trickedcarbine

Shis name is Black Majik...^ haha, sorry cam... Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Not matched for balance from the factory. Weisco is not mocking two pistons up and balancing them. If they were, they would be packaged as pairs with left and right specific markings.

There is a whole write up on clutch set up that STY spawned in the drag section. Check it out. I'll bet it answers any questions you got.

Put it back in the barn and run!

It's like an early 90's issue of Dirtwheels.

Bunny hop hole shot! And he barely let up.

With shipping back and forth plus what I'd want an hour, it wouldn't be worth paying me to restore them.

The nègrò rojo bike looks good.

Quite a few folks used to nikasil stockers at 66mm. Definitely not common anymore. As far as pulling the sleeve and nickasiling the aluminum, there just wouldn't be enough material there to keep a stable bore that wouldn't distort IMO. Be cool to try though.

Thought those were what Andy used?

shoot, didn't see this.....

I've been really been thinking of ways to crack down on weight as well. Ditch the kick assembly and set up for bump start, plastic side cover, titanium clutch push rod and any hardware can be switched inside and out of the motor, ditch the oil splash guides, machine the cutch cover. For you drag only guys ditching the radiator you can just nix the water pomp assembly. need to seal it though. There is weight to be saved by ditching the OEM flywheel and stator for a PVL, but to some the learning curve isn't worth the weight savings.

They pop up quite a bit. Just have to be patient if you want nice ones. Just hawk eye the For Sale section.

Can I come?I'll bring the hookers.

You said you went to pull the lever going down hill?

That is the typical way it works out on stock jug stuff.

Rajuncajun had one done. Look at the 521 super serval in the dyno section. He speaks about the time frame. Albeit his was done in an experimental window. Either way, a build like that isn't a wham bam turn around. Expect it to take 3-6 months

My old stock stroke HotRods back when I bought my first banshee didn't have annodized center pieces. Totally possible it's just a dinosaur.

Actually, Jeff at FAST has a nice kit that is a complete trans bearing replacement. Even has a replacement bearing for the drum. Can get you all the seals as well as the right goo to seal it up. Might as well get a set of bearings for the crank to. If you are serious and intend on getting some more HP in the future, you should just get the new trans cut. (look for pro mod trans) It would be wise to just weld the crank while you're in there if it's not done. Kill all the weak links while you're in there.

Port, timing plate, reeds, head work, exhaust, pods should be doable.

Myth for sure. Both quality Forged and Billits break just as much as one another. IMO, not worth the $300-500 difference. I've even destroyed a 4mm twister crank in one season, when in the same motor a HotRods lived for 3.

You absolutely can pull them apart similar to what you're thinking. But regardless, once split it will need to be re sealed properly with new seals as well. Drain fluids and pull top case bolts. Put the motor upside down, pull accessories off clutch and stator side. Undo retainers and nuts from bottom of case. Lift off to inspect. To be honest, it's a pain to do that way unless you have a good way to hold the motor, and everything needs to be cleaned and it's just personally easier IMO to to a full tear down. Then you get a chance to see any other funky stuff going on.

Are those WSM cranks holding up?

It's possible the clutch rod welded to the ball. Quite common when using the clutch on hill decend.

Gotta split the cases to know for sure. It's not to bad of a job really.