trickedcarbine

Right on, I was hoping he would chime in. There are a few others as well that I would like to hear from. I just don't like to call shops and waste to much of their time asking them to school me on engine theory. Cam at Redline was way cool as well as John Stallworth at Jsr. Just trying to really get a deep understanding on what type of things guys are doing to cylinders to get the most from them. By the way J-madd that is one helluva stable of bikes you have.

Definitely talk to Brad at Tyson Racing. He does solid work. Plus he is a michigan guy and I am all about local business. It is nice to help the site sponsors, but us michigan folk are in a rut and it is a bonus any time I can do business in my own back yard.

Nobody familiar with this type of build. I know there used to be quite a few guys that would shave cubs from the bottom and run wsm pistons and use rtv or permatex instead of a base gasket to keep ports lower. Just trying to understand exactly what is being done and how it works.

Ahh man brooke, how are you? I seem to be in a bit of a perdicament on upgrades as well. I rebuilt the motor after I hydrolocked my motor at White Lake, and I was being nice to her till a hill climb ran my left bowl dry. So time to re do the motor. I was saving for a wild engine to run that kitty cub down, but about 1,500 in new bills killed that coffee can in the garage. Freakin bummer! But the chassis set up will definitely be re-done and some welding will be taking place in the next few weeks. I may be building some new arms, so if you are interested in a nice set of armadillo +2+1 arms let me know. Maybe a couple hundred for them and new tie rods. I think I have some extra length stainless brakelines in the garage that I would throw in. Brett

Man, it is so sick to see that our market is still providing fresh parts that WORK! No matter what your stance is on the best way to get the most overall tq/hp out of it, the new cylinder from calvin is absolutely killer. I understand that Calvin designed the cylinder to be the best suited to the "Majority" of the duner masses and that is understandable. It is just impossible to create a new cylinder every time someone finds a new riding style, and that is why it is imparitive that people on the customer end need to do the research on nailing their own combo. The way I see it, in a few more years it will be feasable to have a four stroke bottom end and an incredible top end charge, just let the fellas keep doing R&D and be patient. Not long till efi will be obtainable for every one in a box, and pipes will be even more precice then they already are. I can see the debate as to what is the best theory on how to get the serval to really shine. The thing is with the research I got from known builders , the cp cylinders fall off on top with excess compression. Wich means finding the happy spot with minimal trade off of torque for peak horse power will be a task in it self. Then there is the task of testing the carbs to find a good medium. After some calls, I understand that these cylinders don't really pull the rpm's on big carbs, and the smaller carbs are really helping the overrev. So Snop, I think you are on to something. As for the pipes, who cares! Pick your pipe for YOUR riding. Every one knows that almost every bike will pull harder with a set of shearer in frames over a set of FMF's, but the actual bike's duty may be more suited for some fmf's or pc's. Me personally, the shearers make more power, but at the cost of bottom end as well as cylinder scuffing if ran constantly in their favored rpm range. So I personally choose Rocket, CPI, or Trinity's. Re gear the sprocket so the bike is in their power and they kill it for MY riding.Although Snop, what do you think those Trinity pipes would do on there or maybe the shearer 2 to 1 pipe. Who knows, so many theories out there, but till they are tested, ran, and backed up in a repeatable result, they are just theories. I really don't think Andy has to defend his initial build either. What he did was prove just how much potential this cylinder has in it. Think about it. He practically cobbled some realatively dune friendly parts together and presto, a fairly sweet motor. We need to have an engine masters challenge, but only banshee hq version. Take the M&M serval package and work your magic. Then 30 days later meet at a known dyno for best overall average HP/Tq. Load up and hit the dunes. Get a known rider with no ties to any shop to make five passes on all the bikes. Make a chassis rule so the only variable will be the motor. Say... stock chassis and shocks to keep cost down and a plus 6 swinger. Put the same paddles and biffs on and you would one helluva close competition.

Wow! $255 for a Mattoon Machine lock up and a custom machined cover. That is a pretty good deal. Personally I run the slingshot from Driveline and it really doesn't need to be constantly adjusted if you read the directions real well. It helps you make a very solid determination as to where and how many weights to use from the get go so you really wont need to keep "tuning" the lock up.

I am not real sure you would actually gain power, very little if any. Infact, if you don't pay attention to the relation between the piston and the ports them selves there is potential to really kill the power. However, I definitley think it would up the rpm range in wich the bike makes it's power due to increased durations.

I would love to do a 485 cheetah, but those fags at trinity will never get my business again. I bought a set of pipes, paid for two day shipping, waited a month before they would give me my money back after I still had not recieved my pipes.

Calvin, thanks for being johnny on the spot. I definitely am glad you took the time to drop solid knowledge. I didn't mean for it to sound like your serval was a cub just chopped in a mill. What I meant was just how close the designs were together in design, yet how different the out put is. I am just trying to under stand exactly what is being done to the cylinders on outlaw tt/pikes peak bikes. I have briefly spoken with some pretty well known builders the concept of buying raw cast cylinders for larger stroke DM or Super Cubs, and actually cutting them down and adjusting the ports for the 4 mil. I know some builders have taken cubs and milled the base, ran no base gasket and moderate inframes and carbs for a bit more bottom, but they give up just a bit of the mega pull associated with a cub. I have seen one built and it ran, just looking for info on how they are doing it and if it is worth the effort.

Ak, not neccacarily looking for a big bore serval. I have read anything I could find.(love google) but what I am looking for is a motor with a useble power range similar to the serval, yet still put out more torque as well as upper 90's in hp. It would be similar to the motors that pikes peak builders have ran.

I'm trying to learn a little engine theory as far as tailoring after market cyiliners for my specific needs. I know that the serval is pretty much a tall cub with the bottom ripped off to essentially lower the ports for the low/mid range increase, but at the expense of a little top end. Many builders would do that early on for the trail/duners by buying say a 7mill raw cub, mill the bottom off 3 mills, and adjust the transfers a little for a 4 mil crank, then get it plated and run a set of wsm pistons with little to no base gasket. Get some domes made from Noss, and there was a bike with a good strong curve with about 90 hp and say 40ish on the tourque. So, for a midrange flat track/ice racer like me, I am thinking of taking the same concept of the serval cylinder, and using a super cub instead. I have talked to several builders about the concept, but vaguely. So I would like to buy a 72mm 7 mill cylinder raw, and have it under cut to give a deck height for a 4 mill crank. Hopefully get some where near a 192 exhaust. I would imagine that it would produce a fairly torquey bottom with a way pipey mid to top. Maybe 45 in torque around 6500 and with my rockets and 35.5 TM carbs the power would be around upper 90's. Essentially a hybrid between a serval and large cub. Anyone actually tried this and pioneered the process and found out how to wring every ounce out of a set up like this. Am I a little naieve as to how this works or am I on the right track?

Just trying to get everyone reved up for the new ice racing season. Talk about your new set up, or a new track location. Tell a bit about where you ride and lets try to get a few HQ rides in some popular areas to meet up.

I am trying to figure out what the differencee are between the different levers ASV. I even looked at their web site but it just shows "unbreakable" style on there. They have three styles that I know of. The F3, C3, and the C5. Any one know the differences between them, and were they worth it?

What we have here is just another crazy. This guy is selling a Lone Star swinger and it looks like SHIT! However it will be perfect with a ehem..... port n' polish? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Lonestar-Swing-Arm-Rounder-Carrier-Yamaha-Banshee-1-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem2c57d0716dQQitemZ190451839341QQptZMotorsQ5fATVQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

Pssssshhhh.......... Man, you know it's both! You have problably turned more left handers then anyone else on here. That front tire definitely looks spot on. Oh, I love watching that video where you just slam the door on all those 4 pokers. Then on the next one that asshole lines up sideways and thinks he has your number and you still slay the holeshot! You gotta try and get out on some open lakes this year. The small track is cool, but there is just nothing like the wide open 3rd n' 4th gear turns on ice. Plus it sounds like your bike is just hitting hard right when it is time to pull the clutch in.

Here is Marcel's site. All kinds of sweet photos as well. http://mf44.ca/en/

For the front you will always get a different answer. The key to getting the right set up is usually trial and error. I just cheated and started to call every PRO ice tire builder I could find. The biggest and most noted name I got was Marcel Fournier. He is a Canadien beast! Built more tires then almost any one. Typically he runs Bandit Pure Sports for the front and fortunately for me I had a full set laying around. They are a nice wide flat surface wich puts more stud on the ice. Just like a road race car, the larger the tire surface the better the traction. I have tried alot of front set ups now and honestly the bandit is the best for the monster ovals with fast speeds. They really let you point the bike and pull the direction you aim for. The indoor stuff is alot slower so you really can keep the stud count down up front wich is awesome on the wallet and weight. For studding I have 3 studs in each lug as well as 2 on each small side lug. I would post pix but I can't get photobucket to work with my phone. Pm me and gimme a number and I will text ya some pix if you want.

Man nos, that sure is a pretty big stud, they wont let us run anything over the standard gold pro or kold kutter. Not even the famed kanadien or MF44's. Lmao : ) Those hoosiers are pretty rad for moto x and I expect them to start coming on strong like the maxxis tires did a few years back. How do they hold the stud in the tire under say.........80mph out on the lake? The tamers used to be the claim to fame but us lake racers who get up to higher speeds tend to throw even one inch studs out of them and the shins seem to be the only tire to keep them in and seated. I think the 20 inch shins I use have a pretty good side wall as well. Just enough wrinkle for hook and yet it is firm enough to carve turns. Your set up definitely works, just not convinced that the soft moto tires would hold up out on the higher speed full power stuff. Never saw a hole shot or razr tire that won't chuck studs on a full power high speed straight and then loose knobs in 50mph turns. Touche' on the brutal dream crushing last season by the way nos.

Well, I have seen people use 2 kutters per knob, but they were all having trouble with the rear shock and using the extra cutters as a band aid. Not to mention you would be shelling out about $140 bucks for two bags of studs and that is another couple pounds of hard ware in the tires. Just go with one per knob and see if you can get it dialed. Run the 1 inch kutter as well. They will stay in and hold alot better then the shorter styles. When you install them, air the tire up till it is balooning like an oval. This will stretch the rubber so that when it is fully studded you can let the pressure out and the rubber will collapse and almost hug the threads tighter. If the bike is for left and right turns vary the cut on the head on every other stud.( ie. One going from 10 o' clock to 4 o' clock. The next 2 o' clock to 7 o' clock) For a bike running just left handed ovals, just put them all in the 10-4 o' clock position. Also if your tires happen to leak, just get them in front of a heater and put some tire slime in them. Try to do just a little amount if neccasary. Mine never leaked though. Just lemme know if you need more info for the set up.

Any pictures you have of no link rear shock set ups. My bike is for oval/ice and time has come to get real traction. The only pix I have seen lately are in the recent thread for a drag bike. Whether it is drag, sundahl, TT, or even on a posta rocket Ducati. If you got a picture of a no link set up, post that baby! Thanks, Brett

Well, it is a little more complex then just getting the height and tires. Need to get a swaybar, and make sure the actual motor set up works for the track by using different sprockets to put it in the right rpm range needed.

Just out of curiosity I looked at WCR. Their rates are pretty bad ass! http://www.w-c-r.com/PRICING.htm Not many people really know what it really is but trust me the cryo treatment is hands down the best investment in any banshee with big power. Loco, a bike like yours would definitely benifit from athe cryo process. Take a peek in the automotive racing community. There are alot of guys with parts that just don't hold up, and don't have any aftermarket options yet. But once the parts are cryoed no more worries. Check out 300below.com as well. The applications are endless.

Not off hand. I have a print out that he sent me about a year ago for shifter cart and motorcycle pricing, but I need to dig it up. I had my entire motor done for $350.00. They tried to up the price after realizing how many parts were actually in a banshee motor compared to the lil 250cc motors they usually run for the cart guys though. Should be around 150 for all the tranny parts though.

There have been several attempts on this.........not many will even get past start up. Unless a person knows any and every thing about pulse width, maping, etc., it will never work out. Guys like Matt Shearer, Kevin Gigot, John Stallworth, or Dan Hull are able to do it. But only after doing an easy hundred hours of R&D for every hour we may actually ride, maybe more. I stay in touch with the efi guys regularly so that when it does finally reach a point where you can get an actual kit that works like a KIT, I can get one asap and test. Contrary to what Dirt Dicks Magazine printed, there is no KIT readily available from JSR. But if you can make a big block fire and run right with a Mega Squirt or Motec system, you are capable of making it work. Just be prepared to spend more money and time on your bike then you do on your family.

Forget the billit for now, try sending your new gear set to 300 Below for some cryo treatment. I believe WCR has great rates on cryo treatment as well. Just not sure if they are doing it them selves or sending it out. Either way, pretty good investment. Also talked to John Stallworth today actually, and he swears by micro polishing. Just a thought.