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trickedcarbine

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Everything posted by trickedcarbine

  1. I'd like some help, but first you need to know that I know everything.... Oh, I want it for cheap but it better be done right. I also don't wanna drive a measly fucking hour out of my day. Let alone make that trip twice because who has an hour to drop shit off then a week later pick it up! Fucking powder coaters from around the globe should be so desperate for my work that they should just call me and offer to have my stuff picked up from my house for me, all the while they pay the freight because I can't possibly be expected to pay for shipping since I'm already offering to pay next to nothing for mediocre powder any way....... ( this ^ is how you're making your self out to sound. Just FYI, nobody wants that customer. Even the guys who know they are the best.)
  2. We're talking a serious drag set up, kold Kutters aren't gonna cut it. Not even if it's a dedicated ice bike. I thought the OP was wanting studs for hard packed dirt type surface?
  3. Air screw all the way in indicates you need more pilot to work correctly
  4. Honestly never really messed with Pro-X rods. Are they really that good?
  5. Bitchin.
  6. Immediately pour drink or roll joint. Whatever you're in to. Then go to bed, DO NOT murder/mutilate/maul anyone on the way to said comfy bed.
  7. RU, after talking with a buddy in the RZ racing scene I have a quick question. Are your rods Japanese?
  8. Fuck, now this ^ just puts it all in to perspective. If you really wanna go through a solid core, that is a decent option. RU, I'll buy those Vito's rods when you get them out.
  9. If you're looking to go that route you might as well just get a cheap wang crank. Or a used Weisco or HotRods for dirt cheap. The HotRods stuff for dirtbikes seems to have a very grim past so I get your reluctance to pony up for a HotRods on your first banshee. However, as stated above the banshee cranks from them are holding up to pretty stellar output. Since you plan on changing the weak link and the used hot rods are abundant it would be the cheapest route yet still give you a solid core. As far as the Vito's cranks, you would be nuts to buy their new style to take it apart. The rods on them are quite stout. They do have a neato key set up as well. Really surprised they aren't selling the frigg out of them.
  10. Not so much that it pits the bore, but it can really gall up the aluminum from the piston and imbed it to the bore.
  11. Souththirty is spot on. I'd bet your initial culprit is a lean situation. None the less, coolant is a terribly harsh substance to have in the cylinder. At a minimum, pull it apart hone it and fresh rings if the pistons are ok. Plus whatever needs to be replaced on the head.
  12. Check out what a leak down test is and how it's done (google "leak down tester bansheehq") It's the easiest way to know for sure.
  13. Things you need to know when you call around to builders: - Know your desired ride style and power delivery - What Parts you have that will work with new build, and what you'll need - What fuel type - Budget
  14. Are the silencers stacked on one side like a sport bike? I kinda dig that.
  15. I tell every body to wait till their pipes are hot to the touch.
  16. I was gonna say cones.... But that's still a joint term. But now I'll just say both joints and exhaust cones.
  17. He just came to stir the pot to get orders moving. Now it's back to rolling and welding. Controversy sells...
  18. Jeff at Fast now carries a complete transmission bearing kit. There is also the option of using a max load on the transmission output as well. Double up clips where possible or use full circle style replacements.
  19. What fuel and plugs are ya running for the timing?
  20. Nobody cares what you like or what works for you. They just want you to accept their opinion as the gold standard and if you don't agree, they will use a toilet plunger to force the thought in to your head...
  21. No way for anything other then TT of flat track.
  22. ^ already mentioned what to stay away from.
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