RATBIKE0130

You can go bigger on cubs but your piston choices are very limited. I know the 68.25 blaster pistons will work and so will some other brand made in Germany... they are available in a 69mm bore. From there you start looking at regular cheetah pistons starting in the 72mm range.

Back off your timing, get fresh high octane gas (race gas), or buy a new head with a better head design. Or blow up your motor by running a plug lock or over tightening the plugs.

Buy a kit with the bearings. It would cost you around 20 bucks for a set anyway. If you understand what kind of load those bearings withstand you would be replacing them like you should, no need to ask. Think of it this way... would you wear someones used rubber to do your own girlfriend?

Baja Designs Website <=== Click

You need a spring compresser if your shocks do not have the threaded preload adjusters.

Calvin knows why the Cubs are making more power than the full Cheetah. He did change a few things in the molds on the Cub cylinders. He doesn't know how those minor changed made such a difference. Last time I heard from him, he was looking at revising the Cheetah specs to include the changes that he made on the Cubs.

Those are Blaster pistons as noted by the 573 cast into the bottom of the piston under the wrist pin. The largest bore those pistons come in is 68.25mm. If you find out who the original owner is I can find out a little more about those pistons.

96-97 98-2000 These have different connectors 2001-current These might have additional wiring for the brake light switchs

Every builder out there works on other builders stuff. If it's a factory cylinder or a Cheetah cylinder they were all designed by someone and a builder must check the current specs and resign to meet your goals. If you deck the cylinders base or if you throw in a stroker or long rod crankshaft... YES the piston will have a positive deck height. Just like every stroker motor made before the aftermarket cylinders came out. I'm not sure about sulfer content in avgas or race gas but it I know there have been problems with pump gas having too much sulfer content. The majority of the problems it caused was fuel gauges sticking and people having to replace their fuel level sensors in the fuel tank. The OTD price depends on what Cub motor you want to build. 65mm bore stock stroke would be around 900 for a cleaned up cylinder. Add new gaskets, longer rear studs, brass plugs for the bottom of the cylinder, and two pistons. Out the door I would say 1100. If you already have a stroker crank the price would still be about the same with the exception of the more expensive pistons. Same goes for the larger bore.

Please send pics to [email protected]

Nice response here... Banshee~ no offense dude but you don't know what your talking about. Go out to your banshee and pull both spark plug wires out and hold them next to each other and kick the bike over a few times. You will see that both plugs actually do fire at the same time. This is called a wasted spark ignition system. Just because the pistons are 180* apart and the plugs fire when one piston is close to the bottom of the stroke doesn't mean the engine will wear out any sooner. The last time I checked the stock plug wires were the same length. Man you need to suck down a couple beers and sit in an A/Ced room for a few mins.

What are you looking for? Exhaust port timing or the Exhaust systems useable rpm range?

Before you cryo treat the gears magnaflux them to be sure they are free from cracks... you might have to buy a few new gears to assemble a good set.

Sounds more like it's vapor locking.

Stock bore 64mm with a 4mm stroker crank would be 373.17 stock everything is 347.43 for a gain of 25.74cc's 66mm bore stock stroke is 369.49cc for a gain of 22.06cc's. With a stroker crank you still have all the overbores left to a point because the stroker pistons don't come in all the same sizes that the stock pistons do. Once you've bored your cylinders out to 66mm you basically have nothing left to bore. Just boring your motor out for more power is stupid.

I have a Revo... been running strong for the last 3 months of bashing. I got rid of the ezstart and installed a pull start. Really pay attention to the needle settings. Don't rely on the starting system to prime the fuel lines... blow air into the tank pressure line. Keep the airfilter clean and run good fresh fuel and it will last a long time and be reliable.

I'll be the third person to say if you can increase the RPMs that your motor is turning with the same exact setup you will go faster. If you put FMF Fatty pipes against a set of Shearers, the Shearers will be faster as long as the motor was designed for it. Its like riding your bike at 5000 rpms and then reving it out to 8000. You'll be going faster

itsaripper Are you going to tell us how this works?

Is there any interest for a RK tech custom head with custom cut 7mm stroker domes rated for 100 octane gas. Head has approx. 40 hours of use on a dune bike. I paid 350 for it. If you want other domes custom cut for stock or other stroke the site is www.2strokeheads.com I believe I was quoted 90-100 for new domes since they are CNC milled instead of cut on a lathe. I'll try to get some pictures if there is any interest.

Can you explain to me how adding reed spacers can cause the reeds to stay open longer? Please go into detail because I just can't picture how this could happen.