Stinger

Yes, if you slot the lower hole in the a arms you should be able to get away with that...

No, it says right on that page that the LM-1 is $349 (and it's cheaper when not direct from Innovate). That gives you the meter, sensor, cables, etc...everything you need to read and datalog the a/f ratio.

JB weld it...as long as it just cracked the ear off, not damage the cylinder/water jacket, etc. I'm serious...

Sounds like it's a good thing you DON'T carry a gun...it would have caused more trouble and might have got someone shot...

Won't an Innovate LM-1 work on 2 strokes? I've got one for tuning my turbo cars and I'm pretty sure I've heard of people using them on 2 strokes as well?? http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/products/lm1.php

Typically, companies that only sell items in bulk will offer samples to interested people. They can't expect you to buy a large amount of something without every putting your hands on it or trying it. I've got free high temp plugs for powdercoating, free powder for PC'ing, etc... The fact that they sent it next day is nice though...that's for sure. I just found some clear high temp hose that is cheap as hell online...I thought about ordering some for my radiator but decided I didn't want green hoses on my blue bike...I did get some overflow lines though (fuel proof).

Mine is 2.5lbs...

My rear swingarm is bent and I figure I might as well get something that looks nicer at the least (powdercoated stocker) and performs better would be a plus (shortened swinger). If anyone has anything that may fit the bill, post here or PM. Pictures are pretty much a must. Thanks.

No way to "easily" lower it except for getting shorter front tires...anything can be done with a welder though. You can't even tell it's any higher...matter of fact I forgot all about it until you just mentioned it.

I just got done porting my cylinders (Jeff at FAST is finishing up the transfers) and I need to get some new jets. I know I'll need to go bigger on the mains and I assume I'll need to adjust the pilots as well. I'd like some confirmation as to whether that is a good assumption or not before ordering some though. Thanks. Racelogice Stage III porting (plus a little more), stock carbs, fatties, etc...

I got my complete Wiseco top end set from "sledpartsguy" on ebay for 139 bux...that's gaskets and all, not just pistons. I think the pistons/rings by themselves are like 125.

What the hell, did you throw yours away or something?

The exhaust gets wider as it gets to the top, even though in my pics it looks like the widest part is centered on the port (because I can't take a pic straight at the port). Here is a pic of the actual exhaust shape:

Exhaust Port Height: I got 1.127" or 28.6mm to the top of the exhaust port. I plan to raise the transfers 2.5-3mm from stock as well. Main Jets: The biggest mains I have on hand are 380's. Think I'll need to go bigger than that? I assume I'll also need to change the pilots correct? Tranfer Tunnels: I've done some porting in the tranfer tunnels but my porting bits are too large to get it all. I just bought a smaller bit though. I will get the bridge cut more sharply than stock with a file as mentioned. Is making the tranfer tunnels larger a good idea or should I just make them smooth and be done with it? Case Porting: Also, I plan to port the case while I have it apart but I'm not sure what I should or shouldn't cut. I noticed there seems to be about a 2mm overlab where the case is smaller than the transfer tunnels. I plan to port the case so it matches up with the tranfer tunnels. Is there any other areas on the case I should modify or smooth out? Modifying Pistons: Should I modify the Wiseco Pro-Lites in any way (cut the ports larger, remove some material from the bottom of the piston, etc. to match my port job or is that not benificial? Does it compromise the structural integrity of the pistons? Power Goals/How I Use the Shee: I use my Shee for just about everything. I race MX, jump, ride trails, hillclimb, and hit the dunes. Because of this I want a good all around power, not some peaky engine that does nothing but spin or bog. A smooth powerband (not 4 stroke smooth ) would be perfect. I'm up for any/all the tips you've got. What's your tip for more top end than most $300 port jobs? Thanks everybody for the insite...

Looking at what's been said so far I don't think the stockers will be hurting me too much just yet. RaceLogic doesn't publish the timing #'s and I don't have a degree wheel to check them (Maybe I can get Jeff to do it?) but here are some pics of the port work. The exhaust port was raised about .010-.012" and the transfers will get the same unless Jeff thinks something else will work better. These two show the amount of material to be removed: These two are the semi-finished ports...I still have to bevel and smooth a bit more after it gets bored/honed. First set is a before and after comparo:

I know there is no exact amount of power at which the stock carbs won't work but I'm looking for at what point it's generally a good idea to upgrade to a larger set of carbs or you will be leaving a noticeable amount of power on the table. Since they are so expensive, I'd rather not upgrade unless it's costing me alot of power. I've got all the normal mods: Boyesen Dual Stage CF Reeds Milled Head (155psi) FMF Fatties Airbox Delete Dual K&N's and I ported it with the Race Logic Stage III kit and also raised the tranfer ports. I'm also having Jeff at F.A.S.T raise my transfer ports and such for me to gain a little over the standard porting I did. I'm thinking I'm probably "borderline" on whether I need new carbs or not. What do you think? [Edit] Porting Pics added below

Only question left is about the grooves behind the shift star...anybody know if those are normal or not?

Now that is some good info!. I checked out the brass and sure enough, it's loose on the shaft...

Head is milled but what you are seeing is an illusion. I just went and looked at the head and it's level. There was ~.030 taken off of it so there is only a lip of about .010 left all the way around and it goes all the way. I think what the pic is showing is that the chamber was slightly off center with the jug and the carbon is partially on the milled part of the head (which appears to be the "high" side if it were milled crooked).

OK, this one seems pretty simple if you think about it (I'm referring to the over-rev, not the other problem). You screwed the top screws in the picture out so far that the slides are too high to touch the idle screws on the side. That is why they don't change anything when you adjust them. What you need to do is take off the filters, look inside the carbs and adjust the top screws on the cable until the slides shut all the way (you may need to back the idle screws out so they aren't in the way). Then, start it up and adjust the screws on the side until idle is back to normal.

Sounds to me like he didn't drain it and then put in a quart...he just put in a quart to "top it off". Now it's WAY overfull and he hasn't figured out how to check it with the dipstick yet.

I tore my engine down for a re-ring and new clutch...It just keeps getting worse though. First I found the piston hitting the head just barely: New crank/bearings, pistons, and a.030 overbore should fix that. Then I pulled my shift star to modify it for easier shifting. Behind the star I found these 5 grooves: Are they "normal" or is something out of alignment? Next, I found this broken washer in the bottom of the clutch case: I think it goes on the shaft I'm holding it next to. Question is, why did it lodge itself in the gears on the clutch basket (I can see some teeth are screwed up) and where do I get a new one? What is it even called?

Well, after a couple weeks of research, I ended up getting the Panasonic P-GS35 Mini DV Camcorder. After mail in rebate it was ~375.00 and it has more zoom than any other in it's class (30x optical, 1000x digital) and best of all, it can transfer videos via USB.

Nice lookin' bike! Maybe a better question is, anybody know of a good Suzuki bike forum?

I'm wondering if anyone has an old 92-95ish RM 125 that isn't being used at the moment. Reason is, mine is being a pain in the ass and I need some assistance in getting it running correctly. I think the coil or CDI is messed up but I can't find any used ones and refuse to throw 250 bux at it just "guessing" it will fix it. Thanks.