trickedcarbine

Good luck

The slingshots are a bit heavier, but they definitely help in trails or places like hills when you want the momentum of the motor to come back. Like when guys in GNCC would add weight their flywheels to help the motor in a sense pull it self out of the hole if you chop the throttle. For me it helps a retarted amount using the added mass to come out of the turns on the ice.

Are these the specs on Calvin's web site?

That's the only solution to the big stroke is the gearing. Hoping I can make the other idea work, but if it won't then I'll bite the bullet and do a 10mm. Just really trying to avoid that.

Jim seems to think the DM could work and we talked about the heat issue which seems like it could definitely be addressed. Just a bit more cash ; )I Havnt spoke to my other builder of choice yet but he is very familiar with machining cylinders this way to get a better curve. Yeah it gives up a little bit up top but with a motor that big it's no big deal. I just would like to know if the added machine work would make the difference in the way the power just slams you. I know anything that big will have torque like a sum' bitch but when it gets to moving heat and really comes alive I need it to not be the light switch.

Yes. If your bike is currently jetted properly, you will need to go up at least a pilot size. There are a few earlier threads with guys giving out the tuning info. I only got to play with them on a KTM dirt bike...,

Awe..... E/HUG

Only down side to alky is having to purge it and a new learning curve.

What is that all about? Didn't think he was being a dick at all...

Definitely have to agree on that.The only reason I'm looking in to bore over stroke is because once I was ready to go to a builder for a 10mm serval I briefly spoke with Cam about it and he said he wouldn't be confident in it and reccomended possibly either combination from our previous conversation( decked super cub, or cheetah)

That's just it, I don't know if the DM could work, that's why I made a post. I never said it would. I was inquiring if I could do some machining to manipulate it and instead it just feels like you are pushing the 10 mil agenda down my throat. I want as much displacement as possible with out going with a big stroke. Again, just because it doesn't fit your agenda doesn't make it a retarted idea. Almost 30 posts in and not one definitive answer. That's why it's not built. The money is there, but I just wanna make sure it gets done in a way that doesn't become a catastrophe. Why is that such a problem? Original post: Just never knew exactley what the power characteristics of the DM were, hence my post. I would rather figure it out from the fellas that have one then just call a builder and waste their time. Never did I say that the DM is for me, I'm just asking if I can make it work with a good builder. All Have confirmed is I'm not making any attempt at a 10 mil build.

No! Let him ride it first. Then add the compression and timing. Poor fucker will have no control over his wallet ever again

Pretty close. I assume it's a drag bike. If it were me, I would ditch the strykers in favor of a set of normal PWK. Maybe even go a little bigger. Port your stock cages or get some VF2 or VF4 reeds. Those pipes will get the heat moving a little nicer to with some timing as well. What kind of domes are in there?

Just run a dual set up for the carbs. You seem to know exactley what your serv should make so with that in mind I'd say anything in the 28-33mm range would be great. Whatever you do, just say no to OKO's

Don't think you NEED one, but they are nice! I find for someone like you, the biggest advantage would be the ability to run way lighter springs and still not have clutch slip. All the 4 stroke guys that grab my clutch are pretty impressed with how easy it is to pull. I run the Barnett 3&3 springs in mine with an ASV lever and it is way light.

Ok. But after looking at this, not by much. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=151801#entry1314016That set of cylinders is almost untouched minus a little clean up. And here is one very well known builder who can definitely better that. Not gonna say names to steer clear of a pissing match, but you seem to like him a lot ; ) Same builder who I was speaking with about a 10 serval and he mentioned it probably wouldn't live and mentioned maybe a 485 cheetah. I just feel like there are to many people spending to much money on the cheetahs just to find out they aren't as impressed as they hoped. Just don't see why you carry the illusion that if something isn't realitive to you or what your doing that it is nonsense. Yeah if I was climbing hills or drag racing or even duning there would be a 10 mil in my bike.

No, doesn't answer my original question at all.I was asking about is if it is possible to deck them the same way cubs are done and get a similar result. I would gladly sacrifice 10 HP to get a monster curve.

Sure it does:10mm serval is 60 ft lbs. at 99 HP on pump 4mm DM is 60ft lbs+ at 110 HP race gas So not sure what type of point you're trying to make but I'm not trying to sign up for the new raptor forum! I

Gonna be at Phil's?

There are builders who definitely know the motor I want. I know that for a fact. But I want the guys with trophys doing my kind of racing doing my motor so it's right the first time. Most builders can handle almost any task on the CP Industries stuff, but some tend to shy away from the twister stuff. You would be surprised how many motors I've seen done by RDZ or A&S, FAST, HJR, even a K&T cub that were supposed to be set up for flat track and they are so high strung and come on way to hard they just blow the tires off. The only way some of those motors even stood a chance was on big half mile tracks. Don't even bother rolling them off the trailer for the short tracks. And yes these we're all supposed to be set up for oval/TT riders. So no, I don't think just because a they are more in to drag means they can't port, but it means they would probably be making more of an educated guess as to what will actually work. The point I'm making is that I just don't wanna be someone's guinea pig experiment and have to pay to do it twice.

Hmm. A few years ago Iouie was telling me he still had a couple early 78mm small blocks with he PV's. Always been on my mind. Just not to keen on having a drag guy handle my porting.

Once again..... No! However I have had several builders tell me it WILL NOT live under sustained RPM. Trails and dunes and drag racing are find but I just don't think you get the issues that are associated with the heat soak in Ice racing. You can hot lap a drag bike how many times before you have to shut it down? Then there is the riding I do where you literally hot lap the motor 20 laps and on a nice half mile track that is equivelant to 40 WFO 600' passes with barely any throttle chop to set up for the turn. You guys all seem to think that drag racing or hill climbing is the only test of a motor. When Cam, Dan Hull, John Stallworth, Mat Shearer, and Jim all say they doubt a 10 mm would last half a season in my bike, then I definitely don't think I have any business putting a 10mm together. There is one bike that runs a 10mm cub, but it doesn't have nearly the time on it like mine would and it is massively de tuned.

Maybe keep checking the for sale section till a stock set of cylinders pop up and have them sent to a builder to get ported. Hell you might even find a nice complete topend set up that you want that is done. Or maybe an aftermarket top end. Possibly a complete motor. Lots of options out there. The banshee is not dead and our aftermarket is only getting better by the day!

That last pic is Fuggin tits big red