1000dollabill

send your pics to [email protected] i'll host and post them for ya. i'm not intrested in buying another bike, but good luck selling without pics. bill

don't fit. straight up. I'm used to shit not fitting just right, but there's no way in hell. got them all set up, no easy task. go to tighten them up, pulled them tight with channel locks so i could get the screws in, and pop, out came the threads. fuckin garbage.

the census seems to be sandstars (v blade) or 8 paddle haulers (straight blade). i'm gonna try sandstars all around for opening week at silver lake. i like 20" tires on 10" wheels. V blades are supposed to be for sliding carving, etc. straight for more bite. From what i've read doesn't really matter which cause if you use a 10" rim you're gonna slide. DON'T BUY CHEAP TIRES. i ran geckos (21-10-11) last season cause i needed paddles quick. now i'm replacing them with sandstars (20-10-11) with sandstar fronts. I don't drag at all so v-blades seemed the way to go. the geckos will most likely be cut up and used as new seat bushings etc. as for pipes i just got some pro circuits with spark arrested silencers. gonna find out how they do at silver lake again on opening weekend. i definately like them so far though. just watch here for some nice used pipes. i buy most of my parts off this site and some off ebay too. unless you're building a show bike, i'd suggest used aftermarket parts. as for break in, i'd put some hours on it before romping around the dunes. newbie to newbie, i hope this helps.

was gonna order a new swinger but they don't have any products on their webpage.

i prefer them. if you cut out the first row closest to the pegs it makes it alot easier to shift. i like my legs and ankles too much i guess.

i'd have a real hard time lettin that bike go. my buddy sold his and built a pretty nice dragster. got bored with just dragging in one small season. a lot more fun to have both. if you dont already have another dune/play bike i'd be thinking real hard.

i know sandstars are getting popular out in glamis. I'm torn between sandstars and 8 paddle haulers. both in 20-11-10. i dont drag at all really, just play, jump, etc. what am i going to be happy with?

nope 75 beans sorry. should have edited first post. not in need of the dough, but 75's a good deal.

if the coolant is getting past the impellar seal it will dump into the tranny. thus overheating. how's your coolant level? tranny fluid shouldn't look old, maybe dirty. propane torch works great for finding airleaks. but if your real low on coolant i'd check that impellar.

nice.

bough some extended j-arms off him. good guy. good communication. packaged like they were being air dropped in iraq. would deal with again. thanks troy. bill

this is looking like a post off of stuntlife. scoop up a fatty at the local burger joint, put her on the back, and try to keep the front end down.

it's never a bad idea to use two different compression testers. but 95 is real low. you could rering if it doesn't look to bad in the cylinder walls. but for ~250 beans, i'd be doing a rebuild. just saw the real question. it more than likely wont hurt anything. however you may end up pull starting her for some of the weekend. for a quick temperary fix you could prolly throw some new rings in and be alright. if it were me i'd just do a rebuild.

i've also heard of "uv baking" mine were coated when i bought it. still nice and tight.

i use crc engine bright. hose down, wait ten minutes, hit bad spots with a brush, spray off THOROUGHLY. note: not blacktop safe

take off the clutch cover, see if plastic gear behind pump is stripped. also take the pump cover off and make sure the actual impellar is still in tact. is the tranny fluid grey and runny?

somebody buy these damn things............please.

i always go up to 2nd and give it a tap into neutral. never rode a banshee that actually found neutral easily.

^^^^ this guys right. we've all done it at some time. but really you can only blame yourself in this situation. i bought my bike, first banshee, off a 17 year old. completely "rebuilt." yeah, ok. i overlooked a lot of things when i bought it. it was a basket case, probably not as bad as what you're dealing with. if it really is that fuct, you should probably cut your loses. part it out and build one the way you want. i've put some serious dough into mine, but it's worth it to me. i think i have one of the sharpest 87's around and runs like a raped ape. at the very least, you will be a way better informed buyer the next time around. i feel for ya bro. hope it all works out.

wow, that is sharp. pipes look triple chrome. if it sells for 2500 i hope he delivers it to the nearest glory hole.

just motor and this guy wants 6 grand?

you would definately be wasting your time and money. been there done that. if you do it anyway, carefull with your primer. the fusion has a lot more thinning agent in it than regular paint. so it is possible to lift the primer with the fusion. definately use a test material first. it would probably be easier to buy the color you want and sell your plastics.

that's wild. i'm sure it has a lot to do with rotating mass and mixture rates. did they say how much it cost? really intresting none the less.

still available

i put the kit on my buddys bike and a twist throttle. the cable was actually the exact length so the idle screws didn't do a whole lot. you should shave off enough that the points are completely visible and the lock nut has a flat surface to mate with.