trickedcarbine

People who don't really ride get on my bike all the time and I just tell them one or the other and it's consistant. It's from WCR and it's got some stuff I don't see on a lot of the ProMods I've seen lately. Now that Greg is a fuck stick, only trans I'll run is the Black Majic from CamATV.

1400 for anything that runs ok and is all there is an ok deal. If you got a gaggle of Misc goodies on the bike, you definitely made out

Interesting...

Above, sorry if I mis read.

Yes, even if they need a rebuild and pads. clean em up and verify that they aren't seized and definitely do fresh pads.

He doesn't have your shit at the garage sale to does he?

No shit..... It's fucking gross.

Well, if you have a set of 280's I'd suggest starting higher. If you are insistent on the 270's be easy on it. Ease..... in to the throttle in the higher RPM's after 5th or 6th. If it hesitates, chokes, or caughs, you have an issue. Don't think one more full throttle will fix it either. Also, if this guy around he neighborhood had anything to do with your 400 mains, I'd suggest not doing anything he does till looking around and making damn certain it's right. He's potentially as clueless as you.

You torched that motor with the lean jetting. The super stocks simulate porting. Those jets listed are stock. What else is done and did you even hone he jugs before the rebuild?

27.5 - 30 pilot Needle second clip from bottom 280 mains Glad YOU figured it out, but people can only come up with so many ideas. Thing is, folks told you there was an issue. Up to the guy with the bike in his hands to really look things over with a fine tooth comb. DO NOT RIDE OR START IT WITH OUT THE ABOVE JETTING Starwriter, I was jetting at 15. You should see the pile of pistons I accumulated. But it got me the right experience early. Now it's been years since I've melted a motor down due to ill tuning.

Here's a long list of stuff to check that I keep on my phone. If it's not on here, you don't have a problem. Trouble shooting list Flywheel and key (no rattles good magnetically) Stator (ohmed and tried 4 known good stators) Pick up and pick up gap (even filed nubs even) Wiring harness Un wrapped and gone through Plugs and connectors cleaned and greased New spark plugs Clipped plug wire ends where boots thread in New plug boots Ohmed and tried several known coils Coil surface grounded and cleaned w/ dielectric Harness ground cleaned up Tors/park brake/key/tps/ all deleted Disconnected the tether switch Test kill switch Swap coil Swap CDI Swap stator At the CDI harness side connector, check for continuity between the red/black wire and the black wire. You should have continuity with the key on. (or bypassed) If no continuity, there's your problem. If that checks, check between the black/white wire and the black wire. That's your kill switch. It should be open circuit for it to run. You got it. We noted and have posted many times, the typo that Clymer did in their manuals. Primary is from blade connector to blade connector and secondary is from plug wire to plug wire. Remember to remove the plug caps and test separately. They are known for failures . Remember also to unclip the wires completely from the coil and test "ONLY" the coil when you get a bad reading. Wires shit out commonly, the coil itself rarely fails. your ignition has 4 wires. cut the ignition off. the black with white stripe and red with brown stripe need to be soldered . then solder the red and brown wires so you then have 2 wires. wrap them up in electrical tape (NOT TOUCHING) then your ignition will be eliminated. the coil grounds where it mounts, and there is one on the back of the timing plate- it's the wire clamp. that is the whole engine ground. there is also one by the voltage regulator.

You mean wait till the next "Where does this clip go?" thread. I assemble in a 12x12 shed. It's more organized then most peoples garages and huge barns. Got air, parts washer, heat, led lighting, and a CLEAN bench.

Have to agree with going forward on the 450 calipers and master cylinder. The master gives you a real responsive yet progressive feel that is doable with just one or two fingers. Definitely get the right bolt to run dual SS lines. Expect to cut or remove the dust shields. The calipers will bolt directly on. Only way it will be any better is if JD starts cutting rotors for the banshee with about 3/4" of added diameter. This would really up the ante for the conversion. I keep meaning to have a set made but shit keeps happening.

A good trans should only require one or the other.

If the trans is stock and the motor is making any decent power, it already doesn't stand a chance to shift smooth under full throttle. Add the lock up and it just magnifies the problem. You definitely need actual trans work. There are basic trans mods like just milling every other dog in the gears and other bolt on goodies that replace factory stuff that really make a difference. Pro mod/stock cut Modded shift shaft Modded shift star Shift detent arm with bearing Detent spring Drum bearing mod Pancake bearing Good fresh basket and inner hub Clutch cable Clutch perch and lever It's really all a package.

Have to agree with windy on this one. This is why you should clean your fucking bench off the minute you get home from work.

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Ya, those tapes with the CM on them are super precise! Take it to someone with an actual bore gauge. You need to check the whole bore in several spots not just the top with a micrometer.

Can plug.

Those would be on over ride transmissions.

JEEZUS!

Well, looks like you guys are keepin the now bike for a while now. Just as long as he knows it's gonna cost him a lot of hard work to get a bike as quick as the old mans.

It seems that every few years guys just instantly push the boundaries and Currie Motorsports is one of those shops. They hae churned out some crazy fast stuff! This is what we need to keep the sport progressing. Awesome and glad to have you guys here.

2nd ain't bad for a brand new set up. Nice work troy. Your boys beard longer then yours yet?

This should be in a buell chassis..... Bump for bitchin stuff fo nuffinz.