the intake should come appart in this order. A) Boots with Crossover tube b ) Reed Pyramid Cage C) Gasket 7) Now that you have the Pyramid (thay are shaped like a pyramid arent they?) Valves in hand. There are two METAL flaps that LIMIT how far the PLASTIC petals can open. Two bolts fasten each Metal flap. 8) When the bolts are removed the PLASTIC and METAL peices will come off. 9) You replace the plastic petals. 10) MAKE SURE YOU GET THE 4 BOLTS that fasten the petals and metal flaps tight! And on the correct way! You DO NOT want those bolts going in your cylinders! 11) Repeat on other Valve if desired 12) Assemble A) Gaskets on cylinders b ) Reed cages C) Boots D) 4 bolts 8 TOTAL on the boots Tighten in criss cross pattern (just get em good and tight, But dont strip em LOL E) Carbs & Clamps F) Airbox (I yanked mine off the day i bought my shee so i cant give you detailed instructions on how to remove/install the airbox 13) Voila! Done Hope that helps If anyone sees that i missed something add to it Later

No, the clamp on filters dont weigh enough to cause any damage to the rubber boots. Ive had mine ever since i got my shee in 02, and no damage to the boots yet I think the only way you can damage those things is careless removal of the carbs. But when you install the clamp ons make sure that nothing rubs against the filters. The brakets for the airbox, i ground them off cause they were rubbin. Also remember NO WATER OR MUD riding with those type filters

you beat me to it rare I'll second that for good measure.

Yeah that would be just fine if you are wiling to shell out the money. I personally use ATF type F works fine and a buck and a half a quart. That 80wt is good for many many rides, while my ATF i change every two rides. This oil debate thing has been beaten to death with an ugly stick. Oil is a personal preference thing. Later

Oh yeah, almost Anything is better than stock tires on the sand. These would work good for the dirt/sand terrain. But regular haulers or molded paddles always do the best in soft sand. I heard of people using these for dirt drags?

The craptor wasnt anything to be proud of in the first place. Tall, Slow, Heavy. It was shit in the making. This new one will be a great replacement.