trickedcarbine

.

^!!!!!!!

Try looking at what all the coal guys are running

Get the 4's. Like shee rider said, after buying the used set up and eventually new petals, you are spending more.

Haha! Depends who you ask....... He's got a strange emoticon fetish, but he's alright. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk - now Free

^ john has a pretty good run with this banshee stuff. Knows it pretty well and can definitely steer you in the right direction. Hell, I would bet that a motor built in Windy's garage from spare parts and left over bolt ons would be better then some dealer cobbled motor that probably won't have a warranty any way. If windy says he can et you something put together or even maybe he could make you a motor that is not only reliable but has some to fast goodies as well. It won't hurt to look in the for sale forums here, as the occasional deal pops up every now and then. I think there's a complete Cub for 2k right now.... From the right seller that could be like gold for that price. Also, you can call around to BHQ Site Sponsors and see who is able to set you up with a complete motor or who is capable/willing to deal with having your motor sent here then re working it and shipping it back. This would be probably almost as costly though and it can tend to let people get carried away. Next thing you know you have a ported 4mil when you just wanted a rebuilt stocker. I would consider this though. Since either option is gonna cost money and a considerable amount of down time, start doing a ton of reading and researching basic simple combos that guys are having great results with. Lots of hot stock stroke motors making many folks happy. Also look in to bottom end items like trans mods and welding the crank and having better bearings put on. Reliability stuff that if you do it now, it won't be coming apart for a long while.

The idea behind buying a motor from somewhere like the US is to find a complete runner minus maybe carbs and a few other parts you can take from your current motor. Ultimately, I'd be willing to bet you can find a Complete motor that needs nothing. Just swap the motor. No need to have yamaha do the rebuild. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk - now Free

There are certain phone numbers to people you could also Email that will make sure your new motor is good.

Ha DB..... OP, Actually that's a pretty clean ol' stocker.

Nice vid billy bobby....

^ no shit, right. That is hands down the best way to handle it. Then rebuild the old your self at your pace. All the while having a spare motor.

Bummer, this is why I will never buy a dirty bike and when people ask me to work on their banshees I charge extra to deal with filth. Honestly, I usually get by with an electric power washer and at the worst some simple green. For crazy tough shit, try renting an actual steam wand and mega jugs of simple green or even a caustic hazardous industrial grade cleaner. Check labels and know what you're using is fine for plastic and aluminum.

Dude....... Really? Different elevation fuel.......I've got to be honest, that just makes me feel more dumb. I call shenanigans. Please post a source and make me eat my own words though.

NO.... Inspect them in and out. Install correct jetting.

You've already entered in to the "you're fucked" contract. They gave you a rough number with a $1,000 cushion. That already means thy have no clue, when any dealer should have an actual break down. If it is just seized they are gonna just check if the crank isn't Womped out with out even splitting the cases. If it is even sort of close they will just bore/hone and slap the top end back on and send you on your way with a huge bill regardless. They already have your shit in pieces and know he odds of you coming to get it after they tore it down are slim to none. Face it, they saw a fella who didn't have a clue, and you bit. Seriously, go get your shit........ Or just expect owning your banshee to cost countless thousands at a dealer who at this point is probably just as lost. Once your bottom end lets go, and eats that new $3,000 top end they will gladly charge you 2-3k to start over again.

Dude.... Just take it apart. If you don't find anything, great. At the very minimum you will have a completely fresh motor that SHOULD last. Or, you could chance it, put it together and have a catastrophe that means you not only gotta redo the top end yet again, but probably get stuck tearing the cases open any way. You're not just looking for the piece to be floating around. You're looking for fragmented/molten aluminum in the crank bearings and the big end of the rod.

Dude! Is that ^James Vanderbeek? I used to love all those bitches on that Dawson's sluts show.

No need. Some guys used to run them to get bigger carbs to clear the shift arm, but that was before there were good manifolds all over the place like now. But they are definitely un nessacary for your stock carbs .

RobertR, I think that's his name here now. Used to be maggot shee, his serval was kinda Jim's poster child

This is the type of dude you need to get to know http://forums.everything2stroke.com/threads/47922-Suzuki-ltr-cr-500-r-MX-project

Cheese in a can to go with the troll can.

^ wow, more emoticons then windy.

Fuel injection is solved, whitebread can cover you and has a running bike that is capable of compensating for both alt and temp. Those early Gigot/JSR set ups are pretty crude as today's components weren't quite obtainable when their venture was started. On the frame, I think you are just gonna have to find a quality fabricator who is. A huge shop with a current work load. Someone who will do it on the side yet still be efficient. It won't be fast or cheap, but here is an example.... http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=162088 Then look for the one Evan did, which is also EFI. SNT did a nice job on a total front end. I helped Domestic Beotch do one that was pretty bare bones... Ours was to show how simple it could be done with minimal resources yet get a good out come.

Burgard is a top notch product for sure.

Ha, nice work DDQ. That was right over butterfuckers head.