Toybreaker

nope, still don't

$$$$$ I built that engine for $1100 what would the 10mm cub cost me in 2004?

My 2nd build was a 370 long rod drag engine. 74hp with fmf pipes. 8.96 in the 1/8 mile it was a light switch. not fun to ride unless I was at the drag strip or running olds/brawley slide/ the wall.... If I was smart I would have put that engine in the spare LT250R chassis i had with OOF pipes. this build is a 4mm either serval or Driveline cylinders

Or you're retarded like me and do the porting yourself (by measuring the port values on a set of cylinders that ran great and copying them) and save yourself a ton of cash. and also copy the other bikes set up as a baseline and go from there. Raptors ride really nice and have reverse. 450's go pretty good stock and don't have reverse (Except the Kawasaki 450) Banshee's when properly set up haul ass and leave you with a stupid grin for hours.... Up to you. you buy a banshee and once it gets good pipes and is jetted properly you won't leave it like that. then you go down the 10-12k road. I have $3500 into my suspension, about to build the 5th engine for it.... I don't want to think about how much money I have into this bike at this point.

Nice! I want a 3 window with a rumble seat. Old school, flatty, 3 strombergs, Merc trans and 2 speed rearend on wire wheels

Lots of sand plants down south. Security at the sand plants are sneaky now, and if you aren't smart you get hemmed up by the staties.

no where legal..... Lots of private land south of vineland, if you know people you can ride.... otherwise they call the police.

elevation, temp, air box lid/no lid, filter, oil premix ratio all play into jetting. What does the instructions say? if you bought em used what does the website say? great place to start.... I have FMF's, VF2's, K&N, 32:1 927, with stock carbs 270 mains, 27.5 pilots, toomey needle 2 notches from the bottom. It was just slightly rich last time I did a plug chop. 1000 ft elevation @ 71*

If you decide to break the motor down I would like a crack at the serval, pistons, intakes and head

2 strokes are stupid simple to assemble. If you have done any 4 stroke builds a banshee will be a piece of cake to assemble. A cub is a peaky engine to build, what do you plan on doing with it? trails and just fun riding with a little drag racing thrown in, a serval would be better. on the pipe all the time? Cub is the a much better fit for that riding. Getting close to winter project time for me, My bike will be torn down rather soon, debating on whether to rebuild the engine that is in the chassis, or go with the spare bottom end. Going to build both eventually, since my wife has a banshee as well and the engine has not been open in 14 years.... 64.25mm bore no porting stock original crank t-5's and boysen rad valves, uncut fenders (really nice ones at that)

You can run 87 if the compression is set right. figure out who is going to be your "builder" even if you assemble it. ask the builder what he recommends, then do it. If you are totally honest with what you want out of it, the builder will do his best to get you what you want.

For a cub to run "right" it needs much bigger carbs ( that means intakes too) stock reeds are going to choke it it breathes much better so pipes are a good idea and a cool head with large bore domes. To do it right will not be cheap. looking at a 4mm serval build myself. Luckily I already have the crank, intakes and carbs

Thanks for the photos. Going to go with a serval...

are the rods h beam or I beam? I designed a set of h beam offset length for a 7mm and 4mm crank. My thinking was to be able to use stock pistons (stock or long rod versions) and not need to change port configuration for the stroke change. I just never made the time to actually machine them.

I am pretty sure I can get them out without breaking them. even if I do break 1 or 2 I have a bridgeport mill so drilling it out correctly won't be an issue.

I would have to look up the grade, stuff that is used in virginia and seawolf class submarines 6 feet of 1", 3.5 feet of 2.5"

awesome, thank you. I'll get back with you after i get off work.

Not if I get some pictures of the cylinders that look good today

post or message me pictures of the bores / transfers etc please.

reading that is/was 30 minutes of my life I won't get back.... pics or your thread is useless.

Is it bad that i have enough Ti stock in my barn to make all this? Just need a lathe that can cut metric threads.

I will, thanks.

grade 8 or the improved arp stainless version.