trickedcarbine

Really? That's a bad sum bitch for a 520 set up.

Any top end carnage/seizure and make a crank's days numbered. I'd take that all the way down to be sure. Just seals and case sealant.

RK...

That's just fine. Run that!

Is the piston below the top of the cylinder, flush or does it come out of the bore?

< needs mushrooms to enjoy that^

Perhapse a 22" rear tire with 23" fronts? 20" rear and 22" fronts at a minimum.

Keep the rear sprocket smaller for clearance and run smaller sprockets up front as well to compensate. A 13/44 is pretty fun. Not sure there are many 12 tooth front sprockets out there. But if they are that'll get the machine motivated pretty rapidly.

Driveline or Noss Machine

I had a top end go. Fixed it within 3-4 days and went to fire it and had a no start issue. Stator was culprit even though it was fine less the last ride. It even ohmed fine...

Leak down and carry on with appropriate jet changes as temp changes. For guys that ride year round, a power jet of some sort is nice.

Electrical is all good?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'm going to the shed to get you a photo of what you need to toss in the trash....

Didn't you have cut domes? If the ports are set up for that plate leave it. Maybe just have the right domes made with proper squish. PM me a number and I can help ya on the phone and get you situated with what you need to know to order domes from someone like DriveLine or Noss.

30 pilot, stock needles second from bottom clip, 360ish main to start.

Keep a stock frame and just clean off nonsense tabs. Add nice A Arms and shocks and I bet you'll be stoked at how much better then stock it is.

Alright, every time I post this it seems to slow down the electrical threads. So here goes. Start with the most simple and cheap. Trouble shooting list: -Flywheel (no rattles good magnetically) -Flywheel key ( not sheared off or not advanced key with extra timing on plate) -Stator (ohmed and tried another good working stator of known working bike?) -Pick up and pick up gap (don't be afraid to file nubs) -Wiring harness Un wrapped and gone through -Connectors cleaned and greased -New spark plugs -Clipped plug wire ends where boots thread in -New plug boots -Ohmed and tried known coil -Coil surface grounded and cleaned w/ dielectric -Harness ground cleaned up -Tors/park brake/key/tps/ all deleted properly -Disconnected the tether switch -Test kill switch -Swap coil -Swap CDI -Swap stator Random stuff from electrical FAQ: At the CDI harness side connector, check for continuity between the red/black wire and the black wire. You should have continuity with the key on. (or bypassed) If no continuity, there's your problem. If that checks, check between the black/white wire and the black wire. That's your kill switch. It should be open circuit for it to run. You got it. We noted and have posted many times, the typo that Clymer did in their manuals. Primary is from blade connector to blade connector and secondary is from plug wire to plug wire. Remember to remove the plug caps and test separately. They are known for failures . Remember also to unclip the wires completely from the coil and test "ONLY" the coil when you get a bad reading. Wires shit out commonly, the coil itself rarely fails. your ignition has 4 wires. cut the ignition off. the black with white stripe and red with brown stripe need to be soldered . then solder the red and brown wires so you then have 2 wires. wrap them up in electrical tape (NOT TOUCHING) then your ignition will be eliminated. the coil grounds where it mounts, and there is one on the back of the timing plate- it's the wire clamp. that is the whole engine ground. there is also one by the voltage regulator.

Still in one piece and for sale.... Poor bastard doesn't have time any more. Plus he wants a super moto.

Lone star and Laegers made the 250r style frames. There aren't many out there and it sounds like neither is making new ones although it comes up a lot. I just don't think they are able to get people to pay what they want so they choose to not produce them. There are a few folks that have just lopped the front end off their bikes and done them with a much more appropriate geometry. SNT did chromoly on the front end, Domestic Beotch and I cut one and re used as much as we could from stock parts but just altered placement on everything. The358banshee did a full Chromoly frame and it was tits! It just showed the reason why companies want so much money for it. Lots of work if it's done right. If you google "250r frame bansheehq", "laeger protrax bansheehq", or "Lone Star Outlaw bansheehq", I'll bet it gives you just about every thread on them here. In my opinion, if you're asking if you would need one, the answer is probably no. Any one riding serious enough would know. Now WANTING, that's different. They are worth the money if you got it and intend on riding a lot really hard. Other alternative would be to do a 450 swap. Look in the yfz hybrid section.

Most at .40!? Meh, not sure about that.... That's on the tight side.

Never heard that and am curious who and why someone would say that. So we're clear we're talking about the convex washer that came out of the stock basket. Looked about 2 1/2" wide and is about 1/4" all the way around?

Because some people are sticklers for OEM for different reasons. I'm a Billit guy after seeing a not so old OEM impeller come apart. None the less, change the impeller, bearing, and seal. It wouldn't hurt to check the clip and pin condition as well as the plastic drive gear. I've never messed with the mega impeller. You need a different pump cover plate to run them. I've also never had a problem with most other billits though. They have all been pretty good. Same goes for the OEM, they just need to be checked to verify condition.

Copper huh?

If it's more open, I'd pick something like a CPI or rocket. Got some oomph early on but will still pull some nice RPM's.