trickedcarbine

Ok, thanks. No need for me to worry about it as I'm running a slingshot.

Jeff called me at 9:00 at night so that he could have my stuff sent the following morning. Cody is beginning to pick up lots of slack over there as well. Both great fellas in my book.

Ok, so when you guys speak of air gap, are you talking about the distance created when pulling the clutch lever? Curious, if I keep it as tight as possible, will that have any bearing on reaction time? I've already messed with base pressure to get a strong reaction and pulled a touch weight to make up for the aggressiveness. I've noticed a fine line between getting the bike moving and slipping vs just blazing through the clutch and slowly letting it grab. I'm not a drag guy but I have noticed some really cool stuff that helps build consistency.

None the less, mowing through this build. We went from a couple of texts to a fast450 sending me photos of this happening a few hours later. This dude has scary ambition!

Do the yfz450r Front hubs swap on to banshee spindles as well?

Depends. Typically whoever ports, is responsible for cutting domes so it's right. But seeing that there was a metal head gasket in there that shouldn't have been, it makes me wonder if someone just pieced a motor together and they are some random 4mm domes. Just put it together and measure it. It is the only way to tell what you got.

Ok, those were definitely cut by hand by someone other then Pro design.

No, the clearance will need to be machined. Just changing dome volume is affecting the big bowl area in the center of the dome and part of the flat angled cut. Are those just off the shelf Pro Design domes? If so they will be marked with a PD then whatever number. That number will be your CC volume.

That bike is not doing well on the 110. Premium should be fine in there granted it's not some monster exhaust port that is making your compression show low. Definitely agree that your main is a bit small for sure. You should be like a 320+ I'd imagine. Any way you could post a pic of the spark plugs? I bet they're probably like a cinnamon grey after running that VP a little lean. If they are wet, you should begin to check electrical.

Yeah. Just to be sure that someone wasn't using that metal head gasket as more clearance.

Right on.

http://forums.everything2stroke.com/threads/42555-How-to-do-a-squish-clearance-test

So we're clear, that's a pro design head correct? Squish test is simple. It can be done a couple different ways. Most precice way will be to cut a piece of flux core solder that is about an inch longer then the bore is wide. Bend the solder so that it is straight over each side of the wrist pin with the excess bent forward toward the exhaust side of the cylinder. Place the head on and torque it down. Roll the kick starter over till it smushes the solder. Measure it on the ends where the solder was in the bore edge where the piston meets the dome. Or the most basic way. Cut 4 pieces of flux core solder about 3 to 4 inches long. Bend them in an L shape so once the head is on, you can put it in through the spark plug hole. When you do it you check left to right over the wrist pin. Not forward and back as the piston rocks that way. So one piece through the spark plug to the left and roll the kicker over with your hand till the solder smushes. Then repeat to the right over the wrist pin. Do the same in the other cylinder.

No. Throw it out!

This is how a few of us in Michigan cope with the winter. http://youtu.be/PJaerKsAckA

There should be no need for any head gasket. It is there because some one was either lost, or they were looking for more squish and went about it in the most hillbilly way ever. Either way get it out of there! The little o rings will go between the main shell and that top plate. So mount the domes and big main shell. Then put those little o rings on each stud and seat them in the grooves on the main shell. Last, put the top plate on. Make sure to do a squish test to see what the clearance between the piston and dome is. If it's less then .045 which is possible if you get rid of that head gasket, you'll need to have the domes cut a touch deeper.

There ya go JD. If it's about cost with them, they should offer the springs and I rings as an upgrade so at least the option is there.

Plow the track......? You either wanna ride or you don't. There is a difference in those that do, and those that just talk about it.

PWM's for carbs? I like them on 250 dirt bikes, never tried them on a banshee. They decent on that kitty cub?

Problem solved. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

^ that's why I asked.

At least 7" for that cub.

Start about 7* and work from there.

Send them this link. < glad I have time before I need a set next ice season. I want some for short tracks, but have no need/want for a key and would much prefer a set of springs and O-rings. I am glad you guys noted that as I didn't see it in their description.