Stinger

TTT

??

OK, I did a compression check (I didn't have the R here to mess with until just now). The compression is 175psi when hot. What is the stock compression for a 250R? One other interesting note...all the sudden it's burning all the bulbs out of the lights??? Related or unrelated to the plug problem?

I suppose a hesitation is the best description of it, basically it does "nothing" for a split second, then goes crazy as it should.

My Shee was running great for a few months and then it slowly developed a small sputter/bog if I'm just cruising along at a low RPM and pin it (or give it any sudden throttle). It's not a bad bog, it's just enough to create a small hesitation before the tires start spinning. I wasn't worried about it until I got into a few situations where I needed power "right now" and got it a half a second too late because of the hesitation... My theory is that the warmer weather lately has caused it to run a bit rich and I need to take a bit of fuel out of that area of the carb. Problem is, I don't know if I need to mess with the needle, idle circuit, or what. I know it's not a main jet problem. I'm running the stock carbs, mods in sig... Any ideas?

I've considered that it could be a plug grounding issue. I just figured a ProDesign head would create a good ground since so many people use them without issue. I suppose it could be an isolated thing though. Do the 250R's use the same flywheel puller as a Banshee? I need to pull the flywheel to see if it's got an advance key in it...

If you read what I said above, it had 200psi when I was running VP110 before the first plug failure. After I had to rebuild, I put in a stock sized dome and swapped to pump gas. Why would a 250R with a stock dome and stock timing be detonating on premium pump gas?

My step bro picked up a 250R that ran like shit but had a ton of mods (I'm still trying to figure out what all was modded). It is supposed to run on VP110 because it's got 200 psi compression. Anyway, after I got the main jet set so it would run WOT without bogging, we checked the plug and it was rich but I was ok with that for now. After about 2 hours of riding the spark plugs ground strap broke off and pounded itself around inside the combustion chamber...time for a rebuild. Jetted it one size leaner, out in a stock size dome, went for another ride. Got about 1.5 gallons of VP through it and it ran out of gas. Swapped in some Premium pump gas and went for a spin. Ran good, no odd noises or anything. After about another 2 hours of riding it started sputtering. Pulled the plug to find the gap at about .060" because the electrode had apparently burned away so it's now nearly level with the ceramic part of the plug. I figured it had to be detonating because of the pump gas. Pulled the side cover to see if the timing was advanced...doesn't look like it. Compression is stock, timing is stock (I think), port work is very minor. What the hell is wrong with this thing? It is KILLING every plug I put in it??? Pics:

Does anyone want me to write up a tutorial on how to do this? I've got pics and such from when I did it and could write up a tutorial pretty quick (just like my YFZ450 Shox how-to in the supension forum).

Anyone want to measure their stock suspended Banshee as mentioned in the above post???

This is actually for a TRX250R I'm tuning for my brother... I know exactly what size jet I need. One that is .059" in diameter. I don't want to buy a dozen jets and guess. I'll contact the above places since no one seems to know how to convert the jet sizes to inches. If that doesn't work, I'll order a small jet and drill it out to the correct size...

Check eBay, I see them on there all the time...that's where I got mine for 15 bux...

I know it's huge, that's why I need to go smaller. Only problem is, I don't know what the hell the sizes mean in terms of real measurements.

Well, I just went and measured how far my arms droop when all the weight is off the bike. I pulled up on the bumper until there was no weight on the shee's front end, then measured from the ground to the bottom of the frame on the front. I got 13 3/4". Anyone with a stock suspension Banshee care to do the same for comparison purposes?

I've got a Keihen PWK carb I'm trying to tune. I know I need a .059" jet but Keihen doesn't rate their jets in inches. What the hell dimension are they using? The one I have in the carb now is a "178" which measures ~.063 inches. Anybody know what the conversion from the jet size to inches is? Stinger

I can't read what's on the pics...too small...

No, there isn't. I also verified that there is not sufficient clearance to move the lower mount out and clear the upper arm...

I don't think the spring will clear the stock upper arm if you move the lower shock mount out 1"...

OK, as requested, I did a how to article for this...here is the link: http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=47969

At the request of some fellow members, I'm putting together this how to: Here is what we will be working with: As you can see, the YFZ shock is larger in every dimension. The most critical dimension for this swap is the length. The YFZ shock is 1 3/4" longer than the stock Banshee unit. This will make your Banshee sit ~1" higher when this swap is complete. For reference, here is a pic of what the stock Banshee shocks look like when installed: Before you start messing with the Banshee, I'd suggest that you loosen up the preload on the shocks as well as turn the adjusters for compression and rebound to the softest setting. This makes it easier to compress the shock. 1. Start by jacking up the Banshee so the front wheels are no longer touching. 2. Remove the upper and lower shock bolts. 3. Pull the stock shock off and grab the YFZ shock. 4. You can try to install the lower bolt in the new shock if you want to see what needs to be modified before it will work. 5. You will discover that the bolt hole in the shock is higher than the banshee hole. This means you will have to either elongate the bole in the A-arm bracket or grind down some of the material on the shock. I chose the latter. Here is a pic of the material I removed from the shock mount (marked in red): 6. Now that the shock and/or mount is modified so the bolt holes line up, you will need to create clearance between the shock mount and the inside edge of the bracket. You can either grind on the shock, grind on the mount, or bend back the material on the mount. I chose to grind the mount like this: 7. Now, check the clearance on the upper shock mount. You will see that everything appears fine. This may be true but I found it much easier to grind away some of the material on the sides of the mount to make the next step easier. Here is a pic of the grinding I did (marked in red) : 8. Now you can bolt on the lower portion of the YFZ shock. 9. Next, try to line up the upper shock/mount. You will find that you need to compress the spring nearly 2" in order to get it to slide into the mount. I found the easiest way to do this is to loosen the preload up until the adjustment nut is on the last thread. Then, once the lower bolt is installed, I stood on the upper portion of the shock until it was compressed enough to slide into the mount. 10. Once it's in the top mount, line up the bolt holes and slide the bolt through and tighten it up. You've now completed one side, it should look something like this: 11. Now, repeat steps 2 thru 10 for the other side. 12. Next, you need to turn the preload nuts back down until both the adjustment and locking nut are into the threaded portion of the shock body. Tighten the lock nut down against the adjustment nut. Your finished product should look something like this: 13. The only thing left is to go for a ride and adjust the compression (on reservoir) and rebound (on bottom of shock) to your weight, riding style, etc. Note: You may find that there is a bit of interference between the stock lower A-arm and the YFZ coil spring when the suspension is fully suspended. I chose to ignore this as it was very minor in my case. If yours has enough interference that it affects suspension travel, you will need to clearance the A-arm slightly to alleviate this problem. If you have any questions/comments/corrections, please feel free to speak up. Stinger

I'll try to get the how to and such typed up sometime this week...

I just put some on my Shee last week. It took about 1.5 hours to do the swap. I took pictures of all the things I had to change/grind/modify and considered writing up a little article to show what it takes...good idea or no?

As stated, I need a CDI for my 98 Shee and I need it ASAP. Please me with offers...thanks.

As stated, I need a CDI for a 98 Shee. I've got some Boyesen DS reeds I can trade, or I'll pay cash. PM me...

I believe 96-01 is the same...