Stinger

When I did a mud bog last year, I took an oil jug, cut it, and used duct tape to move the snorkle up under the seat farther...worked well.

I was at the X Games to see it live and let me tell you, it was even more crazy in person. Hell, even a regular back flip is WAY cooler in person than on tv. Not only was the double backflip crazy, so was the whole FMX competition, as well as Supermoto and the Rally cars...I'm going back next year for sure!

I'd like to know as well...I saw a guy riding a YFZ450 down 9th street in Salina KS a few weeks ago...had street legal tires and a full size car tag hanging off the grab bar. No blinkers or anything though. Makes me think at least KS might have some pretty easy steps to register a quad for the street.

If you want to mod your frame (for whatever reason) to use the 450 shocks, just move the mounting pad up 1.25" and weld it back together...it's no rocket science.

Yes, it's alot harder to turn, tries to rip out of your hands when you hit a rock or rut with one tire, etc. A steering stabilizer is almost manditory with the flipped wheels. I also broke my upper arms jumping with my wheels flipped around...didn't even go as high as I had before with the wheels stock.

As stated, I'm looking for some stock foot pegs. Mine are bent and I can't get them to straighten out. Let me know if you have any that aren't bent, along with the price you want for them. I'll need a picture of them to verify condition. Thanks.

Hell, I cut 3 or 4 coils off of my springs before it was soft enough that it wouldn't hurt my thumb. Been working great for 2 years...

Glad we could help!

Those aren't the ports we'd need to look at anyway...we need to see inside the cylinder itself.

No oil on the outerwear

I just dip them in and install them...at least that's how I did it on my CR125. It doesn't say to soak them in the service manual, just dip them. On the Banshee it was a 6 month build so I had all the time in the world to wait around for them to soak. Both clutches work fine.

I'm running the Stage III templates, did a few small things to the jugs besides that (ported the transfers as mentioned in the RL instruction manual) as well as changed the shape of the exhaust port slightly, I don't have the right pipes for the port yet (Fatties) but let me tell you what, this SOB rips! I can't wait to get some CPI's for it and bigger carbs. Oh, I have probably 20 or more pics of the process as well, before, after, during, etc....in case somebody would like to see them.

I don't wear one when quading because that doesn't hurt my back, I most certainly wear one when doing MX on my CR125...without it I could hardly walk for a couple days after 3-4 hours of practice racing, I nearly gave up MX because of it...didn't want to be a cripple when I got older. Now, with the belt, my back doesn't hurt at all...not even fatigued after 3-4 hours....

Thanks, I should have it DL'd by tomorrow!

hell man, that's pump gas friendly compression...I had that with 21cc domes before I ported it...now I'm at 155-157 with 20cc domes...+4 timing and 91 octane...runs great.

I don't know who told you they are junk but they are great pistons, some of the best you can get...run em.

My Bro's 250R bottomed out on a jump and ripped the hose that goes to the rear shock reservoir. It leaked oil (and nitrogen) all over. Now the problem is, how do we go about refilling the shock/rezzy with the appropriate amount of each? Where do we get the Nitrogen? I have no clue about this since I've never dealt with such an odd problem!

I bet woody did :yelrotflmao:

Well, I don't know what the deal was. I pulled the head, inspected all the orings, didn't see anything wrong so I put it all back together with a new plug (again) in the non-firing side...now all is well??? On a positive note, the 20cc dome got me right back to where I wanted to be compression wise: 155psi.

I checked for spark, when I kick it over with the plug removed it's firing, it's also firing when I'm blasting around...just not at idle or part throttle. Tors is long gone.

I just installed my NOSS head and it took me over an hour to get it to start after the head swap. When I finally got it started (after kicking the shit out of it, new plugs, checking spark, etc.) it was running on only one cylinder. I changed that non-sparking plug again and it made no change. The other weird thing was the engine would hold it's revs after I got off the throttle and then slowly rev back down. Idle was also way too high. I checked the throttle cable and nothing is wrong with them. What I "think" happened was even though I drained the coolant, some must have gotten into the crankcase or exhaust pipe. When I pulled the stock head I could see a little coolant on the top of the pistons and they were both sitting with the exhaust port partially open. My question is, how am I supposed to get this coolant out of the crankcase without a teardown? Will it eventually "burn out"? I took it for a short ride and it does run correctly at WOT and such...I didn't want to risk blowing a crank seal or something though so I brought it home...still firing on one hole at idle/part throttle.

Does anyone else think the +4 key and the +4 timing plate seem like too much advance?

I installed a Sanddraggon "dragontail" swinger with a roundhouse carrier. Once I got it together I noticed my brake caliper wasn't quite located correctly compared to the rotor. The rotor was about 3/16" away from the stationary pad in the caliper. This caused the rotor to just bend over when the brake pedal was pressed, instead of the rotor being squeezed between the two pads. I took the caliper spacers out that where provided by Sanddraggon and put 2 washers in their place which moved the caliper towards the center of the swinger. Now the rotor is nearly touching the stationary pad but the brakes still don't work like they should. Anybody have any clue what's going on here? All I can come up with is either the axle isn't installed all the way in (I've tried to get it in farther with no luck) or the spacers are the wrong size. I can post pics of anything you want if it will help...just let me know what to show in the pics.

I've got a shaved stock head (.038" shave) and it gave me 155psi on my stock motor. Now I'm ported and I've only got 140psi. I want to go back to 155 or so. I don't want to run race fuel, just 91 octane pump gas. I believe my current head domes measured 20.5-21cc, it's been a few years though. My elevation is 1600 feet, I do ride at LS as well. Timing is +4 Wiseco Pro-Lites Stock Crank Ported Should I go for 20cc or 19cc domes? According to the chart on Noss' site, it looks lilke 20's may only get me another 8-10psi but 19's may be too much for pump gas. Got any Input?

Don't buy from this guy, he's a fucking rip off. He's screwed over multiple people on this forum including me. He sent me some "perfect" lonestar arms that were so fucking bent out of shape from being crashed I couldn't even install them...$350 worth of junk steel!